Building an INGO knife (a WIP thread)

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  • Lagrange

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Oct 8, 2012
    252
    18
    Lagrange, IN.
    Alrighty then INGO members, its time to get this thing going.
    After fighting off the flu along with my family members I was able to get some work started on the first ever handmade INGO knife.

    To recap, the knife we are going to build is as follows;

    Hunter
    Stainless blade
    Wood handle (it was actually a draw, but I have a plan)
    8 1/2" overall length (more or less)
    with bolsters
    & a leather sheath

    So what I am going to do is try and give you as much detail as I can so that if you decide to do this yourself you can give it a shot.
    I am by no means a professional or know it all, but I have made a few knives over the past few years. I welcome any and all input. If you have ideas or suggestions feel free to post them along the way.

    Lets start with the design of the knife.
    I have (like I said) made a few knives over the past couple of years and I have developed my own method for making knives. In this post I may deviate from my normal routine so that I can share with you how you can do it at home.
    Normally I develope a pattern and transfer that to a piece of mild steel to use in future knives. In this case we are going to transfer the design directly to the blade steel and go from there.

    I designed a hunting style knife by drawing it out on a piece of printer paper.
    The design ended up being nearly 9" in overal length

    IMG_1495-1.jpg


    The next step is to cut out the design

    IMG_1499-1.jpg


    The steel we will be using is CM 154. This is a very good stainless that I use quite a bit. Normally I use CPM 154, but this is what I had at the time.

    2.jpg


    Laying the knife pattern next to the steel you will notice that the knife is longer than the steel. That's because we are going to make a partial hidden tang model. Trust me, you'll like it.

    IMG_1497.jpg


    Now we put some Gorilla glue on the steel...

    IMG_1500.jpg


    Then using my finger I smooth it out over the entire surface of the steel.
    Having done that I place the pattern on the wet glued steel and press it on and get all the air bubbles out.

    IMG_1503.jpg


    Now we have to wait until the glue dries and then we will proceed.

    Here is a picture of the handle material we will be using. It is stabilized Maple Burl. I am sure this will look really nice, and we will be using a mosaic pin to hold it on the knife.

    IMG_1508.jpg


    More later....
     

    vitamink

    Master
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    46   0   0
    Mar 19, 2010
    4,869
    119
    INDY
    I was going to post in the other thread but i'm sure this is the one where all the magic will happen. That block of wood looks really cool. Can't wait to see the process.
     

    Lagrange

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Oct 8, 2012
    252
    18
    Lagrange, IN.
    Okay, so we need to get outside and get this thing cut out.

    I use a Harbor Freight porta band saw with Milwakee bi metal blade to cut the blade rough profile.

    IMG_1535.jpg


    A wide shot of the saw. You can make one of these stands pretty easy.

    IMG_1536.jpg


    Got this far and had to change the saw blade...it was already dull but stainless steel is really hard to cut.

    IMG_1537.jpg


    Here is how I change the blade.

    IMG_1539.jpg


    Here we are...rough cut and ready to profile.

    IMG_1540.jpg


    Here is the knife sitting on the horizontal rest of my home made 2" x 72" belt grinder.

    IMG_1541.jpg


    After grinding the profile down with a worn 36 grit belt.

    IMG_1542.jpg


    This is after going over the profile with a 400 grit belt. This is as far as we go for now.

    IMG_1544.jpg


    That's it for right now. I will post more later....
     

    billyboyr6

    Expert
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    29   0   0
    Jan 28, 2010
    996
    18
    greenfield
    Excellent blade design. I too am curious about the home made belt grinder. I am stock piling some stuff to build my own. Can we see some pics of yours? I like gathering ideas from others custom work.
     

    Lagrange

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Oct 8, 2012
    252
    18
    Lagrange, IN.
    Okay...so now I will drill out three holes for the bolster pins.
    I am using a 1/8" drill bit. The pins I will be using are slightly under 1/8" but if you put your calipers on a 1/8" drill bit you will find that it is slightly under size too.
    When you do this you want to make sure that the pins are snug in the holes to ensure a good solid fit and hold when you mount your bolsters.

    Some guys use 2 pins to hold their bolsters on and that's fine. I use 3 pins in my bolsters because I feel more comfortable with it that way...it's just my preference. I make knives that I would want for myself. I want knives I can depend on and so should you.
    At any rate...I use three pins.

    IMG_1545.jpg

    IMG_1546.jpg


    There is another reason for drilling the pin holes now. I use the bolster holes to pin the blade to a small piece of wood that I use to hold the blade while I grind off the scale and smooth it out.

    IMG_1551.jpg


    This gives me something solid to hold on to and keeps my fingers from being ground off.

    IMG_1552.jpg


    I start with an 80 grit ceramic belt and then progress to a 220 grit belt and then finish with a 400 grit belt.
    A lot of people use a surface grinder to do this. A surface grinder will not only remove the scale but makes the blade perfectly flat and even.
    I dont have a lot of money as you may have guessed, so I do with what I have.

    IMG_1561.jpg


    IMG_1562.jpg


    If you have any opinions or advice, chime in and let me know. I dont have all the answers and I'm not afraid to admit it.

    More later...
     
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