Car help, 2010 Caravan turn signal?

[22rssix]

Guys,

I have a 2010 Caravan and the right rear tail light is not working. the right front works and so does the left front and rear..

I have replaced the bulb, did not fix it.

swapped the left and right sockets, right socket with bulb works on left side. The left on the right side still doesn't work.

swapped fuses for the rear lights and the left still works but the right rear doesn't.

removed the trailer wire harness kit and plugged the light socket into the factory connector. nothing again.


could a flasher relay cause this?

 

[eldirector]

If I am reading this correctly, the issue follows the socket?

 

[bocefus78]

Test the flasher relay?

Edit, just saw your last line. When mine failed, it took all flashers with it, but with electronic crap, anything is possible. Fwiw, they are cheap parts.

Since you are swapping sides I'm guessing you don't have a tester. Go to parts store, buy multi meter and relay. Multimeters are a needed tool imo.

 

[bucktowner]

Since all of the other turn signals are working, that eliminates the multi-function switch and the body control module. It sound like you've narrowed it down to a problem with the wire itself (or the connection of the wires to the socket). There may be a short in the positive wire somewhere between the junction block and the bulb. Or perhaps the ground wire is broken somewhere. I would do a continuity test from the chassis to the ground wire, to make sure you have a good ground. Then, check for 12V (intermittent, of course) on the positive side when the switch is on.

Do you have a multimeter?

If you have a copy of the service manual, or haynes manual...then the wiring diagrams would definitely be of good use.

 

[4sarge]

Similar Problem with a Dodge PU - Replaced the Plastic Module - All Good - Problem Fixed

 

[22rssix]

Similar Problem with a Dodge PU - Replaced the Plastic Module - All Good - Problem Fixed

Plastic module? The connector that the light socket plugs into?


I do not have a multi-meter. Guess I should go and get one...

 

[Brandon]

On our X5 the lights are in a socket you can remove without disconnecting any wires. Not sure how the dodge is but with ours, there is a common problem where they just stop working (one bulb at a time).

The fix we have found to work best is to add some solder to the contact points.
(Here is what we have that gave us issues)

 

[22rssix]

On our X5 the lights are in a socket you can remove without disconnecting any wires. Not sure how the dodge is but with ours, there is a common problem where they just stop working (one bulb at a time).

The fix we have found to work best is to add some solder to the contact points.
(Here is what we have that gave us issues)

I switched the sockets between the left and right rear. They pop right off of the wire harness. The working left one did not work on the right side, the right "non-working" side worked on the left side.

 

[17 squirrel]

Since all of the other turn signals are working, that eliminates the multi-function switch and the body control module. It sound like you've narrowed it down to a problem with the wire itself (or the connection of the wires to the socket). There may be a short in the positive wire somewhere between the junction block and the bulb. Or perhaps the ground wire is broken somewhere. I would do a continuity test from the chassis to the ground wire, to make sure you have a good ground. Then, check for 12V (intermittent, of course) on the positive side when the switch is on.

Do you have a multimeter?

If you have a copy of the service manual, or haynes manual...then the wiring diagrams would definitely be of good use.

It's not a short, a short in most cases would pop a fuse or continually cycle a circuit breaker in the fuse panel.. ( I'm not a dodge guy )

Like posted above,
Without a meter or DC test light, you are farting in the wind..
Get yourself a piece of test equipment and check the turn signal hot wire on the bulb that doesn't work for voltage with the turn signal on. Next check the ground for the bulb that's not working. If you have no electric at the lamp holder, trace that wire back until you find what's open and stops the flow of current the the non working bulb.

 

[bucktowner]

Could be a bad connection there at the wiring harness that the socket plugs into. Like I said, you need to test for voltage and ground.

If you don't have a multimeter, do you have a 12v test light? If you were in Bloomington, I could help you out.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Sounds like a broken connection, which is fairly common with vibration or corrosion, or wire broken inside the insulation, which is more common than you might think. You can get a decent digital multimeter for $10 some places these days, like Fry's. Another arrow in the quiver in any case. Get good with that and there's no end to what you can figure out.