Gravity most of the time to drain and to fill. Once drained I just close the two front bleeders and open the rear two until bubbles are gone and close rear. Open the front two until bubbles are gone, and then use a two handed screwdriver to hold break peddle down while I crack the rear lines first and move to the front and do the same. I then pump the peddle and use a two handed screwdriver to hold the peddle down and crack one wheel to bleed, pump peddle and repeat.What tool/vac pump do you guys use to bleed the brakes to remove the old brake fluid from your vehicle?
Do not have an air compressor.
What I use to use- harbor freight version.I have something like this. I just have a hand pump. Made the jar with the hoses in it. Works good.
And for occasional use tools, dont sweat HF. I had a 110v impact wrench that lasted 15 years. I only used it for brake jobs for our two cars, and sharpening the mower blade. I got my money's worth out of that thing.What I use to use- harbor freight version.
I made something like this out of a garden sprayer, tubing, fittings and a spare reservoir lid from Autozone. Would to the wise- clamp the lid down if it's not the screw on kind.This is the bomb
Power flush from the master down. Works well, just have to purchase the correct cap for the application.
Lemme guess? You looked something like this when the lid popped off under pressure?I made something like this out of a garden sprayer, tubing, fittings and a spare reservoir lid from Autozone. Would to the wise- clamp the lid down if it's not the screw on kind.
There was a discernable "sploosh"....but it worked pretty well.Lemme guess? You looked something like this when the lid popped off under pressure?
I made my first one, it leaked bad. This works a lot better than the one I cobbled together.I made something like this out of a garden sprayer, tubing, fittings and a spare reservoir lid from Autozone. Would to the wise- clamp the lid down if it's not the screw on kind.
I've used those in the past, but if you don't get a great seal on the nipple it's hard to tell when the air is out.
Most don't, but it should be changed at least every 5 yrs. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so it readily absorbs moisture & humidity and in Indiana with it's high humidity summers, can be a lot. This will cause rust inside the system, caliper pistons/cylinders will bind, steel brake lines rust from inside out, etc.Do you guys really change out brake fluid all that often?
True. However, as long as you don't allow the master cylinder to go dry and let air into the system you can usually leave the ABS unit alone as it only holds less than 5cc's of fluid that will eventually be exchanged with the new fluid in the system via caliper cycling.Wait until you come across traction control and require a scan tool to cycle the abs solenoids.
track cars get it at least once a year, sometimes twice. The rest every 2-3 years.Do you guys really change out brake fluid all that often?