Car Nerds: Brake Bleeder Tool

[firecadet613]

Most don't, but it should be changed at least every 5 yrs. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so it readily absorbs moisture & humidity and in Indiana with it's high humidity summers, can be a lot. This will cause rust inside the system, caliper pistons/cylinders will bind, steel brake lines rust from inside out, etc.

I try to flush the system every 3-5 years.

Good info and that explains it. It's been 20 years since I did a brake job and I can't recall the last time I put tires on a personal vehicle (company car gets them as needed - it's driven a lot more). Hell, my '20 with 182k miles still had the original brakes on it (I think 3 sets of tires though).

But, I can't think of a car I've had longer than three years... so I'm usually just oil and filter changes.

Kind of boring, as I used to enjoy wrenching...

 

[bobzilla]

Good info and that explains it. It's been 20 years since I did a brake job and I can't recall the last time I put tires on a personal vehicle (company car gets them as needed - it's driven a lot more). Hell, my '20 with 182k miles still had the original brakes on it (I think 3 sets of tires though).

But, I can't think of a car I've had longer than three years... so I'm usually just oil and filter changes.

Kind of boring, as I used to enjoy wrenching...

I've been doing the wrenching since I was 15. I still do it today on the new cars but I do tire of it sometimes.

 

[Creedmoor]

Most don't, but it should be changed at least every 5 yrs. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so it readily absorbs moisture & humidity and in Indiana with it's high humidity summers, can be a lot. This will cause rust inside the system, caliper pistons/cylinders will bind, steel brake lines rust from inside out, etc.

I try to flush the system every 3-5 years.

Dot 5 if it can be used on that motor vehicle, is silicone and is not hydroscopic.

 

[Lpherr]

True. However, as long as you don't allow the master cylinder to go dry and let air into the system you can usually leave the ABS unit alone as it only holds less than 5cc's of fluid that will eventually be exchanged with the new fluid in the system via caliper cycling.

You should only need the scan tool purge if replacing the ABS module with a new one that has never had fluid in it or the brake lines were disconnected from the valve body.

Sadly, that hasn't been the case on any of the traction control systems I've had the pleasure of bleeding. Once the bleeder is opened, it allows air to be sucked into the system, because there are two seperate lines that feed the caliper. That's what controls wheel slip, as it allows fluid to one caliper to balance traction.

Maybe different makes are set up different? Hasn't been my experience so far.

 

[firecadet613]

I've been doing the wrenching since I was 15. I still do it today on the new cars but I do tire of it sometimes.

My new cars haven't needed it, thankfully, and with the air suspension on the Ram it lifts itself up so I can easily slide under for oil changes.

Wait no, I did change out the front axle actuator for $100 vs the two hours round trip to the dealer...

Now back to the brake bleeder thread.

Good info in here!

 

[Bugzilla]

I also feel there is wear particles at the brake cylinder. I like to bleed them every so often to get fresh fluid in the cylinder. First pump of fluid out can be pretty dark at times.

 

[Lpherr]

I also feel there is wear particles at the brake cylinder. I like to bleed them every so often to get fresh fluid in the cylinder. First pump of fluid out can be pretty dark at times.

The color change comes from heat. It's good practice to do a full brake service once a year under heavy use and every other year for moderate use.

 

[xwing]

2-person bleed with no tools. Similar to gravity bleed, but much faster. One person sits in the car, and the other next to the brake caliper you want to bleed. (Usually I go passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, then drivers front.) Person 2 opens the bleed valve, person 1 presses the brake pedal, person 2 closes the valve, person 1 lets up on the pedal. Do it many times (usually 20+) from each position. And every 10 times or so, go refill the master cylinder. It's not as fast as with a brake bleeder tool, but it wastes less fluid and requires no tools other than a crescent wrench.

 

[jedi]

Thank you all for your recommendations.

I bought these 2 devices but the vacuum pump the cap was too big for my vehicle and did not want to spend more trying to buy an assortment of caps.


(This is being returned)


This worked ok with the C type boot that it came with.

Had to use bloobs of grease on on the boot to bleeder screw and boot to tubing to cup to have it hold the vacuum for 30 secs. Plus you have the hold the cup still and not move it to keep that vacuum seal steady and pump every 15 sec to keep the vacuum at 15 to 10 psi.

Overall for it being my first time I survived. Used 4 12oz bottles of DOT3 to flush all the old fluid out.

Probably only needed 3 12oz cans as as the liquid on the last wheel was coming out very clear vs the 1st two wheels where it was very dark.

Brakes feel the same as before. Meaning ha e to press thr brake pedal about 1/2 down to fully stop. Would love to only have to do 1/4 but alas it seems minivans the 1/2 mark is their design. Unsure.

 

[Leo]

It seems like the aluminum master cylinders and wheel cylinders corrode up and wear out a lot faster no matter what. I flushed the fluid twice on the wife's car, I don't know if I gained anything.

 

[gassprint1]

Thank you all for your recommendations.

I bought these 2 devices but the vacuum pump the cap was too big for my vehicle and did not want to spend more trying to buy an assortment of caps.

View attachment 355207
(This is being returned)

View attachment 355208
This worked ok with the C type boot that it came with.

Had to use bloobs of grease on on the boot to bleeder screw and boot to tubing to cup to have it hold the vacuum for 30 secs. Plus you have the hold the cup still and not move it to keep that vacuum seal steady and pump every 15 sec to keep the vacuum at 15 to 10 psi.

Overall for it being my first time I survived. Used 4 12oz bottles of DOT3 to flush all the old fluid out.

Probably only needed 3 12oz cans as as the liquid on the last wheel was coming out very clear vs the 1st two wheels where it was very dark.

Brakes feel the same as before. Meaning ha e to press thr brake pedal about 1/2 down to fully stop. Would love to only have to do 1/4 but alas it seems minivans the 1/2 mark is their design. Unsure.

Sounds like you figured it out fairly easily. I have the harbor freight 1 and i have to press hold a bleeder adapter boot on my 93 f150 4x4 also wish the fluid cups were much bigger.

 

[Lpherr]

I have one similar to the vacuum pump in second pick. Just used it two weeks ago when doing all four calipers, rotors, and pads. Bled the whole system in less than ten minutes.
If you required anything more than what comes in the kit, you might not have had it connected properly. Just a thought from using mine a few dozen times.

 

[Ark]

Overall for it being my first time I survived. Used 4 12oz bottles of DOT3 to flush all the old fluid out.

Probably only needed 3 12oz cans as as the liquid on the last wheel was coming out very clear vs the 1st two wheels where it was very dark.

Brakes feel the same as before. Meaning ha e to press thr brake pedal about 1/2 down to fully stop. Would love to only have to do 1/4 but alas it seems minivans the 1/2 mark is their design. Unsure.

If you pump the pedal up and hold pressure on it for a period of time, do you feel the pedal creep toward the floor?

I wonder if you have a tandem piston master cylinder and one of the two seals has failed.

 

[jedi]

If you pump the pedal up and hold pressure on it for a period of time, do you feel the pedal creep toward the floor?

I wonder if you have a tandem piston master cylinder and one of the two seals has failed.

Don't think so.

I had a 2005 grand caravan (GC) before this 2015 GC and both act the same in terms of the brake pedal. 1/2 down to fully brake.

I've never noticed the pedal going further down. I'll have to test that but even when I'm waiting to use the ATM I don't notice the pedal going downward.

Had a ford probe years ago and that pedal if you just pressed it a little the car would stop. Loved that level of "braking response".

Same with the Ford escape after that. 1/4 down and the car was stopped.

 

[Ark]

Don't think so.

I had a 2005 grand caravan (GC) before this 2015 GC and both act the same in terms of the brake pedal. 1/2 down to fully brake.

I've never noticed the pedal going further down. I'll have to test that but even when I'm waiting to use the ATM I don't notice the pedal going downward.

Had a ford probe years ago and that pedal if you just pressed it a little the car would stop. Loved that level of "braking response".

Same with the Ford escape after that. 1/4 down and the car was stopped.

Hmmm, could very well be, then. That is annoying, though, I like a high and firm brake pedal.