Changing grips on 1911

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  • Buckeye911

    Plinker
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    Aug 15, 2015
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    I decided to change out my grips on a Kimber Gold Match 1911 from wood to polymer. When i tried to remove the screws they would not come out easily. The result was that the collar that is threaded in the frame and the screw threads into has come out.

    I wanted to know the best way to remove the screw from the collar without damaging the threads in the frame?

    Any suggestions welcomed.

    Buckeye911
     

    VERT

    Grandmaster
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    So the bushings came out of the frame? It used a pair of robogrip pliers with little rubber covers so I didn't tear up the threads. Or you could simply replace the bushings and screws with new.
     

    partyboy6686

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    You could put a little of blue locetite on the bushing and screw it back into the frame and let it dry. Then try to unscrew the screw that holds the grips on.
     

    Buckeye911

    Plinker
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    Aug 15, 2015
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    NEW PALESTINE
    Suggestion

    You could put a little of blue locetite on the bushing and screw it back into the frame and let it dry. Then try to unscrew the screw that holds the grips on.

    I noticed one suggestion online was to use push down on the grip to try to hold the bushing in place....I tried that with no luck. I ordered new grips so I will try to use something to hold the bushing without hurting the threads.

    My next option may be to buy new bushings and screws.


    Thanks for the help.

    Buckeye911
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    Dec 7, 2011
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    I noticed one suggestion online was to use push down on the grip to try to hold the bushing in place....I tried that with no luck. I ordered new grips so I will try to use something to hold the bushing without hurting the threads.

    My next option may be to buy new bushings and screws.


    Thanks for the help.

    Buckeye911

    This is fairly common. Bushings are not expensive. If you were close I would get this taken care of for you. Easy peasy.
     

    bwframe

    Loneranger
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    Bench vice with synthetic pads or covers work too.

    Be very careful reinserting those fine threads. They cross thread and otherwise bugger up very easily.


    BTW....Is this caused by tightening the screws too much when putting the grip back on or by not doing it enough?
    The outer thread is more exposed to the elements, including your own sweat. This just happens.
    Locktite on the bushings helps, but can cause problems removing the bushings later by striping the bushing threads. That is why there are oversize bushings and taps for sale designed for this weakness.
     
    Last edited:

    bwframe

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    l_080644000_2.jpg


    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ts/1911-auto-grip-bushing-staker-prod696.aspx
     

    walt o

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    Feb 10, 2008
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    Hammond
    This is very common on Kimbers I have advised some of my customers to call KIMBER and have them send a pre paid mailing tag ,Send the gun back to them and have them fix it free of charge and postage To you.I t happens often to new Kimbers and if it is an aluminum frame if they screw it up it's on them. For the price they charge it should not happen at all

    KIMBER one of the best $750 .guns you can buy
    OH by the way the screws should bottom out on the grips not the bushings, that way the grip acts like a lock washer not the bushing
     

    mospeada

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    Sep 5, 2008
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    My gunsmith told me to tighten the screw/bushing back down and try a quick firm twist on the grip screw to "snap" the screw loose from the bushing.
     

    Drail

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    Oct 13, 2008
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    When I started working on 1911s back in the 80s removing grip screw bushings was a total pain in the butt because EVERYBODY making them staked the bushings in per the blueprint. You almost never got all 4 of them out without destroying a couple (even with the proper tool). Nobody EVER used Loc-tite on them - they were staked in REAL good. Now I hear about bushings coming out all of the time and ejectors held on with glue instead of being pinned. This is ridiculous. If these people built automobiles we'd be hearing about wheels falling off all the time cuz it just costs too much to press those lug studs down in properly. If you plan on swapping grips around have those bushings staked. Red Loc-tite will help also if you clean the frame threads thoroughly. Never overtighten the grip screws. Just snug them down.
     
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    jcj54

    Marksman
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    Aug 24, 2013
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    I have had this happen and found that as long as the grip srews are not loctited to the bushing (yes, some people have done that) I can usually use a pair of wire strippers to grab the bushing betweeh the threads and shoulder and remove the screw with no damage to the bushing.
     

    Drail

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    Good trick. The best way to keep the screws from loosening is to put an O ring under the screw. Blue Loc tite will hold them and still allow easy removal. Do not use red or green Loc tite.
     
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    Nov 23, 2012
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    Just for future reference to anyone interested. The blue Loctite would have worked to solve the problem with the original bushings. At least 99% of the time, to my experience. Clean the bushing threads and the hole they go into with acetone to degrease, apply the BLUE Loctite, and let them stand for a day to cure. Use a screwdriver that fits the slot, [if slotted], and give a quick snap to the first turn as mentioned above. Problem solved, no new parts purchased, and you're in better shape for future grip replacements.
    I do agree that Kimber should take some responsibility, as this does happen too often. Most people don't want to go through all the hassle of shipping, not having the pistol for some time, etc. though. I suggest firmly written letters to Kimber may help them see the light however, if they get enough of them. If it's not costing them in labor, or getting them a bad rap from people like us, there is no reason for them to change their process and spend that little extra in expense.
    Just my two cents worth,
    Jim
     

    Drail

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    If your bushings aren't staked just clean the threads really well (acetone) and use a drop of red Loct-tite. Just torque them down snug - don't crank on them. If you need to remove them just hold a soldering iron on the bushing for 30 seconds, and use a real bushing driver tool (Brownells) instead of a standard screwdriver and they will come out easily with no damage. A big screwdriver will swage and mangle the bushing's slot because the bushing is soft unhardened steel. A drop of blue Loc tite on the screw threads and you're done.
     
    Last edited:
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    I'm more for staking than red Loctite. I just see potential for aluminum alloy frames stealing the limited heat you get from a soldering iron, things like that. Also, as stated by others, IMO there is no need for blue Loctite on the threads of the grip screws. The grips act as a lock washer to some extent already, and you're just asking for more of the same problem by locking in the grip screws even further. Blue on the bushings is typically all you'll ever need. If I want more, I stake them, but usually only on steel framed guns. Once again, just my experience and opinion. Usually more than one way to skin a cat.
    Jim
     
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