Chevy Truck Ignition Help

[SockMonkey]

We have an '82 Chevy 1500. Lately I have been having a lot of trouble getting the key to turn in the ignition. Hammerhead has better luck than I do, but even he has trouble sometimes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[moosebag]

Mine did the same thing. Tried WD-40 a few times and it was OK for a while then started up again. Finally it locked up in the ON postilion and I couldn't shut off the truck. Had to pull the ECR fuse to stop the engine. Ended up having a new ignition switch installed $60.00. You better change it soon!

 

[The Keymaster]

There could be a couple of issues. The most likely issue is a known problem with GM ignitions of that vintage. The retainer that holds the wafers (some may call them tumblers, but that is not the correct terminology) begins to come loose. These retainers are staked in place by a machine, and it does a marginal job at best. If this is the problem the ignition cylinder will soon jam permanently. The remedy for this issue is to pull the steering wheel, remove the ignition cylinder, and re-stake the retainer, or replace the cylinder.

The second issue could be wear, either of the keys, the cylinder or both. Duplicate keys are never the same as originals, and brass keys, and brass wafers wear out over time. This would not be unusual in a 30 year vehicle. The remedy in this case would be to replace the cylinder.

 

[churchmouse]

There could be a couple of issues. The most likely issue is a known problem with GM ignitions of that vintage. The retainer that holds the wafers (some may call them tumblers, but that is not the correct terminology) begins to come loose. These retainers are staked in place by a machine, and it does a marginal job at best. If this is the problem the ignition cylinder will soon jam permanently. The remedy for this issue is to pull the steering wheel, remove the ignition cylinder, and re-stake the retainer, or replace the cylinder.

The second issue could be wear, either of the keys, the cylinder or both. Duplicate keys are never the same as originals, and brass keys, and brass wafers wear out over time. This would not be unusual in a 30 year vehicle. The remedy in this case would be to replace the cylinder.

^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^

Normal wear and tear on a vintage truck.

 

[moosebag]

Mine did the same thing. Tried WD-40 a few times and it was OK for a while then started up again. Finally it locked up in the ON postilion and I couldn't shut off the truck. Had to pull the ECR fuse to stop the engine. Ended up having a new ignition switch installed $60.00. You better change it soon!

What I said.......

 

[Hammerhead]

Correction, it's a '92.

But yes, my thought was that the ingnition or some part thereof would need to be replaced.

 

[bigworm]

you could try some graphite spray dont spray wd40 in there but otherwise an ignition is only like ten dollars and not to hard to replace unless you have a chip in the key

 

[SockMonkey]

Correction, it's a '92.

But yes, my thought was that the ingnition or some part thereof would need to be replaced.

Sorry babe, finger slip. Didn't catch it.

Thanks everyone for your input!

 

[The Keymaster]

you could try some graphite spray dont spray wd40 in there but otherwise an ignition is only like ten dollars and not to hard to replace unless you have a chip in the key

Graphite is THE WORST THING YOU CAN PUT INTO ANY LOCK! Graphite clumps together, and when it gets damp it turns to sludge, and then dries like cement. WD40 is acceptable. There are many dry lubricants that are available now that are much better.

 

[mcolford]

First try getting a new key. Had a similiar issue on my motorcycle. The new key was so much smoother to use, as the old one had worn down some.

If that doesnt work, just replace the ignition, they arent too costly, and could prevent bigger issues later on.

 

[SockMonkey]

Ok, new problem. Loud rattling in front end driver's side, stops when we press on the brakes. Took it to Midas for diagnosis, was told it was the Idler & Pitman arms. Replaced Idler arm, play in wheels is gone, noise remains. Suggestions please, besides never take it to Midas again? The also had told us they would have to drop the gear box to replace the arms, which was a lie.

 

[churchmouse]

Midas is the absolute worst place to take anything. Sounds like an issue with the caliper or loose pads. Lift the wheel with a jack (safely) and give it a spin. Is there any clunking or metallic sounds??? Grab the top of the wheel and push in towards the motor and pull back rapidly. Is there any play in the bearings. If nothing found in these checks it sounds like loose brake pads. Get that looked into. Soon.

 

[Hammerhead]

Just to update the original problem, I had to replace the lock cylinder.

And I only take a vehicle to Midas as a last resort to have them inspect or diagnose. Probably going to avoid that in the future.