Copper plated vs. jacketed

[jeager361]

I am fairly new to reloading and I have run across something that I am not sure about, so I thought I would ask you all.

I am starting to reload .45acp. I picked up some copper plated projectiles at a gun show last week. They are 230 grain. I have the Lee's 2nd edition reloading book. The book only has load data for 230 grain jacketed bullets.

My question is can I follow the suggested load data for the jacketed bullets if I am actually using plated bullets? Or, do I need to get a different book or search online for actual load data for the plated bullets?

I appreciate any input. Thanks

 

[jimbo-indy]

I have always used the data listed for jacketed bullets of the same weight and never had a problem. I have used Berry's and Rainier plated bullets with success for many years. Be sure not to push them too hard. Although it's unlikely with 45 ACP, it is possible to drive the plated bullets so hard that the plating sheds off. This usually happens above 1200 FPS which is very possible with magnum revolvers. Don't ask how I know.

 

[jwh20]

I think I'd tend to treat plated .45 more like unplated until you have a chance to test fire some and see how they perform vs. jacketed.

Generally a jacketed bullet will have a copper jacket thick enough that only the copper part interacts with the chamber/barrel. But a plated bullet will have copper thin enough that you are definitely going to be involving lead.

Usually the "selling" feature of plated is that they are cleaner than plain lead due to the copper coating, but are a lot cheaper to manufacture than jacketed bullets.

As always, load conservatively and work your way up as you see how your loads perform in the field.

 

[2in1evtime]

I have always used the data listed for jacketed bullets of the same weight and never had a problem. I have used Berry's and Rainier plated bullets with success for many years. Be sure not to push them too hard. Although it's unlikely with 45 ACP, it is possible to drive the plated bullets so hard that the plating sheds off. This usually happens above 1200 FPS which is very possible with magnum revolvers. Don't ask how I know.

aw come on and tell us how you know

 

[Robert Richardson]

I shoot the Powerbond bullets in 45acp. I load them just like jacketed bullets, no problems.

 

[bberg]

I'd go with the suggestion to load them as un-plated, look closer at their websites and they will tell you to do so.

 

[GarandTeed]

On the Berry's Bullets website, it says there is load data for plated bullets on the following powder websites:

Accurate
Western
Hodgdon

I am currently using Accurate #5 and I've found plenty of info for 9mm and .40 S&W

 

[Nelg]

As a rule of thumb I go in the middle of Lead and FMJ. Lead is too slow and FMJ is too fast.

 

[45fan]

Ive always loaded in the middle of the road for jacketed, and usually ends up just fine with the plated bullets I have used. I have recovered some 380, 45, and 9mm plated bullets I have shot, and no exposed lead in the grooves of the rifling. Loading for a hotter cartrige like a 44 mag or 357, I would err on the lighter side, and work up slowly. ( but then, that is the best way to work up any new load)

 

[DustyDawg48]

I'm probably not adding much to the mix but I also switched from jacketed to plated as a cost saving measure and load to the mid-range figures. As long as I am making power in IDPA then that is all I need. I have no desire to load up anything hotter.

I've had fantastic luck with plated 124 grain 9mm and 200 grain .45 from Berry's. I've loaded them and shot them by the thousands with great results. I've shot them in my Glocks with no issues whatsoever.