Custom II

[CTC B4Z]

ok now what...?

Whats the general procedure with this gun? I have heard guys say after x amount rounds to replace the spring or do thi, do that...

Cant I just shoot it?

 

[adam]

Go for it. Some people say break it in with ball ammo before carrying it with hollowpoints. It's around 1200 rds before changing springs IIRC.

Beautiful gun.

 

[adam]

Oh and don't press the grip safety in while trying to take the slide off the frame. A lot of people break the internal safety doing that.

 

[ISP 5353]

Shoot it a lot and enjoy it!

 

[Leo]

Nice Pistol. The 1911 design is not too picky, It's easy to keep running. Sometime next year, replace the recoil spring with a quality one from Wolf, Chip Mcormick or Wilson combat. Not much to worry about. I am told the factory magazines are not that great. I never saw one fail on the range. Chip McCormicks, Wilsons and Colt mags seem to run in everything.
Enjoy!

 

[john0286]

Shoot it til it breaks, fix it and shoot it more. Buy the stainless version next time.

 

[whocares]

I wouldnt put the money in a Kimber if I was worried about replacing springs before I even shot a single round through it.

I use Springfields and trust the quality. Yeah I just spent $200 for a trigger job because mine was getting glitchy. That only took about 2000 rounds before the seer was getting worn, lol. If I bought a brand new Kimber like this I would expect it to run hard at least 1500 rounds before any issue with springs or internals. The ball ammo is a good suggestion for initial break in, like several hundred rounds before trusting your life to JHP. Hydra shocks usually run good due to the smooth edges of the bullet, but on a tight new 1911 certain JHP with jagged type edges could get jammed up in the ramp. This is again an issue that you want to make sure wont happen when needed to fire like a carry scenario.

 

[CTC B4Z]

Awesome, thanks guys. Like I said, I wasnt even in the market, but ya hear "oh so-so's got a Kimber forsale".... And ya know how it goes. I was really wanting a PO doublestack. Happy with this though.... Ill post back if I ever get a chance to throw a couple down range

 

[wtfd661]

Shoot it, and since it seems like you don't know much about a 1911 pistol it would be a good thing to read the manual, it will give you the recommened spring changes.

http://www.kimberamerica.com/uploads/manual-download/1911Fullsize45.pdf


Enjoy it, you got a great pistol!!

 

[NHT3]

I doubt you will have any problems.. If any feed or function issue does come up try a Wilson mag

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[RBrianHarless]

Congrats on the new pistol. Kimber's are very nice.

 

[CTC B4Z]

Just shot it today. Put about 50 rounds through. Never a hiccup. Smooth as can be, no rattling, and best grouping I have ever done...

 

[Chefcook]

Just shot it today. Put about 50 rounds through. Never a hiccup. Smooth as can be, no rattling, and best grouping I have ever done...

This is a common occurrence when a guy gets his first Kimber. Same thing happened to me...

 

[CTC B4Z]

I may have my new carry piece....

 

[Tombs]

I got a stainless II a week or so ago.

To get break in started on it, I just racked the slide a bunch, broke it down, cleaned it spotless, re-oiled, racked it a bunch, broke it down, clean it, re-oil it... And so on.

After doing this for, oh around 6-7 cycles, the oil stopped having a dark tint to it and the gun feels like glass when racking the slide. Also put some very fine buffing compound on a felt patch, and buffed my feed ramp with my finger until I was happy, never let a dremel go near a new gun.

The kimber 7 round mag is nice, but I got a bunch of checkmate stainless hybrid 8 round magazines and like them a lot better. The magazine springs in those checkmates will shock you, I'd suggest letting them take set and loading/unloading them a few times before using them, because they might be a bit too stiff to feed properly until the spring sets.

Loading up hornady combat/target jacketed SWC 200gr in mine, over near-max charge of longshot with winchester primers, and this thing runs like BUTTER. That bullet, especially, is the smoothest feeding 45cal bullet I've ever encountered in my lifetime, it's FAR smoother than any JHP or regular ball ammo out there.

I'd suggest buying up some of the magazines I mentioned, doing some of the minor break in stuff I mentioned, then totally stripping the thing down part for part, degreasing/cleaning, and reassemble it with the best lube you can find. I'm partial to lucas full synthetic car oil. That way you know absolutely everything in the gun is "right." Might want to put an extremely light dot of blue loctite on the grip screw threads just as fore-sight.

If you're new to the 1911 world, round OAL/shape, magazines/magsprings, extractor tension, and internal springs are what you should keep an eye on and trouble shoot in that order if an issue ever arises.

 

[Noble Sniper]

Shoot it shoot it shoot it and say after 500 rounds get a good set of Wollf springs

 

[msd]

I got a stainless II a week or so ago.

To get break in started on it, I just racked the slide a bunch, broke it down, cleaned it spotless, re-oiled, racked it a bunch, broke it down, clean it, re-oil it... And so on.

After doing this for, oh around 6-7 cycles, the oil stopped having a dark tint to it and the gun feels like glass when racking the slide. Also put some very fine buffing compound on a felt patch, and buffed my feed ramp with my finger until I was happy, never let a dremel go near a new gun.

The kimber 7 round mag is nice, but I got a bunch of checkmate stainless hybrid 8 round magazines and like them a lot better. The magazine springs in those checkmates will shock you, I'd suggest letting them take set and loading/unloading them a few times before using them, because they might be a bit too stiff to feed properly until the spring sets.

Loading up hornady combat/target jacketed SWC 200gr in mine, over near-max charge of longshot with winchester primers, and this thing runs like BUTTER. That bullet, especially, is the smoothest feeding 45cal bullet I've ever encountered in my lifetime, it's FAR smoother than any JHP or regular ball ammo out there.

I'd suggest buying up some of the magazines I mentioned, doing some of the minor break in stuff I mentioned, then totally stripping the thing down part for part, degreasing/cleaning, and reassemble it with the best lube you can find. I'm partial to lucas full synthetic car oil. That way you know absolutely everything in the gun is "right." Might want to put an extremely light dot of blue loctite on the grip screw threads just as fore-sight.

If you're new to the 1911 world, round OAL/shape, magazines/magsprings, extractor tension, and internal springs are what you should keep an eye on and trouble shoot in that order if an issue ever arises.

Tombs, thats a really good idea on break in time. I got a couple of Kimbers that I bought and set in the safe after putting maybe 50 rds thru. Just got off track on other buys, that took me away from them. I think I'm going to try that with them since I'm laid up from surgery and cant do much for the time.
On the oil, my preference is Break Free CLP. Used it for years now, and just my trusted oil, esp for oiling the rails.