Cylinder latch on S&W, N frame.

[flightsimmer]

I have, among many others, two 10mm wheelguns.
One is a Ruger, GP-100 and the other is a S&W, N frame.

The Ruger is absolute perfection. When I push the cylinder release button, for lack of a better name, the cylinder almost falls open.

However, on the S&W I have to physically push with some force to get the cylinder to open.
I have traced the problem to the cylinder (bolt).
That is the shaft that is directly connected to the release button and pushes the spring loaded cylinder pin forward to unlock the cylinder.
It is roughly .020" too short and causes the cylinder pin to hang up on the frame.

I don't know if I can get a new, unaltered bolt to replace it with (or), find a way to extend the bolts forward movement, like with a file.

Has anyone encountered this problem and found a solution?

 

[mhs]

Did the gun ever open easily, or has it always been like this?

How badly does it hang up? Do you have other N frame Smiths to compare it to?

The most common cause of this is the extractor rod not being tight. If you're sure the problem is in back, and the gun worked correctly in the past, it likely just needs a good cleaning, or the bolt has cracked. If it's always had this problem, it may have been incorrectly fitted at the factory.

 

[flightsimmer]

Did the gun ever open easily, or has it always been like this?

How badly does it hang up? Do you have other N frame Smiths to compare it to?

The most common cause of this is the extractor rod not being tight. If you're sure the problem is in back, and the gun worked correctly in the past, it likely just needs a good cleaning, or the bolt has cracked. If it's always had this problem, it may have been incorrectly fitted at the factory.

I've checked all of the common causes but you can see that the bolt doesn't go forward far enough.

 

[mhs]

Did it ever open easily? If you take the thumbpiece off and push on the stud, does the bolt go far enough forewards?

 

[flightsimmer]

Yes, it's always been that way.
I would say that under normal curcumstances it would just be a nucense but if your speed loading it would be intolerable.

I checked the clearance on the front cylinder shaft and it was perfect so it has to be the rear.

I'll check the thumb piece.

 

[Bosshoss]

This has been a common problem on S&W revolvers lately.
First check that the center pin is flush with the end of the ejector rod when the pin is depressed all the way. This can be done with the cylinder open, just push the centerpin until flush with the boss on the ejector star and see if it is flush with the end of the rod. If it is short just take some off the end of the ejector rod until flush.
If that checks out ok then you can replace the bolt (if you can find one at Brownell's or Midway, etc.) the new one will be two long and the pin will need to be dressed down until flush with the recoil shield.
Or you can try to fix what you have.
If you disassemble the gun you will see a square flat area where the pin protrudes out of, this can be filed or dressed down so the bolt can go forward farther. I use a belt sander for this as it takes a while with a file.

A tip: when you disassemble the revolver and get ready to remove the bolt after removing the thumb latch the bolt is pushed forward by a very small spring and a plunger and these are very easy to lose.
After the thumb piece is removed push the stud that the thumbpiece attaches to to the rear all the way and push the stud out while grabbing it from the other side. While pushing it out pivot the front out first so the spring and plunger are trapped at the rear and can't go flying across the room. It can be reinstalled the same way. If you remove the rear of bolt first it is easy to launch the spring and plunger.
Good luck.

 

[flightsimmer]

This has been a common problem on S&W revolvers lately.
First check that the center pin is flush with the end of the ejector rod when the pin is depressed all the way. This can be done with the cylinder open, just push the centerpin until flush with the boss on the ejector star and see if it is flush with the end of the rod. If it is short just take some off the end of the ejector rod until flush.
If that checks out ok then you can replace the bolt (if you can find one at Brownell's or Midway, etc.) the new one will be two long and the pin will need to be dressed down until flush with the recoil shield.
Or you can try to fix what you have.
If you disassemble the gun you will see a square flat area where the pin protrudes out of, this can be filed or dressed down so the bolt can go forward farther. I use a belt sander for this as it takes a while with a file.

A tip: when you disassemble the revolver and get ready to remove the bolt after removing the thumb latch the bolt is pushed forward by a very small spring and a plunger and these are very easy to lose.
After the thumb piece is removed push the stud that the thumbpiece attaches to to the rear all the way and push the stud out while grabbing it from the other side. While pushing it out pivot the front out first so the spring and plunger are trapped at the rear and can't go flying across the room. It can be reinstalled the same way. If you remove the rear of bolt first it is easy to launch the spring and plunger.
Good luck.

I removed the thumb piece and it made no difference in the bolt travel, so any alterations will probably have to be made to the bolt itself or it may have to be replaced.

Oh, and the center pin is fine.

 

[flightsimmer]

I found new S&W gun parts at Midwest Gun Parts and they have the N frame bolt in stock for $26.70.
Total cost with tax and shipping is
$37.12. So we'll see how it turns out.
Stay tuned.

 

[flightsimmer]

The new part arrived and I put it in and low and behold I didn't' have to do any fitting. Now the cylinder opens easily.

 

[BE Mike]

The new part arrived and I put it in and low and behold I didn't' have to do any fitting. Now the cylinder opens easily.

Send the original bolt to S&W and tell them to put it where the sun don't shine!

 

[Walking Bear]

Good job always work on parts that go in the gun not the gun.

 

[04FXSTS]

I need to disassemble my "N" frame 625-8 and check it out, it is hard to open the cyl. Sounds like my problem is probably a bit of dirt in the ejector rod. It used to open fine but recently it has become difficult.
When I go to open the cyl the thumb latch goes part way foreward then gets harder to push. If you swing the cyl out then press on the pin at the center of the ejector rod there is the same problem. Goes about halfway then gets harder, have to check for dirt or burrs would be my guess after reading this thread. Jim.

 

[Leadeye]

The new part arrived and I put it in and low and behold I didn't' have to do any fitting. Now the cylinder opens easily.

I like gun stories with happy endings.