I'm just wondering, how does a gun recoil without the explosion of the charge? I didn't think that was possible...
So by your reasoning, any warning, or actually, ANYTHING in a user manual "doesn't mean anything" as long as you don't understand it or disagree with it. Those pesky facts and science just get in the way of your "truth".
Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight...
Huh?
If there is no explosion to create the recoil in the first place, what is causing the slide to move backwards and eject the snap cap? Please explain it if you know, because I really don't.
On some striker fired pistols, Glock for example, the trigger is actually "reset" as a part of the action cycling. If the slide isn't at least partially circled, the trigger stays in the rearward position. During dry fire practice, you must manually work the slide to reset the trigger for the next dry fire.
Personally I'll take this any day over having the two different trigger pulls of a SA/DA.
If there is no explosion to create the recoil in the first place, what is causing the slide to move backwards and eject the snap cap? Please explain it if you know, because I really don't.
I always keep a couple spent casings to practice my dry fire drills on my 92fs. It's probably a slim chance the firing pin will break but the manual says not to dry fire with nothing in it.
Using a spent case is purely psychological. Once a case is fired, the firing pin has deformed the primer cup and you are essentially dry firing. The only difference between your dry firing and my dry firing is you EXPECT to see brass in the chamber. I do not.
So no one has yet answered WHY a rimfire is bad to dry-fire.
Anyone?