Dillon Press - Ready to Go Blue

[Sniper 79]

Another vote for the 650.

 

[ZbornacSVT]

Swing on down to the shop. We have most all of the Dillon presses set up back in our loading room and can show you what the differences are between each.
Be glad to assist any way that we can.

Keep in mind, all Dillon products are going up in price on January 1st.

 

[Clay Pigeon]

For about $100 you can upgrade that 450 to a 550. Both of our 550's started life as 450's.
They send you a 550 frame. your ram and linkage system move right over. Very easy upgrade.
The quick change of the dies on a 550 make it so much nicer than the 450

LOL... I'm aware of the upgrade. I bought it new in 81 or 82, Its been a dedicated 38 wad-cutter press for a few decades now.
The 450 is definitely a press you better be paying attention to or you will get squibs or a double charge very easily.

 

[harleymac1]

What powders do you all suggest for 9mm on the Dillon? I assume ball powders meter the best. Any type to stay away from? And, how many rounds do you load between weighing charges?

 

[senork]

I have used Winchester 231 in the past with very good results, but I am currently using Titegroup that I purchased during the powder shortage. I am using 124 grain plated Precision-bond bullets that I purchase from Accura Outdoors. I use the Hogdgon Reloading Center on the internet for my reloading information. Since both of these powders meter very well through my dillon powder dispenser, I check for powder accuracy about every 10-15 loads. Suerte.

 

[red_zr24x4]

I've not had a powder that didn't work in the Dillon.
I usually check every 10-15 but sometimes as many as 20

 

[JeepHammer]

I know it needs paint (which it got later), but a dedicated bench, with top at the correct height, and the press inset so it doesn't overhang the bench top works just wonderfully.

I tried elevated mounts (strong mount type) and increasing the height over the bench created issues for my wrist, arm, shoulder, neck & back.
Adding height over the bench also gives the press more leverage over the bench, bench walking and wall slapping are the most common signs the press has leverage over the bench...



From a comfortable, supportive chair, my feet flat on the floor, the knob is below shoulder height (no leaning forward) and the bottom of the stroke doesn't get me leaning forward either.
That keeps me in the effective range of motion without doing damage over time (stress injury).

I don't care for roller handles, they allow you to 'Limp Wrist' the handle and put the wrist in a weird angle.
When the bench top is at the correct height, you really don't need a roller handle, but to each their own, some people love them.

This bench is mostly 3/4" plywood,
Top is 2 each 24" cuts off a 4'x8' sheet stacked and screwed together. You will have to take 1-1/2" off the length of the top to keep the overall width 4'.
Sides are 24" cuts off a 4'x8' sheet.
The back is 4'x4', hiked up off the ground.
Corners are common 2"x4" giving a VERY solid place to attach the plywood.
Under top has 3/4 surround brace of 2"x4".
There is a 2"x6" cross ways under the presses for added support just where you need it most.

With the back hiked up, it clears base boards, allows power cords to pass, and as you can see, makes for shelf & mount space behind presses.
This is 8 sq.ft. of fun on a bun, rock solid, and dedicated to the XL650 and it's companion tool press (teardowns, case tools, etc, correct problems immedately since it takes about 3 seconds to change tool heads with that particular Lee press)

Notice no handles or presses being Hip or Elbow Busters!

 

[JeepHammer]

Now, keep in mind I do quite a few brass, I don't load as many as I process, but I do load probably 10,000 a year...
Stress injuries accumulate, so it's something to watch out for when you do a lot of processing or loading.



On the left is a case neck qualifier, about 3k/hr if you can feed it that fast. It doesn't have big moving parts, and bad cases need to fall out the bottom, so it's on a roller cart.

In the middle is a case roller.
Cases get rolled between two specifically sized & shaped die plates, these restore the extraction groove, bend the extraction rim back into a useable position, and take the lower case swelling (bloating) out that top down dies simply can't remove.
Once cases come through this machine, the lowers are pretty well returned to SAAMI specification.
Around 1,700/hr if you can keep up with the feeder.

The right is a Super 1050 with drive.
Since I process milbrass, and virtually all milbrass is crimped, I use a 1050 with swager built into the machine.
It's a MUCH tougher frame than the 550 or 650, but you pay through the nose for a 1050.
It will do about 1,200/hr and still have enough time for the length trimmer to give a good clean cut.
Running bottle necked case any faster and you start to have chatter/gouge issues with the trimming process, and you get random case lengths.

Notice the same basic bench design used again?
Since neither the roller or 1050 need a cut out to extend lower than the bench top, this version has a spare parts/equipment drawer under the bench top.
Again, 24" deep, 4' long, 8 sq.ft. of bench top and same of floor space storage under the bench.

The 3 side surround keeps small parts, or spring loaded parts from escaping, and it makes for tool/accessory mounting where it's handy.

 

[harleymac1]

I picked up the 650 today and will mount later tonight. It will go in the same spot you see the Lee in the picture. The bench is an old solid core door from an old building. It is held up by 4x4 legs on the front side and screwed into a 2x4 that is screwed into the wall studs.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fullmag]

Took me a little while to get the crimp adjusted to perfection. After that the 650 makes great ammo.

 

[harleymac1]

Stopping at this point. Picking up dies in the morning so I will finish up then.


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[Steel and wood]

Nice! Glad you made the jump to blue let us know what you think after getting it running.

 

[JeepHammer]

LUBRICATION!
Not many have the recommended straight 30 weight oil & high pressure wheel bearing grease when they complain about the press being choppy/jerky/sticky. It makes a WORLD of difference!

My personal choice is for 'Stencil' brushes (crafts stores or crafts section at wally-world) for grease, and one of the 99¢ long neck plastic bottles for oil (like the old ketchup bottles). It let's me squirt oil right on the ram when needed without getting it everywhere else.

I just made a spot for them on the bench top where I see them (so I don't have an excuse for NOT lubricating, because I WILL procrastinate...)
Since there is a good chance you will have this thing for a couple decades... It makes sense to lubricate & put a cover on it when you aren't using it.
I give mine a shot of Barricade anti-rust when I'm not getting to it for a while. Barricade isn't cheap, but it works great and doesn't take much.

The ONLY 'EXTRA' thing I tell new owners to buy is the Dillon spare parts kit, a bunch of little plastic parts, springs, etc that like to escape or break, particularly when you first start.
That little bag of goodies has saved my reloading days more than a few times, Dillon replaced everything I use (in about a week), so my day is saved and the parts are replaced.

Looks good!
Take time and get every die set up correctly in order, one at a time and you will be running in no time!

 

[harleymac1]

LUBRICATION!
Not many have the recommended straight 30 weight oil & high pressure wheel bearing grease when they complain about the press being choppy/jerky/sticky. It makes a WORLD of difference!

My personal choice is for 'Stencil' brushes (crafts stores or crafts section at wally-world) for grease, and one of the 99¢ long neck plastic bottles for oil (like the old ketchup bottles). It let's me squirt oil right on the ram when needed without getting it everywhere else.

I just made a spot for them on the bench top where I see them (so I don't have an excuse for NOT lubricating, because I WILL procrastinate...)
Since there is a good chance you will have this thing for a couple decades... It makes sense to lubricate & put a cover on it when you aren't using it.
I give mine a shot of Barricade anti-rust when I'm not getting to it for a while. Barricade isn't cheap, but it works great and doesn't take much.

The ONLY 'EXTRA' thing I tell new owners to buy is the Dillon spare parts kit, a bunch of little plastic parts, springs, etc that like to escape or break, particularly when you first start.
That little bag of goodies has saved my reloading days more than a few times, Dillon replaced everything I use (in about a week), so my day is saved and the parts are replaced.

Looks good!
Take time and get every die set up correctly in order, one at a time and you will be running in no time!

Thanks for the advice JeepHammer. I had never heard of barricade but just looked it up. Do you just spray it on a rag and coat all the unpainted metal surfaces or do you just spray a quick coat over the entire press? I do not want to mess up any plastic parts with solvents.

 

[Doublehelix]

Congratulations! I created a short summary document on how to clean and lube your XL650 that I can send you if you want. If you are interested, send me a PM with your email address.

Good luck, and congratulations once again!

 

[red_zr24x4]

Congratulations! I created a short summary document on how to clean and lube your XL650 that I can send you if you want. If you are interested, send me a PM with your email address.

Good luck, and congratulations once again!

Up in the sticky section is a thread on Dillon 550 press rebuild, maybe post it up and have a mod move the thread up there for all of us.
That way there's one up there for the 550 and the 650

 

[JeepHammer]

I spray the bare metal parts when I clean up the press after using, then lubricate when I go to use it.
About all parts of the press get spray, I only wipe down where over spray will get into something where I don't want it.
Barricade is the best rust preventer I've used so far, and it doesn't attack plastic parts or finishes/paint like WD40 does.
That's saying quite a bit considering I own a machine shop and fight rust on a daily basis...

 

[harleymac1]

Well, the press has been installed. It is now easy to understand what all the Dillon hype is about. I hated spending that kind of money but it was like my old boss used to say, "10% more will get you the best." Well, it is more than 10% but well worth it. I appreciate all of the advice, tips, and tricks that have been passed through this thread. It is a great place to get advice. I also now fully understand all the warnings about paying attention. I spaced putting the bullet on a couple of times because I was programmed to worry about one case at a time and only had to concern about what was going on at that station. It took a few minutes but I got used to it and took my time. I am hooked!

 

[harleymac1]

By the way, I only loaded 35 rounds as a shakedown. Once I got the charge set it never deviated more than .1 grains either way. I plan on loading a couple hundred tomorrow. Happy loading everyone.

 

[HOTSHOT357]

Well happy loading to you also. Thanks for taking us along.