Does anyone make their own bore cleaning solution?

[RMC]

When I was a child my father shot on the Navy pistol team and they made their own solution. I think it was basically 2/3rds kerosine and 1/3rd light-weight oil. Are there other recipes out there?

 

[Leadeye]

There's a formula for Ed's Red cleaner on the internet in various places, similar to what you have, but I think it uses ATF fluid in place of oil. Don't remember exactly, but do a search and it should turn up.

 

[BogWalker]

Ed's Red and its variations. The general formula is: take any solvents, lubricants, and cleaners you have in your garage that won't harm the metal or finish. Throw them in a bowl and have at it.

Kerosene, turpentine, ATF, motor oil, mineral spirits, acetone, etc. are all listed in various formulations.

 

[LP1]

Why bother? I shoot frequently, and clean my guns after every session. A $12-15 bottle of solvent lasts me at least a year, probably longer. Mixing up something that isn't intended for firearms, may or may not work, and needs to be labeled and stored seems like false economy.

 

[Kirk Freeman]

You mean coffee? Sure, I make it all the time. Does a great job.

 

[canterbc]

You mean coffee? Sure, I make it all the time. Does a great job.

 

[clelaj]

Eds Red works pretty well on most of what gunks up my guns. Good lube and rust protection Inexpensive and do it yourself. Be careful with the acetone on wood stock finishes

 

[ryknoll3]

There was a user on ARFCOM that had a pretty popular mixture for cleaning carbon from BCG's. It was 1 qt of odorless mineral spirits and 60ml of CLP.

 

[oldpink]

I have no idea why anyone would ever bother with anything but Hoppe's No. 9 (or one of the many chemically identical products) for ordinary bore cleaning and Shooter's Choice (or other copper removers) for removing all traces of copper on rare occasions.

 

[RMC]

Thanks everyone for your recipes. I'll be mixing some stuff up this week.

For all you that can't understand why anyone would want such a silly thing, thank you for posting too for whatever your reason was.

 

[rhinoabe]

If you shoot a Glock you don't even have to clean them.

 

[RMC]

If you shoot a Glock you don't even have to clean them.

Is that one of those disposable plastic things?

 

[Tactically Fat]

I need a good, inexpensive, easily sourceable, aluminum-safe lead solvent.

 

[Sniper 79]

I am a fan of using what's on hand. Right now Aero Kroil or PB Blaster is working great. Eds red sounds like a nice mixture.

Anything that will work for an internal cumbustion engine will work on a firearm which is also......... wait for it .........internal cumbustion.

 

[warren5421]

[FONT=&amp]Electronic Bore Cleaner[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]First things first...This is not ``Colin's Electronic Bore Cleaner"...A Friend of mine and longtime gun-nut and Internet jockey came across this device on another website (He cannot remember exactly where)...So if you want to call it something, let's call it ``The 50 Cent Electronic Bore Cleaner".[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]All you need is an electrode, a power supply and some wires and alligator clips.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]The electrode can be a coat hanger (make sure it is free of any varnish) or a store-bought thin wire rod. Use some heat-shrink tubing at the bottom of the rod and along its length in various places to prevent the rod from contacting the gun at any point in the barrel. (A short Circuit)[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]The power supply consists of 2 `C' cell batteries simply duct-taped together. There is no need for any fancy battery holders. Use only the 2 `C' cells! There is no need for more power than this![/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]The Positive power supply lead is attached to a good contact point of the rifle such as the rear sight.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]The Negative lead goes to the top of the electrode. [/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]Stand the gun upright and lock it into this position.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Plug the chamber end of the gun...This can be done by using a fired shell wrapped with some Teflon tape or an automotive tire Valve stem trimmed to fit snugly.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Tie a rag around the muzzle end of the barrel to prevent spills!...I also often wrap a layer of duct-tape (The handy-mans best friend) around the muzzle so I can overfill the bore slightly without it leaking.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]The barrel is filled with ``Household Ammonia"...You will find this at the grocery store or wherever your wife buys household cleaners...The strength is usually around 10 - 20%, you do not any stronger than that. Don't dilute it, add any other agents to it or substitute anything else for it.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]

[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Once the bore is filled with ammonia, connect the wires and let the device do its job for ONE HOUR.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Keep a close eye on it as the ammonia will foam quite a bit making top-ups needed quite often.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]After the hour, the gun will need to be thouroughly cleaned with standard bore cleaners and oiled to prevent rust.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]So what does this thing do and when do you use it?[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]This device is using the actions as a chrome plating shop does but in reverse.[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]The ammonia lifts copper and the electrode attracts it like a magnet. You will see the electrode is quite a mess at the end of an hours use. Just wipe off the deposits though and its ready to use again.[/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]This thing is not meant to be used as a regular cleaning tool...There is no need for it after a days shooting inmost cases. It is meant to be used on guns that have not had a proper cleaning in many years...The ones that you can run a patch up and down all day and they still come out dirty![/FONT]
[FONT=&amp]Follow the design and instructions exactly, Use it for what it is and it will save you hours of cleaning time. Try and overpower it, forget that you left it on, or misuse it it any way and you might end up with damage...I have yet to see any damage from this thing but I use it as I state here.[/FONT]

 

[warren5421]

[FONT=&quot]Eds Red Bore Cleaner[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Mix Your Own "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner... It Really Works![/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]By Ed Harris Rev. 12-27-94 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Three years ago I mixed my first "Ed's Red" and I still think the "recipe" is a great idea. If you have never tried it, or maybe lost the recipe, I urge you save this and mix your own. My followers on the FIREARMS Echo think it's the best thing since smokeless powder! Therefore, I'll summarize the story again for the passing parade that didn't get it the first time... [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I originally did this because I used a lot of rifle bore cleaner and was deterred by the high price of commercial products. I knew there was no technical reason why you could not mix an effective bore cleaner using common hardware store ingredients which would be inexpensive, effective, and provide reasonable corrosion protection and adequate lubrication. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The "recipe" is based on proven principles and incorporates two polar and two nonpolar ingredients. It is adapted from a formula in Hatcher's Notebook, Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, but substituting equivalent modern materials. I had the help of an organic chemist in doing this and we knew there would be no "surprises" The original Hatcher recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and optionally 200 grams of lanolin added per liter. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. We use K-1 kerosene of the type normally sold for indoor space heaters. An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe or III) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF's were sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it highly suitable for our intended purpose. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hatcher's original formula used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is expensive and highly flammable. Cheaper and safer is aliphatic mineral spirits, which is a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and as automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol". [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]There isn't anything in Ed's Red which will chemically remove copper fouling, but it does a better job on carbon residue than anything out there. Several users have told me, that with exclusive use of "ER" does reduce the buildup of copper fouling, because it removes old impacted fouling which is left by other cleaners, reducing the adhesion of abraded metal to the surface, and leaving a cleaner surface which reduces subsequent fouling. It appears that "ER" will actually remove metal fouling it if you let it "soak" so the surfactants will do the job, though you may have to be patient. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]The lanolin is optional. The cleaner works quite well without it. Incorporating the lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, and provides better residual lubrication and corrosion protection if you use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage. If you want to minimize cost, you can leave the lanolin out and save about $8 per gallon. Mix some yourself. I know it will work as well for you as it does for me. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent, (aka "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot](Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is breathable because the acetone will evaporate. The acetone in ER will attack HDPE in about 6 months, making a heck of a mess! [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING[/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]Ed's Red Bore Cleaner: [/FONT]​

1. [FONT=&quot]Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore. [/FONT]
2. [FONT=&quot]Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action. [/FONT]
3. [FONT=&quot]For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use. [/FONT]
4. [FONT=&quot]Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years. For longer term storage I recommend use of Lee Liquid Alox as a Cosmolene substitute. "ER" will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene. [/FONT]
5. [FONT=&quot]Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes). [/FONT]
6. [FONT=&quot]Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described. [/FONT]
7. [FONT=&quot]I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]LABEL AND OBLIGATORY SAFETY WARNINGS: [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]RIFLE BORE CLEANER
CAUTION:
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED. [/FONT]​

[FONT=&quot]KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN [/FONT]​

• [FONT=&quot]Flammable mixture. Keep away from heat, sparks or flame. [/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly. [/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labelling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]This "Recipe" is placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]In Home Mix We Trust, Regards, Ed [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]- --- msged 2.05
* Origin: Home of Ed's Red (1:109/120.3006) [/FONT]
[FONT=&amp][/FONT]

 

[Jeepster48439]

Why bother? I shoot frequently, and clean my guns after every session. A $12-15 bottle of solvent lasts me at least a year, probably longer. Mixing up something that isn't intended for firearms, may or may not work, and needs to be labeled and stored seems like false economy.

Ed's Red is intended for firearms and is commercially available.

"ED'S RED" BORE CLEANER | Brownells

 

[Jeepster48439]

Here is a page for all firearms cleaning tasks.

Homemade Firearm Related Products

 

[BogWalker]

If you shoot a Glock you don't even have to clean them.

That's because it explodes before it gets too dirty, right?

 

[JettaKnight]

I shoot a lot of Mosin Nagants, so I make a batch of cleaning solution several times a day; most of it I dump into the toilet.


You want me to save some for you?