Drinking water and cement

[POC]

Hi all. I have a spring that my family and my sisters get our water from. The holding tank was built...80 years ago? It is concrete walls on two sides that run up to the base of the bluff that the spring comes out of. The walls are in need of some repair. I've talked to the folks at UGL (?) about any of their quick setting products that might work, they had nothing. Does anyone have any ideas as to what I could use?
What is the drying time for just simple mortar? I can drain the water out of the "tank", but then we are all without water.
I've also thought of "lining" the inside of the wall with some thick plastic sheeting as the hydraulic pressure of the water would force the plastic into the cracks and at least slow the leaking.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[shibumiseeker]

Hydraulic cement hardens in minutes. Cement doesn't have to "dry" to cure, the chemical reaction takes place as soon as it gets wet.

Get some of the hydraulic cement designed to be used to seal cracks in a basement wall (it's the easiest to get premade). Most hardware stores carry it. Play with it a little bit to get an idea of the curing time. You can probably smear the stuff inside under water depending on your access. You can also probably force it into the cracks from the outside.

 

[oldfb]

Mighty putty on the inside should fix ya right up.

Then a pool liner and a monthly chlorine treatment and you are back in business.

It would probably be possible to have an in the ground pool Guy come in and shoot all four sides and shore up your cistern from the inside.

During the off season and if you had someone to split a "cement shoot" with it might even be an opportunity to get that custom in the ground hot tub you always dreamed of.lol

Not sure of costs but maybe with creative thinking and bartering it could work.
Waterpump, used filter and heater with some PVC is all that separates a creative mind from the backyard spa of your dreams. Oh and a keg of beer 10 people an afternoon of shoveling, framing and chicken wiring. You think I jest yet budget, hardworking and the correct research could take a crummy home repair and turn it into a most excellent fruit of your labor.lol

Contractors love multiple jobs in a local area which is why it is always good to think about project planning with neighbors. New subdivisions often get lawn installation at a group discount but neighbors always overlook banding together for new roofs but it makes sense to band together and negotiate concessions from contractors and suppliers taking advantage of volume discounting, expediency of having no travel to go to the next job for the contractor.

Having multiple family members close together has incredible potential to combine orders and resources that strangers may be reluctant to do out of privacy or fear.

I would be cautious using any chemical type sealcoating for fear of water contact contamination so do your research.

Goodluck and hopefully someone will find inspiration to make lemonade from their life's lemons.

 

[bigdawgtrucks]

Hydraulic cement, it works great. I use it all the time in storm drains with standing or running water. Just add water, mix into a thick putty, and stuff it in the cracks.

 

[slimplmbr]

Don't know how big of an area you need to fix but check at a pool supply store for a 2 part epoxy putty they sell. Mix the putty and it can be used underwater to seal cracks and holes.

 

[CountryBoy19]

I tried to drink cement one time. It was really chalky and gritty, didn't taste very good at all, and definitely didn't quench my thirst. I prefer drinking water when I'm thirsty...

 

[shibumiseeker]

I tried to drink cement one time. It was really chalky and gritty, didn't taste very good at all, and definitely didn't quench my thirst. I prefer drinking water when I'm thirsty...

Bet you **** a brick...

 

[CountryBoy19]

Bet you **** a brick...

Well, I wouldn't really call it a brick. It may have been hard like a brick but it sure wasn't shaped like your standard brick.

 

[TB1999]

its been said twice, but yes, hydraulic cement

 

[POC]

Is ur standard hydraulic cement safe for potable water?

 

[shibumiseeker]

Is ur standard hydraulic cement safe for potable water?

In the configuration you're going to use it, yep!

I wouldn't drink the stuff as we already discussed above

 

[POC]

I have some UGL Drylock. It's the kind that gets warm after you mix it and can stop running water.
You think that'd be ok?

 

[shibumiseeker]

I have some UGL Drylock. It's the kind that gets warm after you mix it and can stop running water.
You think that'd be ok?

Without having seen the site, all I can say is probably. It won't hurt, so trying it is a low risk proposition. It gets warm because the hydration reaction is highly exothermic. Being in spring water may slow it down some as that reaction is temperature dependent to a degree.

 

[POC]

The main thing I'm worried about is "chemicals" in the water. And as I understand it, "concrete" is pretty safe to store water in.

Quikrete emailed me back and they do have a product taht is "EPA potable water safe" but it is more like a 'leveler', somthing to be put on in thin layers. It seems silly to put something "EPA approved" on that wall, while the crawdads are crawling around on the pump....

 

[shibumiseeker]

The main thing I'm worried about is "chemicals" in the water. And as I understand it, "concrete" is pretty safe to store water in.

Quikrete emailed me back and they do have a product taht is "EPA potable water safe" but it is more like a 'leveler', somthing to be put on in thin layers. It seems silly to put something "EPA approved" on that wall, while the crawdads are crawling around on the pump....

Considering the main ingredients in cement are lime and clay, and most of the hydraulic cements, if they have additives will have them in pretty low concentrations, you're pretty safe. If you want to be absolutely sure, just purge the intake lines or shut them off while you are doing it. I'm guessing your springbox has an intake and the overflow goes on over the top of the box or through a secondary drain? If there WERE any problems with hydraulic cement they would manifest themselves most in water that was ponded, but even then I'd really not worry about it at all. The biggest issue with any cement is that they are fairly basic and can saponify the fat in your skin while using them, but that property is diluted very quickly and really only applies to direct contact with the cement itself. Just about any contact water has with cement or limestone will make it alkaline.

 

[POC]

Thanks.

No "intake" or "overflow" pipes...this is OLD SCHOOL! ha ha....if there is too much water, it runs over the little walls. Our pumps lay in the bottom on a concrete block.
Pretty basic.

 

[POC]

Myers Spring Cave

Here is a picture I found. This is just after a bunch of rain. Usually there isn't that much water running over the wall.

 

[jclark]

Is ur standard hydraulic cement safe for potable water?

Yes.....after it dries.
Use Aqua plug, or that crap that Lowes sells in the yellow and black bucket.

 

[POC]

What I already have is UGL's "Dry Lock". ok?

 

[shibumiseeker]

What I already have is UGL's "Dry Lock". ok?

The only thing I can find on that product is the latex based stuff you paint on. Which is not ok for potable water. Get thee down to Lowes and buy the stuff the above poster mentioned in the yellow and black bucket. Look for the words "hydraulic cement". That's what you need.