Electric Chainsaws?

[AboveTheBest]

Having a couple of chains is very good advice, but you should also pick up a round file next time you're at the store.

I worked cutting trees in the woods of Vermont (think Maine, but smaller scale) during the summers while I was in college, and all of those guys always carried a file on their hip. At least every tank of gas they would pull it out and "tweak" their blades, and it only takes about a pass per blade once you've got the hang of it. There are a lot of guys much better than me, but I can get a chain nice and sharp in about five minutes now with just a round file.

If you have an old chain laying around its worth trying just to get some practice.

 

[Clay]

My first saw was one my grandfather got for his retirement. A Stihl 009L. Small saw but works GREAT for 90% of the stuff I've ever had to do. It's hard to start when cold, probably mostly because it doesn't have a priming bulb, but other than that GREAT saw. A few years ago I bought a Husqvarna 450 Rancher. Now this is an excellent saw. Plenty of power for anything I need, easy chain adjustment, and just overall a better saw, just bigger. I wouldn't hesitate to buy either one again, and I wouldn't buy electric just because of the number of times I've used either saw in places where electric just wasn't a option with out a generator. Get the proper safety gear as recommended above, get some training, and get at least 2 extra chains.

 

[HamsterStyle]

My first saw was one my grandfather got for his retirement. A Stihl 009L. Small saw but works GREAT for 90% of the stuff I've ever had to do. It's hard to start when cold, probably mostly because it doesn't have a priming bulb, but other than that GREAT saw. A few years ago I bought a Husqvarna 450 Rancher. Now this is an excellent saw. Plenty of power for anything I need, easy chain adjustment, and just overall a better saw, just bigger. I wouldn't hesitate to buy either one again, and I wouldn't buy electric just because of the number of times I've used either saw in places where electric just wasn't a option with out a generator. Get the proper safety gear as recommended above, get some training, and get at least 2 extra chains.

I don't believe any of the Stihl saws have a primer bubble. I believe they use the string as the primer. Choke it, pull string until it hits (usually 2 pulls), move choke to run position, pull until it starts (usually 1 pull)

 

[tmschuller]

The "C" versions of several models do. I have a ms250 and a ms250 C. Has primer and tooless chains tensioner.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Stihl 028V is what I have. Better, a retired forestry DNR guy neighbor is going to give me some lessons in exchange for the computer fixin' I've been doing for him. I'm Stihl waiting on my chaps and gear <-- see what i did there?

 

[Cameramonkey]

Stihl 028V is what I have. Better, a retired forestry DNR guy neighbor is going to give me some lessons in exchange for the computer fixin' I've been doing for him. I'm Stihl waiting on my chaps and gear <-- see what i did there?

That's awesome!

I have that exact same powerhead in the 1980s vintage. Its amazing and bulletproof. It was my dad's and expect to pass it down to my son. Check the bar closely. Does it say "made in West Germany"? If so even cooler.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

That's awesome!

I have that exact same powerhead in the 1980s vintage. Its amazing and bulletproof. It was my dad's and expect to pass it down to my son. Check the bar closely. Does it say "made in West Germany"? If so even cooler.

I'll check this weekend. It's in my out building. I looked for a badge, but couldn't find it. I do have a bar cover thingy (plastic shroud over the bar). Lot's of oil in the case. from what I gather, it's the norm (bar oil)/ I will try to get pics f the chain/tension. and I will try to start it this weekend also. I won;t cut anything just yet. I may get antsy and try some 1" saplings or something. depends on the rain.

 

[Cameramonkey]

I'll check this weekend. It's in my out building. I looked for a badge, but couldn't find it. I do have a bar cover thingy (plastic shroud over the bar). Lot's of oil in the case. from what I gather, it's the norm (bar oil)/ I will try to get pics f the chain/tension. and I will try to start it this weekend also. I won;t cut anything just yet. I may get antsy and try some 1" saplings or something. depends on the rain.

Yep. a storage case with bar oil in the bottom is "normal" for these. I think there may be an issue with a seal, but under the circumstances its no biggie because it works while the motor is running and the bar gets its oil. (as long as you dont have bar oil dripping on your boots in the field its ok) I just throw an old dish/hand towel in the bottom of the case to keep it from getting too drippy/messy and replace as needed.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Yep. a storage case with bar oil in the bottom is "normal" for these. I think there may be an issue with a seal, but under the circumstances its no biggie because it works while the motor is running and the bar gets its oil. (as long as you dont have bar oil dripping on your boots in the field its ok) I just throw an old dish/hand towel in the bottom of the case to keep it from getting too drippy/messy and replace as needed.

Considering that it hasn't been used since last summer? I wouldn't call it excessive considering what I know now and how long it's sat. I could wipe it all up with 2 paper towels. Maybe a 1/16th or 1/32 coating of oil in the bottom of the storage case. Just struck me as odd when we first looked at it until he explained the bar oil thing. I am missing the supplied wrench (for oil and spark plug). no biggie there.

 

[Cameramonkey]

Considering that it hasn't been used since last summer? I wouldn't call it excessive considering what I know now and how long it's sat. I could wipe it all up with 2 paper towels. Maybe a 1/16th or 1/32 coating of oil in the bottom of the storage case. Just struck me as odd when we first looked at it until he explained the bar oil thing. I am missing the supplied wrench (for oil and spark plug). no biggie there.

Yes. In my experience its like an old aircraft radial engine... if its not leaking oil it is because it is empty. Leaks are normal for these from what I understand. I'm sure both of our saws have a minor issue, but not necessarily worth having serviced. I use mine once or twice a year. I ALWAYS have oil in the case. I'm sure I could take it to a dealer and have all of the seals replaced to stop the leaks, but is it really necessary? Do I really NEED to keep that bar oil in the reservoir indefinitely as if it were some rare, mystical substance? (no!)

But bottom line, is with these things the ONLY thing that really matters is that the gizmo that delivers oil to the bar does so accurately and adequately without fail. For me I run the saw full tilt with the bar pointed at a smooth-ish surface but not touching it; if I see oil splattering on it I know I'm good.

 

[CountryBoy19]

Pro tip: don't ever attempt to run a saw from a ladder as posted up thread. That's 100 percent unsafe.

This is true... ladder = potential for bad injuries or death. It's just not worth the risk.

Been watching lots of videos, and will watch many more. I like the brake handle. No idea it existed. Not a be all end all, but another facet that makes me feel a little better about it all

IMHO, I wouldn't even own a saw without a chain brake. While it certainly isn't a be all, end all, it is definitely a BIG increase in safety. I've been saved by the brake before.

80% of using a chainsaw is above the shoulders and understanding the physics of the tree and what gravity wants it to do. (e.g. if I cut this piece, what is the rest of the tree going to do? Which way do I cut it so the cut opens away from the bar, and not clamping down on it? etc. )

This is very true. Understanding the physics, properly surveying the tree beforehand, are HUGE factors in the safety. Not all trees are alike either. Dead, rotten, pines are all "brittle" trees and don't hinge very well. Consider that when making a cut.

Brain lapses get even the best of us. I cut trees for a side-job and have removed some pretty dicey trees before. But out in the middle of a woods cutting up a downed tree I mis-judged one and nearly broke my leg (all alone in the woods). Don't get complacent, take your time and really think through every single step from the point you start cutting until the tree/branch falls and stops moving. My 'mis-judge" had nothing to do with how it fell, it had to do with what it's reaction was when it hit the ground. Thankfully it was just a big branch and not a full tree; the butt of the branch kicked 8 feet up into the air and came straight at me. I leapt out of the way but my leg didn't follow my torso fast enough and the branch landed directly on it.

One thing that I continually see people skip on the "necessary equipment list" is a couple plastic wedges. NEVER underestimate what a wedge or 2 can do for you. They are an absolute must when it comes to safely felling (cutting down) trees. But IMHO, they are a necessity when bucking (cutting large pieces into smaller pieces) trees up. By simply palming a wedge as soon as you can you prevent the kerf (empty space where the saw removed wood) from closing up and pinching the bar (which will render your saw inoperable until you can manage to free the bar and it may damage the bar or chain). Palming a wedge is when you cup a wedge in the palm of your hand and sharply place it in the kerf so that it sticks/stays put. You don't necessarily need to drive it it, just put it in there so the kerf can't pinch down on the saw as you get close to cutting all the way through. If, by chance you do pinch the bar, in most cases a couple wedges and hammer can open the kerf back up to free the bar.

Last but not least, there is no shortage of "instructional videos" out there on felling/cutting trees. Just like the gun world, the tree-cutting world has it's fair share of ignorant buffoons that have no business making an instructional video. MAKE SURE the videos you are watching come from a reliable source. Some that I recommend are as follows: Nearly all of the chainsaw manufacturers have instructional videos on their websites that are completely FREE. Not only do they instruct how to cut trees up, but also they instruct on the proper use of the saw, how to care for it, how to start it, how to adjust it, how to be safe etc. WATCH THOSE. Lastly, one of the most educational series I've ever watched on the actual physics of how trees react and how to get them to do what you want them to do is made by the British Columbia Forestry Service. It is VERY educational, albeit some of the techniques are definitely a bit advanced for a beginner. I still encourage you to watch it all the way through (IIRC, it's a 9 video series on youtube) because you will pick up small tidbits here and there about safety aspects etc.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Won't start. Everything seems to be in order. Compression test shows 75 psi

 

[RobbyMaQ]

I has a sad...

Now trying to determine if it's worth rebuilding, or buying a new chainsaw

 

[churchmouse]

I has a sad...

Now trying to determine if it's worth rebuilding, or buying a new chainsaw

Looks like an overbore is in order here.

 

[RobbyMaQ]

Looks like an overbore is in order here.

Yeah. Above my pay grade
If it's just piston & rings, it's not too bad ($40). Full overhaul and it's $115. Unsure if mine is older (44mm harder to find) or 46mm (newer/easier). Still trying to sort that out. I think the supers were all 46mm

And cameramonkey, mine was made in the US

 

[tmschuller]

There are many cylinder/piston kits you can get for it. Hardest part is taking the plastic case off. I have a 026 I want to do that to. Sorry to hear about the saw. Good luck.

 

[lucky4034]

Before you condemn battery powered chainsaws do your research. Its obvious you dont plan to be a professional lumberjack and electric is a low maintenance, low noise lightweight solution.

No different than choosing a gun... different tools for different jobs and my guess is a kobalt 40v may do you well.

 

[bocefus78]

Buy a new (er) one. That thing has been abused by the looks of it. Seals could be bad, crank bearings also need checked when and if you tear it down.

Good news is that stihl parts bring good $ on flea bay. Carb, plastics, crank, etc.

 

[tmschuller]

Buy a new (er) one. That thing has been abused by the looks of it. Seals could be bad, crank bearings also need checked when and if you tear it down.

Good news is that stihl parts bring good $ on flea bay. Carb, plastics, crank, etc.

+1 I have a old 026 that is needing more parts than I want to throw at it.. crazy thing is just for parts some are bringing 100+ dollars. That would buy almost 1200 rounds of .22 I think I am going to list it there.

 

[Mark 1911]

I had a corded electric chain saw once. It was a Craftsman. Not bad for small jobs around the yard like trimming medium size branches. But probably too small for a larger piece of land like a farm or wooded property. As far as safety goes, it's definitely easier to handle than larger gasoline powered models, so in a sense it's probably safer for a beginner. But it can still take a finger or hand off in the blink of an eye, its a tool that requires full respect and some prior training on the basics.