Enclosed trailers, what to look for?

[Leadeye]

I have two Schwartz trailers bought in the 90s, no complaints.

 

[long coat]

Most stuff has been covered already.
The taped on skin is OK if done right, but if you ever have to pay for a panel to be replaced, it is very expensive. I have had to replace the entire side before, when only 1 was damaged, because the next panel sometimes gets messed up when removing the bad one.
Get bigger than you need, you will fill it up.
Get the heavier axle or go tandem.
If you go with a torsion axle and something happens that it need replaced, no one will have it in stock, if you get the spring axle, most places will have it in stock. The spring axle is also cheaper, but torsion is a better ride. If you go torsion axle, make sure it is bolted on, not welded, also get replaceable spindles. Those two options will raise the price, but If you need to replace it for some reason, you will save on labor.

 

[edporch]

All I can suggest is get a dual axle.
They track down the road smoother.

 

[Butch627]

I don't know the official term for it but I would get the box as wide as the outsides of the tires, lots of more usable room
V nose for wind resistence
16 inch centers for wall and floor stringers
3/4 inch ply on floor 3/8 on walls
Leaf springs for ease of service in the field


Most manufacturers have several different lines of trailers as you move up in price so goes the quality and features. Prices are so competitive that I would think that trailers with the same features probably cost about the same no matter the manufacturer.

It woulds like you won't have much weight, a single axle trailer would probably serve you fine. Single axle is much more maneuverable. 2 axle more stable and more forgiving to poor load distribution. If you go more than 12ft then go 2ea 3500lb axles

Tall is great, I shelve out some trailers and getting an extra shelve adds quite a bit of usable storage. Tall though adds a huge drag penalty when towing.

They all get hot in the sun, lighter colors not as hot, get a roof vent.

I love E track, my trailers have it 6 inches off the ground, half way up, and a foot from the ceiling. That includes the front. I don't like E track for tying down cars, but E track on the floor tied into the stringers will be fine for a utility vehicle.

Used trailers around here go for stupid money. Guys ask 75 percent of new prices for rotted out patched together bent up pieces of crap and they seem to get it. Most well used trailers have bent axles, look closely at tire wear. They rust and rot out from inside out and from underneath

Spec out everything we are recommending in a new trailer will probably cause you to pass out when you see the price, you have to pick and choose what you can and can not live without

 

[Gluemanz28]

Several of my customers are cargo trailer builders.

They are not all built the same.

A seamless unit is the way to go if it is built correctly. A tape only unit is a disaster waiting to happen.
The correct way to build a seamless unit is with a combination of a Structual Methacrylate Adhesive, Polyurethane adhesive and VHB tape. The tape should only be used to hold the panels until the adhesive cures.

Better units will have the following:
Tube main frame instead of I beam
16” OC wall & roof studs instead of 24” OC
Tube wall and roof studs instead of flimsy Z bars
32” side door instead of 24”
5 yr warranty instead of 1-3 yrs

The diamond plate stone guard is taller on better units.

I would opt for insulation in the unit too

There are also things like what type of sealer they use on the roof. High solvent products shrink and cause voids that allow water to leak in.

The lighter color the unit, the cooler it will be. White is best, then silver, with black being the worst.

Pickup a cheap inferred thermometer from Harbor Freight and test some units.


I will I’ll get a list together of good, better and best for you Phylo

 

[long coat]

Several of my customers are cargo trailer builders.

I just wanted to let you know, I hate you......

I bet I have removed some of your glue. It's not fun.....see post above about replacing entire sides because the glue will not let go....

 

[Gluemanz28]

I just wanted to let you know, I hate you......

I bet I have removed some of your glue. It's not fun.....see post above about replacing entire sides because the glue will not let go....

I know what you mean LC

Most of my customers want the adhesive to be super strong but be able to come apart. It’s not really possible to have both.

If the substrates are clean and in some cases a primer used, the adhesive is stronger than the metal.

 

[Tactically Fat]

If the substrates are clean and in some cases a primer used, the adhesive is stronger than the metal.

I was watching a show on "Extreme RVs" not too long ago. I think the segment was from one of the luxury coach builders up there in your neck of the woods. The craftsman that was talking about it said that exact same thing. "When this stuff is fully cured, it's stronger than the metal it's attached to." Strength being relative, of course.

 

[k12lts]

Lots of good information already posted. I have a 7x14 United trailer and like features like tandem axles, they ride much smoother because one wheel is still on the ground when the other hits a bump or hole. I also like torsion axles instead of leaf springs, they ride smoother and let the trailer sit lower. Look for Dexter EZ Lube axles.

There are two schools of thought on v-nose trailers, I prefer rolled front and side construction. Most say they are more aerodynamic than a v-nose with square corners (did you ever see an airplane with square corners?).

Get good tires and keep them inflated. Most tire failures are due to under inflation. On that size trailer you will probably have 205/75-15 D (8 ply) tires.

A Ranger will not fit in a standard height (6 foot) trailer but 7 foot tall ones are available just a little harder to find used. Keep in mind, extra height also kills your fuel mileage but if you have to have it there are no other options.

Look for 12 or 16" on center floors with 3/4" treated plywood tongue and groove floors and sidewalls on 16" centers. Framework of the hitch and under the trailer should be boxed and not C channel.

Unless you need to haul a car, a 7' wide trailer is a nice size. 8' wide trailers require extended mirrors to see behind you.

Mayes Trailers in Whiteland or Detro Trailers west of Indy at 231 & 36 are good dealers.

 

[42769vette]

Keep in mind, extra height also kills your fuel mileage but if you have to have it there are no other options.

Thats a fact, My trailer is 8'. My truck pulls harder, and gets worse gas milage with the enclosed 10k pound trailer empty than my 25' 14k pound flatbed with a 9k pound skidsteer on it.