First time reloading today

[sgreen3]

"RANGE REPORT FOR FIRST TIME LOADING PG.3" I just got done loading my first batch of ammo from my new Lee turret reload kit, and had one question I was loading .223 and noticed that after using the full length die filled with powder. I have to hold the bullet till I pull down on the handle, because the bullet does not sit on the case by its self. Should the case be open a little to allow the bullet to sit on there so you dont have hold it on there, reason I ask is that it just seems like the bullet would go in alot easier if the case was expanded just a pinch at the mouth so the bullet got started a bit easier. This may be a completely newb( well it is a newb question since I just started reloading so bare with me) question, but just want to make sure Im doing everything correct for my range trip tomarrow to test them out and see how I did.

 

[shibumiseeker]

<edited to be more clear >If you haven't already chamfered the case neck, do this first (it should be part of the case prep), it will probably fix the issue. IF it doesn't then you can flare the case neck. Flare the case mouth *just* enough to allow the bullet to seat, but then you have to add a slight crimp to take the flare back out again. Having to hold the bullet in line with the case mouth is normal. You'll know if you need to flare if you are crumpling the case neck or shaving the bullet.

 

[sgreen3]

Ok I see then, I am using just Sptizer style bullets. How would I go about flaring it just a little? Or do I really need to worry about it. I just loaded up 20 for my first run at everything to see how I did and didnt crumple the case. But that is what I figured would happen.

 

[shibumiseeker]

With the Lee dies the case mouth is flared with the powder-through-the-die die. You need to screw it down per the instructions. I usually screw it down until it touches the case when the case is up and then a few fractions of a turn at a time until it has enough flare to allow the bullet to seat without too much resistance. The problem here is that this also depends on the cases to be trimmed to uniform length to get consistent flare. Longer cases will flare more and shorter cases will flare less.

Then make sure you crimp with either the bullet seating die or the Factory Crimp Die, and just a little is all that is needed.

<eta> As before this assumed you already have chamfered the case mouth and this hasn't solved the problem.

 

[DRob]

Case mouth prep

All I load is .17 Fireball, .204, & .223 ammo and I "chamfer" as opposed to "flare". Chamfering only cuts a slight bevel inside the case mouth. No crimp needed. Boat tail bullets will usually just sit in the case mouth but I hold flat base bullets in place until the bullet enters the seating die. It gets interesting with the .17s but it beats mashing a case neck while trying to seat the bullet.

You'll also find bullets seat much easier with a little chamfer. There are tools available to do it by hand but I use an RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center.

 

[sgreen3]

With the Lee dies the case mouth is flared with the powder-through-the-die die. You need to screw it down per the instructions. I usually screw it down until it touches the case when the case is up and then a few fractions of a turn at a time until it has enough flare to allow the bullet to seat without too much resistance. The problem here is that this also depends on the cases to be trimmed to uniform length to get consistent flare. Longer cases will flare more and shorter cases will flare less.

Then make sure you crimp with either the bullet seating die or the Factory Crimp Die, and just a little is all that is needed.

Yea I dont currently have the rifle powder through die yet (on the list though) also anther reason I only loaded up 20. But that would make sense it would be on that die. Cant wait till I get it though will make loading go alot faster, I already have the powder disk measure cant wait to use it.

 

[sgreen3]

All I load is .17 Fireball, .204, & .223 ammo and I "chamfer" as opposed to "flare". Chamfering only cuts a slight bevel inside the case mouth. No crimp needed. Boat tail bullets will usually just sit in the case mouth but I hold flat base bullets in place until the bullet enters the seating die. It gets interesting with the .17s but it beats mashing a case neck while trying to seat the bullet.

You'll also find bullets seat much easier with a little chamfer. There are tools available to do it by hand but I use an RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center.

I acually have a Chamfer tool its a Lee tool though. That would make very good sense to use that, may have to try that out an see how it goes.

 

[sgreen3]

Oh an another question I dont currently have a brass tumbler, which Im waiting on getting one before I load up a bunch since I want all my brass clean. But after you tumble your brass do you clean it in any other way to make sure there is no media left in any of the cases?

 

[sloughfoot]

You could always use a "Q-tip". I have swiped the inside of a case every now and again when I thought something might be in there.

For the previous question, rifle brass should never be flared like pistol brass. Just chamfer and seat the bullet. Yes, you have to hold the bullet until it starts into the case.

 

[sgreen3]

You could always use a "Q-tip". I have swiped the inside of a case every now and again when I thought something might be in there.

For the previous question, rifle brass should never be flared like pistol brass. Just chamfer and seat the bullet. Yes, you have to hold the bullet until it starts into the case.

Hmmm... two different takes on the matter. One says to and another says not to do it. Well I didnt flair the 20 I did today, so I should keep doing like I did these with the exception of using the little flare tool I got? This is the little flare tool i have Lee Precision: Chamfer Tool

 

[sloughfoot]

Hmmm... two different takes on the matter. One says to and another says not to do it. Well I didnt flair the 20 I did today, so I should keep doing like I did these with the exception of using the little flare tool I got? This is the little flare tool i have Lee Precision: Chamfer Tool

The goal is to always work the brass as little as possible. Make your choice.

I just know that it is not necessary to flare to get the bullet in there and to have a concentric round of ammo.

 

[sgreen3]

Makes sense it would last longer if you do less to it. Guess ill keep doin what I was doing then

 

[U.S. Patriot]

I just loaded my first batch of .223 rounds as well. I chamfered all my cases, all it takes is a couple of turns with a hand chamfer. Using boat tail bullets I do not have to hold onto the bullets when seating them, and there is no need for a crimp.

 

[sgreen3]

I just loaded my first batch of .223 rounds as well. I chamfered all my cases, all it takes is a couple of turns with a hand chamfer. Using boat tail bullets I do not have to hold onto the bullets when seating them, and there is no need for a crimp.

Thats what I have. Im just going to do that from now on i think when I have the spitzer bullets to use.

 

[ckcollins2003]

You could always use a "Q-tip". I have swiped the inside of a case every now and again when I thought something might be in there.

For the previous question, rifle brass should never be flared like pistol brass. Just chamfer and seat the bullet. Yes, you have to hold the bullet until it starts into the case.

This is correct. My first batch of .308 rounds I did not chamfer and they would not chamber because the pressure built from pressing the bullet into the case too roughly. Therefore I had to get a bullet puller and full length resize all of the brass and do them all over again. That's when my friend told me what the "little rocket thing" does... aka chamfer tool.

You need to chamfer the case mouth so that the bullet will stay in the case while being seated into place. Unlike pistol rounds, you don't "flare" the case mouth on rifle brass.

With your Lee chamfer tool, just take a cordless drill and put your shellholder inside of it. You should have one that has a certain thing on the back that will go into the drill. Then place your piece of brass into that shellholder so that it is nice and tight. Hold the chamfer tool in your other hand and drill into the case mouth for a few seconds. It will make a world of difference.

 

[sgreen3]

This is correct. My first batch of .308 rounds I did not chamfer and they would not chamber because the pressure built from pressing the bullet into the case too roughly. Therefore I had to get a bullet puller and full length resize all of the brass and do them all over again. That's when my friend told me what the "little rocket thing" does... aka chamfer tool.

You need to chamfer the case mouth so that the bullet will stay in the case while being seated into place. Unlike pistol rounds, you don't "flare" the case mouth on rifle brass.

With your Lee chamfer tool, just take a cordless drill and put your shellholder inside of it. You should have one that has a certain thing on the back that will go into the drill. Then place your piece of brass into that shellholder so that it is nice and tight. Hold the chamfer tool in your other hand and drill into the case mouth for a few seconds. It will make a world of difference.

Great info thanks. yea after I got to thinking bout what Sloughfoot said makes perfect sense. Im gonna give what I got a try tomarrow an see how they do. But Ill be doing the chamfer thing from now on.

 

[billybob44]

Case mouths..

Get yourself a GOOD chamfer tool. One from RCBS,Forster,or L.E. Wilson. It looks like a 2" long rocket. It WILL be one of the best $15.00 that you'll spend on your loading hobby.
Sinclair has an adapter that the chamfer tool will go into, and you can put the assembly in a cordless drill+chamfer away..
If/when you get into trimming your brass, you WILL thank me for suggesting this setup..Bill.

 

[U.S. Patriot]

Something I suggest you do when first reloading a new caliber. Seat a bullet into a case that has no primer or powder. Then cycle it in your handgun/rifle 3 or so times. Just to make sure it chambers and extracts properly. It also gives you the opportunity to make sure the bullet is not setting into the case. I have seen a few people having problems chambering .223 rounds they have loaded, because the brass was not re-sized correctly.

 

[Eric86]

Oh an another question I dont currently have a brass tumbler, which Im waiting on getting one before I load up a bunch since I want all my brass clean. But after you tumble your brass do you clean it in any other way to make sure there is no media left in any of the cases?

If your tumbling media is fairly clean and your brass is not sticky with any abnormal foreign substance all the media will simply fall out of the case body with a couple taps on something solid. That being said the flash hole almost always holds a cumb of media that MUST be removed. Anything small will work and make sure you hold it towards light so you can visibly see light through the hole.

An exception I have recently found was that if you tumble your brass in say corn cob media and then unplug it and let it sit in there for a couple of days it seems to compact and it doesnt always want to come out. Just tumble for 10 min and it loosens right back up.

 

[shibumiseeker]

You could always use a "Q-tip". I have swiped the inside of a case every now and again when I thought something might be in there.

For the previous question, rifle brass should never be flared like pistol brass. Just chamfer and seat the bullet. Yes, you have to hold the bullet until it starts into the case.

Never is a bit strong. I've had some brass that just did not like seating flat base bullets even with a chamfer (fwiw I didn't think to mention chamfering since I assumed it had already been done as part of case prep, mea culpa for assuming).

For the OP, as I said in my original reply, as long as you are not crumpling the case neck, it is not needed. I concede that I should have made it more clear that it's not a common issue. The other posters are absolutely correct, the case mouth should be chamfered as part of case prep. I do it slightly for boattail bullets and more for flat base. I'm editing my posts to reflect this.