Gun refinishing

[1775usmarine]

If it has that dark patina on it you must get it off with the Scotchbrite pad first or it will show through the blue. Proper metal preparation is the largest part of it.

Get a $20-$40 beater rifle or shotgun and play with the take down to metal and bluing and see how easy it is. It gets rid of the nerves and builds confidence.

Im sure if you mess up you can strip it back down and try again. I paid 50 for that 311 so I could tear it down and build it back up that way when the heirlooms go down I'll be able to change out parts without destroying them. Once my project list shrinks I will have to look into doing it myself.

 

[Hookeye]

“patiently” awaiting delivery of my tube of
BLUWONDER ... we lost the dehumidifier last year and all i have been doing since is crying when i opened the safe .... anxious to try this and see if all is not lost !

I just use a rechargeable unit in my safe. So I check every two weeks.
Hunting seasons coming up..........will be in there more often.
But off season...........I am nervous so check em.

 

[Hookeye]

Got a beater A5 coming.
Looks to be perfect for rabbit as is.

My 760 in .35 rem is worn and dinged too.

Yeah I've thought about making it look better.
But then I'd ding the refinished stock and get honked off.

Maybe when it gets super beat up.

 

[Hookeye]

Anybody tried this stuff?

Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner | Remove Rust from Gun Bluing and Clean Dirty Gun Bores Easy!

 

[Mongo59]

I haven't tried it. Regular packs of steel wool are much cheaper and work well with the Blue Wonder cleaner.

 

[Mongo59]

Im sure if you mess up you can strip it back down and try again. I paid 50 for that 311 so I could tear it down and build it back up that way when the heirlooms go down I'll be able to change out parts without destroying them. Once my project list shrinks I will have to look into doing it myself.

Most people who blue will not hot blue a double. By the time you get it up to temp you just may have two singles by the time you are done.

Yes, you can take it back off and try again.

One warning, the more affordable varieties of doubles have a black "paint" to cover the solder lines along the raised rib. If you get over zealous removing the black (not the dirt mind you) the re-blue will never be quite even. Leave the black!

I will recommend a trip to Harbor Freight to get at least two sets of the stainless "dental picks" for cleaning. I keep an old set and a new set. The older rounded off points are perfect for cleaning out the slots in screws and such. The new set is for the writing and scroll work. You will not believe how much better a gun looks simply by cleaning the gunk out of the screw heads.

Grab a couple packs of the small detail brushes while you are there, nylon, brass and stainless and a box of nitrile gloves.

Sometimes, after you go at the gun with the cleaner and steel wool, you will find your job is already done and it looks great as it.

If you find that the rust goes deep you need to decide if just covering to prevent further issues is enough or if you want to go further. If you go further, use emery cloth rather than sand paper.

If it is on a flat surface like the side of a receiver, use a file as a sanding block. Wrap the cloth around the file and cut back and forth. I never use anything more aggressive than 400 to take it down. It takes a long time but you don't get a second chance.

On a standard milled gun 600 will most closely represent factory finish. For a mirror finish like a Colt use 800. Old timers will tell you to buff them but buffing will soften the lines on the edges and make them looked "messed with". The file/block will keep them "high and tight".

If you file or sand on one area and leave the other areas "natural" there will be a difference it the way the metal reacts to the blue and a notable difference in the color.

Most people are worried about being able to blue when they should be worried about preparing the surface. It should take about 5-10 times longer to prepare the surface than to blue if you are doing it right. It does't matter if it is an "easy" job or a "detailed" one.

Don't rush, if you get bored or tired put it down and come back. See what works and what doesn't. Keep the blue paper shop towels around to wipe down the surface when it looks "frosty" except right before you apply the developer. Then just use the developer to get rid of the frost. (It will look better)

When you think you are done take it in good light and look for issues like thinness in the blue. If you find any just wipe it off with the cleaner (no steel wool), warm it up and add more. It is easier that painting.

It might sound difficult to read but you won't know the reward until you wade into it and just give it a try...