Heating Uninsulated Pole Building

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  • bwframe

    Loneranger
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    93   0   0
    Feb 11, 2008
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    Btown Rural
    I like this one purchased a couple years ago. It has a fairly small footprint when running, smaller yet for storage. It has a quieter "jet engine" roar when running, way quieter than the (quick headache) forced air K-1 heaters. Fits on top of a 20# propane tank. Also fairly inexpensive, especially if you shop around.

    41ZkGjHXfuL.jpg


    https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Co...ocphy=9016593&hvtargid=pla-306693447993&psc=1
     

    chezuki

    Human
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    48   0   0
    Mar 18, 2009
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    Behind Bars
    I’ve spent the last 2 days working in a 500 sq/ft garage with one of these and it got so warm I had to lose the hoodie. Fumes are minimal if you have the flame adjusted correctly.

    beige-cream-duraheat-kerosene-heaters-dh2304-64_1000.jpg
     

    schmart

    Sharpshooter
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    5   0   0
    Nov 10, 2014
    567
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    Lafayette
    I've got a 1200 sq ft pole barn. Before I insulated and finished it, I tried warming it up to work on a Cub Scout Christmas parade float. Using both a salamander heater and a turkey fryer burner, we couldn't even get it warm enough to remove gloves. All the heat went straight up and out the ridge vent. I didn't do it, but as others mention, installing a plastic barrier would greatly help out with the convection issue. The only other option I would recommend would be a radiant heater. Since it doesn't warm the air, but rather directs heat right at you, you can get benefits w/o the insulation. Do note it only helps when you are standing in the infrared "light". i.e. you will be COLD underneath a car for instance.
    If the outbuilding is closer to a stick built construction, you likely will have better results as it won't have the steel sides just absorbing any heat available.
    --Rick
     

    ghuns

    Grandmaster
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    2   0   0
    Nov 22, 2011
    9,349
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    :+1: Over and over agin insulation will pay for itself.

    Yep. Just do it.:yesway:

    Our house has an attached 26x32 garage. When my grandpa had it built in 1989, they installed an insulated 16' garage door, fiberglass batts in the walls, and drywall. But for some reason, did NOT insulate the attic. I bought the house when my grandpa passed away in 1995. Ever since, I have struggled to heat it up when I wanted to work out there. A succession of portable heaters were eventually replaced by a small Modine unit heater. Then I installed an outdoor wood boiler and mounted a heat exchanger to the unit heater and turned off its gas. It worked well, unless the temperature drops to negative territory. Then I could keep my garage about 50 degrees over the outside temp. Generally though, I set the thermostat for 45 degrees. But it took A LOT of firewood.

    This fall, I blew over 100 bags of cellulose insulation in the garage attic, and in the breezeway that connects the garage to the house. Should be good for close to R50. The last few days up here have gotten into the teens overnight. My garage has yet to drop below 50 degrees, and the heater isn't even running.

    I have about $800 and weekend in that insulation job. I have wood piles set up based on an estimate of what I'll burn each month. I started lit the fire at the beginning of November, and I'm still burning wood from that November pile.
     

    glank09

    Marksman
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    8   0   0
    Mar 27, 2013
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    Corunna
    Thanks all for the recommendations. I think for this year I will look into a small heater and section off only the small area I am working in. Next summer I will look into insulating.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
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    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
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    Speedway area
    Thanks all for the recommendations. I think for this year I will look into a small heater and section off only the small area I am working in. Next summer I will look into insulating.

    Make sure you do the rafters as well. If not you will loose any heat that is put in there.
     

    HoughMade

    Grandmaster
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    0   0   0
    Oct 24, 2012
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    Valparaiso
    I’ve spent the last 2 days working in a 500 sq/ft garage with one of these and it got so warm I had to lose the hoodie. Fumes are minimal if you have the flame adjusted correctly.

    beige-cream-duraheat-kerosene-heaters-dh2304-64_1000.jpg

    This is what I would go with. Radiant Kerosene heat is quiet and comfortable. Smell? Not much after start up.
     

    edporch

    Master
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    25   0   0
    Oct 19, 2010
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    Indianapolis
    I used a L.B. White barn heater, which is now for sale here since I have insulated/sealed up the shop. Mine is 24x32 and it could definitely bring the temp up quick. Way fewer fumes and quieter than the Kero salamanders I've used. Also gives you a thermostat etc.

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...07-l-b-white-classic-60-barn-shop-heater.html

    Make sure you have plenty of ventilation if you use one of these.
    I had an White heater in a large high ceilinged cement block building and it quickly used up the air.

    I switched it out for a Reznor heater that took in outside air and exhausted it to the outside.
    Couldn't be happier, and a lot less chance of an explosion.
     

    Fargo

    Grandmaster
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    13   0   0
    Mar 11, 2009
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    In a state of acute Pork-i-docis
    Make sure you have plenty of ventilation if you use one of these.
    I had an White heater in a large high ceilinged cement block building and it quickly used up the air.

    I switched it out for a Reznor heater that took in outside air and exhausted it to the outside.
    Couldn't be happier, and a lot less chance of an explosion.
    I was using it in an uninsulated pole building like the OP's so make up air wasn't an issue as evidenced by the CO1 readings on multiple detectors. I would not use one in any sort of sealed building, not enough make up air and too much moisture put back in the air. I would be less worried about an explosion and more worried about carbon monoxide.
     

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