Help with ceiling crack damage opinnion, contractors/structural advice HELP!!!

[ISHOOTHST'S]

Can I get some advice on this damage/crack? I am potentially making an offer on this house and the living room has a crack where the joists meet in the center all the way across it and starting to go down the wall. It is not wet looking at all. Also in the bedroom looks like the same crack extends across it. Any input or advice would be helpful. Thanks.

[video=youtube;qFaQgXOQC9o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFaQgXOQC9o[/video]

 

[CathyInBlue]

That house sits on the confluence of two powerful ley lines. Any day now, a massive rift is going to open up and the veil between the realms will be torn in twain, as will the house.

Just funnin'.

Looks like whoever designed/built that house doesn't understand what roofs are for. That crack formed because every year when the roof loads up with snow, it sags a little bit. The point where the roof rests on the outside walls has to do two radicly different jobs. One is hold the roof and snow load verticly off the ground. The other is to remain vertical themselves, and not splay out from the center. Generally, that latter job is handled by the use of roof ties, a.k.a. ceiling joists on the top floor. Whoever designed/built that house got overly enamoured of the concept of the cathedral ceiling. Thing is, cathedrals manage those massively vertical interior spaces because they have a nifty architectural feature called a "flying buttress" on the outside that helps with those two jobs roofs have to do, especially the second. Betcha $10k, that house doesn't have flying buttresses on the outside.

When you build a house without roof ties of any kind, every time the roof is loaded, that ridge beam sags and the tops of the walls where the roof connects bow out, and you get drywall cracks. You can spackle that sucker shut all you want, it's just gonna keep crackin' every time the roof loads up again.

My recommendation, for whoever buys that house next, be it you or whoever, is to dispense with the cathedral ceiling to the greatest degree possible. Circular saw out the drywall in that roof ridge, jack up the ridge beam to take the slack out of it and make it straight again, cut and install roof ties to form a new, flat ceiling center, reinsulate, install new ceiling drywall, paint, enjoy.

 

[david890]

If that's a relatively new house, it's probably normal settling, or perhaps the result of an unusually heavy snow load. The crack appears to be where the drywall tape has separated from the drywall; a closer inspection (ladder needed) would show if it's the drywall itself.

If I were to buy it, I'd install some exposed beams spanning the opposing walls; that should reinforce what might be a weak structure. The beams would provide cable chases for an electric fan, etc.

Finally, get a 6' level and check the plumb of the walls. I suspect they'll show the walls bowing very slightly outward. Not necessarily a deal-breaker, but it would indicate the need for more roof support (such as exposed beams spanning the room), especially if you anticipate future loading of the roof with heavy snow or ice.

 

[BigBoxaJunk]

I experienced a similar problem with my house. After several failed fixes and a lot of research, I discovered that my problem was caused by "Truss Uplift".

Truss uplift is a relatively new thing, since older houses don't typically have trusses. It's caused by the truss flexing during the winter time, because the top part, which is against the roof sheeting, gets really cold while the bottom part, which is under the insulation, stays warm. Most new houses are framed and dry-walled in such a way to prevent this, but mine was built before many builders knew what to do.

My problem was at the point where the wall meets the ceiling and I was able to fix it with some trouble, three or so years ago with no more cracks. The peak of my cathedral ceiling is covered by a fake beam, so I don't know if it's cracked or not.

 

[ISHOOTHST'S]

Main concern was bowing and that its starting to go down the wall. Like you said going over it would just be pointless like suspected. Thanks. If anyone else has input please advise.

 

[shunsley]

I experienced a similar problem with my house. After several failed fixes and a lot of research, I discovered that my problem was caused by "Truss Uplift".

Truss uplift is a relatively new thing, since older houses don't typically have trusses. It's caused by the truss flexing during the winter time, because the top part, which is against the roof sheeting, gets really cold while the bottom part, which is under the insulation, stays warm. Most new houses are framed and dry-walled in such a way to prevent this, but mine was built before many builders knew what to do.

My problem was at the point where the wall meets the ceiling and I was able to fix it with some trouble, three or so years ago with no more cracks. The peak of my cathedral ceiling is covered by a fake beam, so I don't know if it's cracked or not.

Is it a CP Morgan house. They were famous for that and I should know. I was there model home maintenance guy. I had to fix all of their ceilings that did that.

 

[CHCRandy]

Is it a CP Morgan house. They were famous for that and I should know. I was there model home maintenance guy. I had to fix all of their ceilings that did that.

I doubt if it is CP Morgan. It has vaulted ceilings and no texture on walls.

I think it is probably just settling. Look at that ridge from outside.....if the ridge isnt sagging outside....that means it is just rafter or joist settling. Perhaps they didnt use hangers/straps on that vault beam......where about is that house located? Avon by chance?

 

[RobbyMaQ]

If it's just settling and cracking at the joint/tape, the silicone flexes in corners... just sayin'

 

[BigBoxaJunk]

Is it a CP Morgan house. They were famous for that and I should know. I was there model home maintenance guy. I had to fix all of their ceilings that did that.

TK constructors

My vaulted ceilings have Y trusses. The vaulted ceiling area has only had a few cracks. The part of the house with the regular trusses is where the truss uplift was the worst.

One way to tell truss uplift is that, in the summertime, the cracks close up, and in the winter they open back up again, until you fix it.

 

[CHCRandy]

TK constructors

My vaulted ceilings have Y trusses. The vaulted ceiling area has only had a few cracks. The part of the house with the regular trusses is where the truss uplift was the worst.

One way to tell truss uplift is that, in the summertime, the cracks close up, and in the winter they open back up again, until you fix it.

I have seen trusses lift 2-3 inches off of the plates below them. A simple cure for this is to make sure your framer nails them to the plates when framing. Most guys now days throw and go...build some walls, stand some trusses and throw down decking, over time the bottom of the truss/ceiling joist tries to bow upwards.

I personally hate a truss roof, especially when they go 2 foot on center with H clips. Jack leg way of doing things. It's not much cheaper, if any, to buy trusses. And a good framer will tell you he would rather custom cut rafters and ceiling joists than to mess with truss layouts. The problem is finding a good framer now days........

 

[ISHOOTHST'S]

It was built by Davis homes and the big worry is that it went from the ceiling and starting down the wall. Same place in the master bedroom as well.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Cathedral ceilings depend on structure for stability. My house is nearly 30 years old with two cathedral ceilings, and the only drywall problems are due to the gang of vandals that built the place. I do hate those people. Anyway, each edge of each ceiling has a solid wall down to a concrete footer. I have the prints and understand them. Very solid, very stable. There has been no snow damage.

 

[Harleyrider_50]

I have seen trusses lift 2-3 inches off of the plates below them. A simple cure for this is to make sure your framer nails them to the plates when framing. Most guys now days throw and go...build some walls, stand some trusses and throw down decking, over time the bottom of the truss/ceiling joist tries to bow upwards.

I personally hate a truss roof, especially when they go 2 foot on center with H clips. Jack leg way of doing things. It's not much cheaper, if any, to buy trusses. And a good framer will tell you he would rather custom cut rafters and ceiling joists than to mess with truss layouts. The problem is finding a good framer now days........

....TRUE words.......ALL of it.....yer only save'n 1 piece o' lumber ever 4 feet.....I'll take at least 16" on center all day, ever day....

IS good framers out'ere......but nobody wants ta PAY'em......

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Oh heck, I go on 12" centers when I build something; If I have to live with it, I want the best. Pay once, cry once.