Help with diagnosing an electricclothes dryer

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  • joslar15

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    We have a Kenmore w/d that came with the house. House was built in 05.

    The problem: Dryer starts, get hot, then shuts down after 5-10 mins, will not restart immediately.

    My ideas: A: Defective timer- I have not checked to see how long it takes to shutdown. I've pretty much dismissed this idea because it will not restart immediately.
    B: Defective, or actually functioning high limit switch, which leads to the question what is triggering the limit switch. Lint filter is clean.

    Is there anything I have missed in my diagnosis. I have yet to pull the dryer and put the test meter on.

    Other suggestions?
     

    planedriver

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    I'm going with cancer....lol... What experience has taught me... Save the aggravation and service calls. Find one on sale and buy it. Believe me in the short run it's cheaper.
     

    Lectric102002

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    .- ...- --- -.
    If the high limit is going out, it has to be air flow. Pull the lint filter and check in the box where it goes. My wife pulled a crap ton of lint out of ours the other day.
     

    BigBoxaJunk

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    If the high limit is going out, it has to be air flow. Pull the lint filter and check in the box where it goes. My wife pulled a crap ton of lint out of ours the other day.

    I can second that. I was fixing something on our dryer some years ago and I took the filter out, then I opened the duct-like area where the fan is and I found all kinds of stuff.
     

    1911ly

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    I agree with it being an air flow problem. Disconnect the vent hose and see if it temps out. It it does you might have lint build up on the sail switch (air flow switch). Try a good cleaning. If not that then the temp sensor switch might be bad.
     

    GodFearinGunTotin

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    Mitchell
    I agree with it being an air flow problem. Disconnect the vent hose and see if it temps out. It it does you might have lint build up on the sail switch (air flow switch). Try a good cleaning. If not that then the temp sensor switch might be bad.

    I agree with Larry and his troubleshooting strategy. How does the air flow feel coming out of the vent, at the side of your house? Compare that with how it feels with the dryer pulled out and the exhaust hose disconnected. The last electric dryer I had to work on the heating elements was quite a bit older than '05 but I was able to take the back cover off and a couple more ducts and misc. pieces of sheet metal...if you can do that, you can probably, pretty well inspect the entire air flow path for blockages.

    You might google that temperature switch and just get a replacement. It's entirely possible it's simply gone bad.
     

    Fargo

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    I recently had the same problem with a LG frontloader. Tested the switches and element for continuity and everything checked out. Had given up and was putting it back together when I looked inside the housing for the lint trap, and voila, it was partially packed with lint. Cleaned it and it runs like a champ.
     

    joslar15

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    I ordered an element for it last year. I figured it was an airflow problem setting off the high limit switch. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking anything before I tear into it. It's in a small closet and it is a PITA to have a nice area to work.
     

    1911ly

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    It's usually easier to work on if you lay it on it's back or side. You can't test it that way but you can get to a lot of it. Look at and place there is a bend in the air flow. Best of luck. Post back on how it goes.
     

    joslar15

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    I agree with it being an air flow problem. Disconnect the vent hose and see if it temps out. It it does you might have lint build up on the sail switch (air flow switch). Try a good cleaning. If not that then the temp sensor switch might be bad.

    Tried this, no joy. F'it, new one coming on Sat.
     

    Crbn79

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    May 4, 2014
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    We have a Kenmore w/d that came with the house. House was built in 05.

    The problem: Dryer starts, get hot, then shuts down after 5-10 mins, will not restart immediately.

    My ideas: A: Defective timer- I have not checked to see how long it takes to shutdown. I've pretty much dismissed this idea because it will not restart immediately.
    B: Defective, or actually functioning high limit switch, which leads to the question what is triggering the limit switch. Lint filter is clean.

    Is there anything I have missed in my diagnosis. I have yet to pull the dryer and put the test meter on.

    Other suggestions?

    Haven't read through it all, but is sounds like a bimetal heat limit. They usually have one located just beyond the turn within the exhaust port on the back. They get caked with lint and grim causing them to overheat and engage the limit. The dryer won't engage again until the limit resets by cooling down.
     
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