Home defense barrel woo ha ha

[Jsomerset]

Bought a 1943 mdl 37 from a guy at work that cut the barrel off at about 19 inches but did a really bad job of it, its crooked, looks like he may have finished his cut with snapping the last little bit off. Ran the hacksaw blade up and down the barrel to beautify it the last little bit. I'm looking for someone with a lathe to square up the end maybe put a bead on it on the cheap. If not I'll just throw it in the vice and take a grinder to it. Thanks, Jerry. I'm in the Wabash area.

 

[bobjones223]

Bought a 1943 mdl 37 from a guy at work that cut the barrel off at about 19 inches but did a really bad job of it, its crooked, looks like he may have finished his cut with snapping the last little bit off. Ran the hacksaw blade up and down the barrel to beautify it the last little bit. I'm looking for someone with a lathe to square up the end maybe put a bead on it on the cheap. If not I'll just throw it in the vice and take a grinder to it. Thanks, Jerry. I'm in the Wabash area.

Ok I know this is going to make the perfectionists cringe here but I have used a pipe tubing cutter on a barrel before and it worked really well. Just a thought but it is just a shotgun after all not a precision rifle. Once you get through it you just need to deburr the inside and round the edges.

Just my two cents on a cheep fix.

 

[Gluemanz28]

Bought a 1943 mdl 37 from a guy at work that cut the barrel off at about 19 inches but did a really bad job of it, its crooked, looks like he may have finished his cut with snapping the last little bit off. Ran the hacksaw blade up and down the barrel to beautify it the last little bit. I'm looking for someone with a lathe to square up the end maybe put a bead on it on the cheap. If not I'll just throw it in the vice and take a grinder to it. Thanks, Jerry. I'm in the Wabash area.

I would not put a grinder on the barrel. A belt sander with fine grit belt or flat fine bastard file is the best bet. Go slow and don't get the barrel too hot. If it for home defense you really don't need a bead on the front because you will most likely be pointing and shooting anyway.

 

[Jsomerset]

Ok I know this is going to make the perfectionists cringe here but I have used a pipe tubing cutter on a barrel before and it worked really well. Just a thought but it is just a shotgun after all not a precision rifle. Once you get through it you just need to deburr the inside and round the edges.

Just my two cents on a cheep fix.

that was my first idea but it would make it shorter than the legal limit once I get the wheel far enough down the barrel to keep the cutting wheel tracking stright. Thanks Bob.

 

[Jsomerset]

I've decided to take a 2x4 6" long, drill 2 - 1/4" bolt holes, one on each end though the 2x4 from top to bottom of the 4" dimension then bore a 1-7/8" hole in the center of the flat face of the 6" dimension then cut in half so I end up with 2 - 2x2's 6" long with half a 1-7/8" hole on each peace, slide the barrel through the base of the drill press, clamp the 2 by's around the barrel, chuck up a thin cut off wheel on the end of a bolt, walk the barrel up to the cut off wheel and slowly rotate. Should make for a square and true barrel end. As for the bead it's more of a cosmetic thing it just irritates me looking at it everyday and for hunting bunny's in the briars. Or maybe put ramp sights on it, now that would be sweet a 1943 deer slayer. Thanks Elmer.

 

[BogWalker]

Tell us how it works out and remember to check your length afterwards just to be safe.

 

[Jsomerset]

Sure will Bog

 

[DapperDan]

If the barrel is at 19" then technically you have 1" that could come off of it. Take off a 1/4" or so, 1/2" at the most, to keep any legal issues at bay. When you check the final length it's from the tip of the barrel to the closed bolt. Good luck and I think you'll find this to be a pretty easy fix

 

[Jsomerset]

Thanks Dan

 

[Amishman44]

Make sure you get some 400 or 600 grit sandpaper to do the final smoothing...it'll really make things nice when you're all said-n-done!

 

[Jsomerset]

Thanks Amish, think I will try to put a rust blue job on it too. Always wanted to try it. Perfect gun for it.

 

[gunworks321]

I'd offer to chuck it up in my lathe for ya, but you probably don't want to drive to Noblesviile. Or do ya?
No charge for the lathe work. About a 5 minute job.

 

[Jsomerset]

Thanks Works. That's a mighty kind offer and I might just take you up on it as I have a few friends there in noblesville. I wouldn't be able to accept your free offer though. Send a PM with a way to contact you I can't PM back on account of the 50 post rule. Thanks again.

 

[6mm Shoot]

Brownells has a tool that you slide into the barrel then turn the cutter till it is flat. I think it goes for $50. The neat thing about it is it will true it with out taking any more than you have to to get it true.

 

[Jsomerset]

Thanks 6 I might look into that. Probably not though as I only gave 50 for the gun and I'm trying to see how cheap I can convert it for and have a little braging material for the sweetest under $100 home defense gun. On the other hand I have a couple old mod. 12's and since the market has fallen so far for them I might convert them too and give them to the kids. I take it you are a 6mm fan? Have one of those babes at my disposal to. My brothers and I have killed many a ground hog with it. Best shot I've ever seen was with it by my brother at 400 + yrds prone free hand laying in a field of about 10" high alfalfa and by his army buddy on let's say a flying object in a sitting position with object at least 300yrds high. It's a plain Jane 700 rem. Just now getting back into shooting sports after about a 25 year hibernation. Was looking for some ammo for the 6 and it looks like a car payment a month to shoot now.

 

[6mm Shoot]

Jsomerset if you are spending the average house payment on shooting a 6mm then you need to start reloading. The average price of 243 is a round $20 a box of 20. So a $1 a round. My reloads cost me abut 1/3 that and they are more accurate than anything I can buy.

Yes I like the 6mm. I have it in 243 and 6mm X 45 in a AR. Both will shoot less than a inch at 100 yards. Best group with 243 is .56 and the 6X45 will do a little better than that when I am fresh and do my part. One of the great thing about the 6mm is all the bullets that you can get for it. They run from 45gr to over 100gr for some of the target bullets. Recoil is light and you don't need a bull barrel to get good accuracy.

Just a thought for you. If you buy the tool and do the barrels that you want you can sell it on the net for what you paid or close to it.

 

[Jsomerset]

Good idea Shoot. My brother has a multi stage for reloading 12ga. I'll find out if you can change it out for center fire stuff. 33ct. a rd. sounds very doable. What is your formula. All we shot was off the shelf back then.

 

[gunworks321]

Thanks Works. That's a mighty kind offer and I might just take you up on it as I have a few friends there in noblesville. I wouldn't be able to accept your free offer though. Send a PM with a way to contact you I can't PM back on account of the 50 post rule. Thanks again.

You're almost there (50). I sent pm today with e-mail contact. Let me know. as for the offer, that's what INGO is all about...Community and friends!

 

[6mm Shoot]

I don't know of a shot loader that can be changed to center fire rounds.

A load that my Savage likes it 34 gr of IMR4895 under 100gr Sierra SP BT Game King. Oh, Winchester brass was used as well as CCI primers.

Now that was a load that my Savage likes but my TC only thinks it's average. So as proven many times what works in one rifle don't in an other. In the end you will have to work up your own loads.

If you are going to start reloading it isn't cheap to start out. Lee presses work well and are about the cheapest in price. They sell kits that have every thing you need except for dies and the components. You will also need load data books. I have always used at least two to check each to make sure that the loads are close to each other. You can also get load data from the powder makers on the net. The load data books are sold by the bullet makers. They have a lot of good information in them.

 

[Hookeye]

I used 4895 for years and switched to 4350 in my .243's.
Shorter tubes have some blast, but the accuracy is great.
Only load I've run is 70 gr Nosler BT on max charges.
My BDL, two ADL, Savage and 600 and Model 7's all loved it.
My coworkers Pre 64 Model 70 varmint with Unertyl..........punched em under an inch...........at 200 (and that rifle was mint- what a sweetheart).
It had Canjar, and we noticed that using it, or not using it, shifted the POI.

Pops got a Lyman Mag T (older orange version). I'm gonna snag it after he repaints it.
Really loved my little Spar T (where most of the 70 gr Nosler loads were done).

Lee collet dies for neck sizing, and Lee ram prime.........only Lee products I like.

Only .243's I have now are a Ruger #1 and a Rem 700 ADL.
Pops does have a Savage in 6mm Norma BR..........and his old Savage lefty .243, which was rebarreled by Penrod.