How do I adjust my scope??

[churchmouse]

I'm having a hard time visualizing this method. What flat part on the bottom of the scope are you referring to?

Usually under the adjustment section it is flat. It is on my Vortex pieces. Get the optic tight enough that it takes a little effort to turn. Fill that space between the optic and the rail with the gauges. You will have to mix them up to find the exact thickness to fill the gap and hold the optic square to the rail.

 

[churchmouse]

After years of using a different method in the military and after I switched to the 50 yard/ 10 yard zero, because it's great for point and shoot.

at 10 yards set up your target with 2 dots spaced exactly 2" apart vertically. Point of aim is the top dot and the the bottom is point of impact. Once you get this set go shoot it at 50 yards to verify and do any final adjustments. The 50 yard zero is great for close up shooting and out to even 400 yards and further with certain hold overs. Plus by only sighting in initially at 10 yards it's easy to see without magnification even and hold steady enough. Because you need to zero your backup sights too not just your scopes. Zero the scopes at 50 yards because you will be able to easily see, and the irons at 10 for the 50 and verify at 50.

Good luck and congrats again on the new rifles

oh and mounting your scope properly is very important but if you feel overwhealmed by it no worries, most shops can do it for you cheaply.
I never blamed people for using that service but some people can't even clean their own guns and pay to have it done seriously. If you do that I will laugh at you

Interesting.

 

[chezuki]

Usually under the adjustment section it is flat. It is on my Vortex pieces. Get the optic tight enough that it takes a little effort to turn. Fill that space between the optic and the rail with the gauges. You will have to mix them up to find the exact thickness to fill the gap and hold the optic square to the rail.

You can do this with just a steel ruler as well.

 

[chezuki]

Ruler method

Feeler gauge method

 

[Dustycoyote]

Haha

"Somewhere" is in the Salt Lake City area, so it would be quite a drive....
Thank you though. Really nice to be among people that are so willing to help out...

 

[Dustycoyote]

That last comment was in response to churchmouse...

SO if I go buy the feeler gauge and just use enough blades to loosely fit under the scope base, and then tighten up the ring screws (I would assume I need to tighten them in a pattern like lugs nuts?...) then check to make sure the clearance for the feeler tool hasn't changed... I should be golden, correct?

 

[chezuki]

That last comment was in response to churchmouse...

SO if I go buy the feeler gauge and just use enough blades to loosely fit under the scope base, and then tighten up the ring screws (I would assume I need to tighten them in a pattern like lugs nuts?...) then check to make sure the clearance for the feeler tool hasn't changed... I should be golden, correct?

All you're doing is leveling the scope on the rifle. Super easy on flat top rifles.

 

[churchmouse]

That last comment was in response to churchmouse...

SO if I go buy the feeler gauge and just use enough blades to loosely fit under the scope base, and then tighten up the ring screws (I would assume I need to tighten them in a pattern like lugs nuts?...) then check to make sure the clearance for the feeler tool hasn't changed... I should be golden, correct?

Bottom right of the post you wish to quote is a "Reply with quote" selection.
Click on it and then put in your response.

Get the scope tight enough that it does not turn easily....get it visually level. Fill the gap with the gauges. You will move the scope to get it squared up as you fill the gap. Then tighten it down. Pull out the stack.

Use one of the methods above to get the POI set. Go to the range and fine tune the optic.

 

[Rookie]

I don't think you HAVE to tighten them like lug nuts, but I do.

 

[churchmouse]

I don't think you HAVE to tighten them like lug nuts, but I do.

I do a criss cross pattern more out of habit than anything.

 

[LarryC]

Personally I have never felt the need for any laser or other scope alignment aid. I have mounted scopes on rifles (and a handgun or two) over a period of over 60 years, long before lasers were even dreamed up. The only reason to use a bore laser is to align the scope so you will be on target paper. When you shoot the target then you align the scope to aim properly and never use the laser again. I just mount the scope properly, then shoot at a fairly large target at 25 yards or so, I have never failed to be on paper using this method often off only an inch or two.

After I adjust the scope for the 25 yard (usually so the bullet impacts a 1/2 to an inch high when I am aiming at the bullseye, dependent on the scope height off the bore), I move to the 100 yard range and do my final adjustments. This method has orked well for me for a very long time. I think you will find if you are trying to align to the laser, you will never be accurate, especially if you are not shooting off a lead sled, everyone has a slightly different scope alignment to be accurate, as each person moves the rifle slightly during trigger pull etc.

 

[tradertator]

First off, Kudos on the LWRC. Really nice rifle choice.

It looks like leveling the scope to the rifle has already been explained. I like to do it a little different however, if it's going to be used for precision shooting. This is probably overkill if you don't plan to stretch the rifle out to longer distances however, and requires a scope mounted level.

Put your rings on the rifle, and mount the scope loose enough that you can turn it without marring it, yet tight enough that it doesn't move on it's own.
Take a sheet of paper, and draw a level horizontal line across it using a 4 ft level.
Then get the rifle in the position you plan to shoot it from the most (usually prone), in a comfortable, natural position that you can sustain for an extended period of time.
Then level the horizontal line in the scopes reticle, to the horizontal line you drew on the paper, by turning the scope body.
Then mount a level on the scope (my favorite is Accuracy First = Accuracy 1st: Scope Levels: Civilian), to ensure that you are shooting from that same position every time you dial the scope.
Tighten down your screws in a criss-cross pattern (like you mentioned with lug nuts), and ensure that the gap between the ring top and bottom is the same on both sides. Typically you tighten your ring tops to around 20 inch pounds unless instructed by the manufacturer otherwise, and it's best to use a torque driver. If you don't have one available to you, tighten the screws using the little end of your torx / allen wrench.
Once the screws are tight (As long as the ring top has 4 or more screws), remove 1, apply a minimal amount of loctite, tighten, and repeat with the others 1 at a time.

As far as eye relief goes, you generally want the scope out as far from your eye as possible without getting "boxed" out. This will change with different magnification settings, so make sure to check them all. Once you roughly have it where you want it, fine tune by turning the adjustment on the eye piece. Also, make sure you do this from the position you plan to shoot the rifle from the most.

Then zero the rifle in accordance to how you plan to shoot it. 100 meters / yards is a good number if you plan to dial for longer shots. 25 or 50 meter / yard zero is good if you plan to use it for home defense. I typically do a 25 meter zero on a military 300 meter target for home / self defense stuff, and a 100 meter zero on everything else.

Also, keep in mind that your laser bore sight is simply to get your shot on the paper and is no substitute for actually zero'ing your rifle. It will often times get you relatively close, but don't put too much faith in it.

 

[churchmouse]

Personally I have never felt the need for any laser or other scope alignment aid. I have mounted scopes on rifles (and a handgun or two) over a period of over 60 years, long before lasers were even dreamed up. The only reason to use a bore laser is to align the scope so you will be on target paper. When you shoot the target then you align the scope to aim properly and never use the laser again. I just mount the scope properly, then shoot at a fairly large target at 25 yards or so, I have never failed to be on paper using this method often off only an inch or two.

After I adjust the scope for the 25 yard (usually so the bullet impacts a 1/2 to an inch high when I am aiming at the bullseye, dependent on the scope height off the bore), I move to the 100 yard range and do my final adjustments. This method has orked well for me for a very long time. I think you will find if you are trying to align to the laser, you will never be accurate, especially if you are not shoot off a lead sled, everyone has a slightly different scope alignment to be accurate, as each person moves the rifle slightly during trigger pull etc.

Well...........we all have a process.
Mine is done in a back yard in the Speedway area 25 yds. to my fence. Perfect to laser in an optic on an AR or a long gun so that I am on paper when I do get the rifle or AR out to shoot it.
As most of the places I get to shoot a rifle of any kind in a relaxed atmosphere are over an hour out the opportunity and time needed for this is not always available. So, using the laser gets me a solid on paper dial in with minimal time/effort. It reduces the ammo spent in when I do get to shoot the rifle. Starting on paper is a plus for some of us city folks...

I used to use the bore sighting method. I have a jig to hold a rifle. Pull the bolt and sight directly down the bore. It worked but was more time consuming.
The laser is cheap and a real time saver. It works in my hand guns as well.
It is a tool to teach trigger discipline to new shooters.
I understand not wanting one. But once you use it as i do it is part of your go to tools.

JMHO of course. Do what works for you.

 

[tradertator]

My favorite bore sight is the Leupold Zero Point. It seems like I can get a scope dialed in closer using it than anything else I've tried.

 

[42769vette]

My favorite bore sighter is a bullet. Nothing cheaper, or more precise on the market.

 

[Dustycoyote]

So, after I boresite it to get a rough zero. Do I need to buy some high quality ammo to fine tune it?
I've bought some Winchester 223, federal xm855 stuff, and have some xm193 partisan on the way. Is any of that good enough to dial it in?
Recommendations?

 

[churchmouse]

My favorite bore sighter is a bullet. Nothing cheaper, or more precise on the market.

Yeah well.........I hate you right now.....

 

[churchmouse]

So, after I boresite it to get a rough zero. Do I need to buy some high quality ammo to fine tune it?
I've bought some Winchester 223, federal xm855 stuff, and have some xm193 partisan on the way. Is any of that good enough to dial it in?
Recommendations?

I shoot good old 55 grain average stuff out past 400 in all of mine. I am not shooting groups but they will punish some steel.

You will have to see what your rifle likes.

Smarty pants......I mean Allen should have some ideas for you. He can shoot 200 or so off of his couch.....