How much oil is to much?

[AllenM]

I swear when I clean my guns, pistols in particular. Although my AR's suffer from this as well.
When I clean I try to put on what I think is a light coat of oil on the slides/moving parts.
But after a trip to the range they look like the need new valve cover gaskets.

I'm using Miltech 1 maybe something different?

 

[ghitch75]

i just put 1 or 2 drops on...but thats me...

 

[Davis0023]

Depends on the gun. Glock(s), not much, I have a tarsus that uses oil like a 88 Olds ,lol not really uses, but needs a touch more.
But it also depends on the purpose for the oil. It in a place of metal to metal contact or just a light coat to protect metal, then a dab will do. If there is metal to metal then you need to add a little more. This is the system I have followed for years and has worked great for me, and those I have taught. Of course let me say this is IMO for I know there will be several people leaping to call me wrong..lol

 

[Lead Head]

Some people intentionally use the "wet method" to lubricate their firearm depending on what it is, time of year, type of ammo, environment, etc. A small amount of seepage after emptying a few magazines is not that big of deal unless you are in a desert. Just wipe it down and keep shooting.

I've tried a variety of lubes and like Break Free CLP as a liquid but a little goes a long way. Try to apply it with a toothpick or some other soft applicator tip. Don't just drop it on from the bottle. You can mop up excess lube with a variety of tools including a q-tip but be careful not to leave little cotton hairs.

I really like this lube:

Gun Grease - Synthetic Gun Grease

It's a white synthetic gun grease and is very controllable during application. It seem to almost disappear and has a very low residue level yet is super slick.

Keep in mind that if you carry or shoot outdoors in the cold, the lube you use can be affected by the cold temperatures. (Like oil weight for your car).

Some people use powder based lubes made from graphite, etc. in real cold condtions but I find even the best graphite powders to have some amount of abrasion. I've tried it with folding knives but would never use it on a gun unless I was in the extreme northern climates or at high altitude.

btw: Even good ol' Rem or Hoppes brand Oil will get you by, just don't over do it.

 

[WhitleyStu]

There are lubricants that migrate like CLP and those that don't like Kellube. I like lube that stays in place like Kellube or a light grease like ProGold.

 

[Drail]

Go to a crafts store and buy a stenciling brush. It looks like a miniature shaving brush. Drip 2 or 3 drops of CLP or whatever you like onto the brush and "paint" it on. It will leave a nice thin coat. On slide rails or bolts or barrel bushings put it on a little heavier. Brushing oil or rust preventative on the outside allows you to get it into every small crevice and recess and even into checkering. I worked at gun show tables for years and this is how we kept all our display guns from rusting after hundreds of people handled them with who knows what on their hands. Much better than a rag.

 

[Leo]

Drail suggests a good method. I use a simple tooth pick as a oil applicator. Dip the tooth pick into the oil, the little bit that comes off when youi touch it to the part needing lube, is usually enough. I use the same method to put Lubriplate on slide rails. A tooth pick will keep you from over doing the lube.

 

[sloughfoot]

And now we are headed into winter where no oil is best. The AR that I oil in the summertime for matches needs to be dry when it is 10 below.

All those guys that advocate synthetic motor oil obviously don't bring the rifle out and make it work when it is cold.

 

[bwframe]

Go to a crafts store and buy a stenciling brush. It looks like a miniature shaving brush. Drip 2 or 3 drops of CLP or whatever you like onto the brush and "paint" it on. It will leave a nice thin coat. On slide rails or bolts or barrel bushings put it on a little heavier. Brushing oil or rust preventative on the outside allows you to get it into every small crevice and recess and even into checkering. I worked at gun show tables for years and this is how we kept all our display guns from rusting after hundreds of people handled them with who knows what on their hands. Much better than a rag.

Is this that brush?

Fine Natural Bristle Cleaning Gun Oil Application Brush

 

[netsecurity]

Drip 2 or 3 drops of CLP or whatever you like onto the brush and "paint" it on. It will leave a nice thin coat...
Brushing oil or rust preventative on the outside allows you to get it into every small crevice and recess...

That's pretty much my method after cleaning (or instead of cleaning if I'm in a hurry). Except I just use the plastic bristled cleaning brush, like the "toothbrush" that comes with an AR cleaning kit. I put a few drops directly on to the bristles, then brush the bolt or slide evenly until all areas are shiny. I don't worry about applying drops of oil to specific areas like the slide of a pistol, because by brushing both surfaces where they mate, the oil will natuarly combine to be heavier there.

I use Slip2000 on my AR15, and BreakFree CLP on all others pretty much. I like the bolt to look shiny wet, but to feel fairly dry. I'm fairly certain I like to use more oil than most people. Unless there is an environmental reason to use a "dry" oil, I think the gun is happier to have good lubrication.

 

[Drail]

That looks like a shaving brush to me but I'm not sure of its size. The guy who taught me this trick was actually using a shaving brush but he was doing racks full of long guns. Any type of round brush that allows you to cover small areas neatly will work. Natural bristle works much better with oils than nylon. After you use it for a while it will retain enough oil to "paint" several pistols without having to add more. I think that brush would work swell.

 

[AllenM]

A lot of good advice here. Methods and lubes I haven't tried, that is what I was hoping for that I have not tried

And now we are headed into winter where no oil is best. The AR that I oil in the summertime for matches needs to be dry when it is 10 below.

All those guys that advocate synthetic motor oil obviously don't bring the rifle out and make it work when it is cold.

Funny you should say that, I was thinking of a synthetic transmission fluid

 

[Drail]

ATF (Dexron - any brand) is an excellent lube and has been used by many folks for years. It is very inexpensive (per oz.) and works very well in firearms. It has good carbon cutting qualities. I have been using it for a couple of years in the shop on my 1911 rails/bushings and for anything that needs a light oil. It works really well as a lock lubricant. It won't evaporate away and turn into a gummy varnish like a lot of other popular lubes. It was originally developed as a replacement for sperm whale oil which is probably the finest machine oil that we have ever had on this planet. No longer available though. In extreme cold or dusty conditions no oil is best but only for short periods or wear will get out of hand.

 

[NIFT]

Although different guns have different needs for lubrication, my experience is people tend to over-lubricate guns grossly.
The result:
Excess oil gets into actions where it should not be; it combines with powder residue, dirt, and other particulate to form a sludge that wears the gun out faster and can cause it to malfunction.

For example, the most common service that Glock has to do to pistols sent to the Smyrna, GA facility is cleaning inside the slide, because the owners have put oil, solvent, and other things in them, causing malfuntion from a build up of sludge.

Here's my basic take on oiling a gun: if you can see the oil, it is too much.
In general, put a tiny drop of oil on only the recommended lubrication points and surfaces; then, wipe it off with a finger until you cannot see oil--it is just an exceedingly light film.

As at least one other poster also pointed out--in very cold weather, oil gets thick and will cause a gun to malfuntion. Many guns run well dry, especially in winter cold.

 

[Leo]

On the subject of COLD weather lube, I have buddies that are avid hunters that cut open Vitamin E or Fish oil capsules and use that as lube. They have found that the fish oil does not get sluggish in the frigid temperatures. I never tried it.

 

[Drail]

Given a choice of running my gun dry for a short time or having it smell like a fish I think I'll run it dry.

 

[JB75]

I like loctite c5-a copper based lube.

 

[U.S. Patriot]

I use rem-oil on my handguns, do the the low oder as I clean them inside. I make sure they are "lightly" lubed, and I use weapon shield on the rails. My AR gets weapon shield on the bolt and carrier. It's all I use anymore. My AR runs better dry, a wet AR is nothing but a carbon magnet.

 

[shavedforbattle]

Less is more, regardless of your choice of lube.

 

[chizzle]

A lot of good advice here. Methods and lubes I haven't tried, that is what I was hoping for that I have not tried



Funny you should say that, I was thinking of a synthetic transmission fluid

AllenM,
I typically run lightweight synthetic oil during the Summer (i.e 5-30) and something with lighter viscosity in the winter (Benelli oil, 0 weight oil, etc.). The biggest mistake I see is people adding too much to the wrong parts on their 1911 / 2011. I'd recommend a bottle like this:

NEEDLE OILER BOTTLES - Brownells

With the slide off, I add a drop to each rail, a drop to my guide rod, and a drop to the disconnector. With the slide back on, I add a drop to the area of the barrel where the bushing contacts, and a drop to the barrel hood as close as I can get to the lugs. That's it. With these needle oiler bottles you can get a lot smaller drops too, so you're using the absolute minimum. Using too much (especially in conjunction with powder that doesn't get burned all the way / leaves residue) can result in black goo everywhere. When adding oil properly and shooting a clean burning load, I can get several thousand rounds through my gun without having to even take the slide off the frame.

If you'd like to see what I'm talking about in person, catch me at the next FNS and I'd be happy to show you how I do it.
Sincerely,
Chuck