Hey team.
I just thought that since I’m doing tons of metal polishing now, (alum, brass, stainless, steel, etc), I would throw this down thread just incase anyone was curious on how polish up old oxidized, rusted metal’s to (near new).
First let cover some of the basic myths associated with polishing. Look at this as a (foundation) for you to build your knowledge of all things metal. Hahaaa.
1. All Metal polishes are the same
Wrong.
There are Anti-oxidants, enhancers, grime removers, inhibitors, slip agents, etc., they all vary, sometimes enormously, from brand to brand
2. All general purpose metal polishes are good on any surface
Again this understanding is wrong!
A polish that is good on stainless steel or chromium should be kept away from most soft metals especially gold, silver, platinum, pewter, copper and precious pieces.
If it is hard enough to cut stainless it will gouge soft metals easily and remove unnecessary material. If it is good for finishing aluminum it probably won't touch chromium, bronze or stainless steel.
That is not to say that a polish for fine or precious metals won't work on harder metals. It will cut slower. But a polish suitable for cutting hard metals from rough finishes will tear gold and silver apart.
3. All polished finishes have the same endurance
Unfortunately not, some fade quickly, in particular the metal polishes that contain “ammoniates, or anhydrous”.
The ones that use acids are not generally far behind them. But also there are many others too. This can be caused by all manner of reasons. Lack of inhibitors, lack of protective waxes, or even the wrong waxes for the environment the finish has to endure. A bad ph. balance caused by the use of acids or alkali or even the protective wax, which is normally acidic, is another reason metal polish will fade.
4. All polished surfaces should be waxed or lacquered if you want it to really last
This depends on environment.
Pieces subjected to ocean environments need protection with lacquers or clear coats.
Show vehicles want their brightwork to be waxed where it counts, aluminum is normally wxaed to imptove the lustre. With stainless it depends on the quality of finish. Show chrome should never really need more than an ultrafine wax free maintenance polishing. Areas subject to heat should be wax and lacquer free.
5. A polish that is good on chrome will be good on stainless, or vice versa
Depends again on what is in the polish.
There are ways of highlighting the components of a metal, and chromium is an ingredient of stainless. It's what makes it shine. There are polishes that are great on both. Many only excel on one or the other.
6. All buffing wheels are the same
Wrong!.
There (2) different types of wheels, a cleaning wheel and a polishing wheel
Lets talk materials.
Cleaning disks:
I use 1 for the buffer and one for the drill
Polishing disk:
I only use this on the buffer
Compounds:
Cleaning
Initial buffing phase
When you think your done and your ready for the final polish (think again!)
This stuff is “hands down” the best cleaner around too, but it too expensive to use for that purpose.. it for when you think you done, it will humble you.. lol…
Then once you pass the MAAS test, then you finish it off with mother “billet” polish for a ultra deep high gloss shine.
I just thought that since I’m doing tons of metal polishing now, (alum, brass, stainless, steel, etc), I would throw this down thread just incase anyone was curious on how polish up old oxidized, rusted metal’s to (near new).
First let cover some of the basic myths associated with polishing. Look at this as a (foundation) for you to build your knowledge of all things metal. Hahaaa.
1. All Metal polishes are the same
Wrong.
There are Anti-oxidants, enhancers, grime removers, inhibitors, slip agents, etc., they all vary, sometimes enormously, from brand to brand
2. All general purpose metal polishes are good on any surface
Again this understanding is wrong!
A polish that is good on stainless steel or chromium should be kept away from most soft metals especially gold, silver, platinum, pewter, copper and precious pieces.
If it is hard enough to cut stainless it will gouge soft metals easily and remove unnecessary material. If it is good for finishing aluminum it probably won't touch chromium, bronze or stainless steel.
That is not to say that a polish for fine or precious metals won't work on harder metals. It will cut slower. But a polish suitable for cutting hard metals from rough finishes will tear gold and silver apart.
3. All polished finishes have the same endurance
Unfortunately not, some fade quickly, in particular the metal polishes that contain “ammoniates, or anhydrous”.
The ones that use acids are not generally far behind them. But also there are many others too. This can be caused by all manner of reasons. Lack of inhibitors, lack of protective waxes, or even the wrong waxes for the environment the finish has to endure. A bad ph. balance caused by the use of acids or alkali or even the protective wax, which is normally acidic, is another reason metal polish will fade.
4. All polished surfaces should be waxed or lacquered if you want it to really last
This depends on environment.
Pieces subjected to ocean environments need protection with lacquers or clear coats.
Show vehicles want their brightwork to be waxed where it counts, aluminum is normally wxaed to imptove the lustre. With stainless it depends on the quality of finish. Show chrome should never really need more than an ultrafine wax free maintenance polishing. Areas subject to heat should be wax and lacquer free.
5. A polish that is good on chrome will be good on stainless, or vice versa
Depends again on what is in the polish.
There are ways of highlighting the components of a metal, and chromium is an ingredient of stainless. It's what makes it shine. There are polishes that are great on both. Many only excel on one or the other.
6. All buffing wheels are the same
Wrong!.
There (2) different types of wheels, a cleaning wheel and a polishing wheel
Lets talk materials.
Cleaning disks:
I use 1 for the buffer and one for the drill
Polishing disk:
I only use this on the buffer
Compounds:
Cleaning
Initial buffing phase
When you think your done and your ready for the final polish (think again!)
This stuff is “hands down” the best cleaner around too, but it too expensive to use for that purpose.. it for when you think you done, it will humble you.. lol…
Then once you pass the MAAS test, then you finish it off with mother “billet” polish for a ultra deep high gloss shine.
