how would you level equipment on a sloping ?

[shawnba67]

I jumped the gate and bought a lathe but my garage is asphalt floored and it has a bit of slope to it ideas on what i can do get this monster up and going its 5ft long and 1000lbs if its an ounce any help ia apreciated

 

[IndyGunworks]

Hockey pucks on the floor, and there should be places on the base of the lathe for levelers.... If not a hole, threaded rod, washers, and nuts will work.

I used allthread into drilled and tapped holes in my mill when I had it, and the south bend lathe I had the EXACT same issue as you, but there were already holes in the cast iron base so I ran a tap through them, rounded off an end of allthread, welded a nut on top, and milled a matching hole in the hockey pucks about 3/4 of an inch deep.

 

[shawnba67]

so that seems easy enough hockey pucks! now are my concerns of flexing the pedastal base if its elevated on 3 of the four sides with little puck pedastals or will being level by any means be just fine this lathe has a square pad base in the back end and two front legs

 

[IndyGunworks]

why only use three hockey pucks? What make model of lathe do you have?

 

[IndyGunworks]

Ideally you want all four corners to have adustments..... while you CAN level the machine with only three legs adjustable, doing so while keeping the fourth leg firmly on the ground is a VERY VERY frustrating endeavor

 

[shawnba67]

Ok i went out and looked harder and perfectly camoflauged by the years of neglect that made rhis lathe affordable were 6 1/2'' holes for leveling feet they arent tapped but that seems like a small matter so tommorow im off to dunhams for pucks thanks much Indy gun works youve at least got me tracking a good trail

 

[17 squirrel]

The holes don't need to be tapped, you use fine thread bolts with the bolt head on the floor sitting on a Steel Bearing Plate or plates, and a flat washer and nut on both sides and lock washers on the top also of the drilled hole.
You adjust and level the lathe with the bottom nut and when the lathe is plumb and level you lock down the top nuts to secure your adjustments. And this is a minimum, you should set the machine on steel plates and shims so it solid. Sitting on asphalt you might have a problem keeping your lathe level.
It really should be secured to the shop floor with anchors.
If its not secured to the shop floor and the lathe is sitting on a slope how are you going to keep it from sliding down the grade ?
Even more so if its sitting on plastic sliders ?

Oh, and use all six holes to level your lathe.. They are there for a reason.

Here's a PDF from South bend on installation of there lathes.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggoMAQ&usg=AFQjCNHcQa4zXp-YrX_XWF4Dorxi4dF39A

 

[Robert Richardson]

Make sure you use a "machine Level " not a cheap carpentry level.

 

[6mm Shoot]

Pour a 6" pad 1' bigger than the machine then work from there.

 

[Harleyrider_50]

Make sure you use a "machine Level " not a cheap carpentry level.

........
be hard-press'd ta find better......

acc'rate ta within .0026......

 

[churchmouse]

........
be hard-press'd ta find better......

acc'rate ta within .0026......

I have both a machine level and a carpentry (several) level and there is little comparison.
The one in your pic looks pretty spot on.

 

[Harleyrider_50]

I have both a machine level and a carpentry (several) level and there is little comparison.
The one in your pic looks pretty spot on.

They is.......ACCurate......most accurate I ever run 'cross, not.....cheap, by no means.....got whole set from 78" all'a way down ta that lil' torpedo....

Stabila - Category

 

[churchmouse]

They is.......ACCurate......most accurate I ever run 'cross, not.....cheap, by no means.....got whole set from 78" all'a way down ta that lil' torpedo....

Stabila - Category

When I moved my lathe and mill out of my shop into my partners dads shop it was a nightmare. I had forgotten what a chore it was to move and level equipment.
I used steel pump shims.

 

[Harleyrider_50]

When I moved my lathe and mill out of my shop into my partners dads shop it was a nightmare. I had forgotten what a chore it was to move and level equipment.
I used steel pump shims.

No doubt'n my mind, it was.....

 

[bulletsmith]

Pour a 6" pad 1' bigger than the machine then work from there.

I agree with this. If you are trying to level a 1000 lb machine, asphalt is not your friend. Asphalt is not a solid, it remains plastic at nearly all temperatures we experience. Your "feet" on this 1000lb load will likely begin to sink into the floor over time.

 

[shawnba67]

I know it's gonna sink but I've got little real option at the moment. I have access to a bunch of those jeep trailer hitches they take off for the recall. Some of those side plates are 8" across plan to cut them off for foot plates. Hope they slow down the sinking lol

 

[Fullmag]

Re-read above posts. Vibration from operation is going speed up settling process, fast. Might be ok for temporary fix. The problem is that the floor will not settle evenly.

 

[IndyDave1776]

I agree with this. If you are trying to level a 1000 lb machine, asphalt is not your friend. Asphalt is not a solid, it remains plastic at nearly all temperatures we experience. Your "feet" on this 1000lb load will likely begin to sink into the floor over time.

Exactly. Asphalt and concrete work on exactly opposite principles. Concrete derives its strength from hardness, the harder the better. Asphalt derives its strength from elasticity, which is why it is vulnerable to cold weather more so than concrete--it ceases to be elastic, becomes brittle, and breaks. Needless to say, elasticity and rigid placement of machinery do not work well together.

 

[1911ly]

........
be hard-press'd ta find better......

acc'rate ta within .0026......

Not to be to fussy but that is not nearly accurate enough for a metal lathe. A true machinist level is accurate down to .0005 over 1 ft. And that makes a big difference on a lathe if you hope to machine anything to within a thousands of an inch accurate.

If the machine is not level at base you will damage the lathe. It's important that the lathe bed not be twisted. Plates under the leveling adjusters will help a lot with settling. But you will have to level the lathe several times a week until it settles.

If it hasn't been sitting flat you might not be able to adjust it square or it will take many weeks to months to level it. Once level check it a few times a week then every month. Check the level on the ways at 1 foot spacing left and right, front to back. If your level won't span the ways then you can use a machinist granite flat plate. This is the only way to really truly level a lathe or a mill. Don't just think it's close enough. Know it!!

Yeah, the thing is a big hunk of metal, but trust me it will (be) twist if not mounted level.

SHARS 8" Master Precision Level for Machinist Tool New 0005 New | eBay

SHARS 12 x 18" Granite Grade B Surface Plate No Ledge 0002" New | eBay

Once you have it level you haven't even started on checking the squareness of the head and tail stock... the fun begins. But it is all worth it. And just part of owning a nice peace of machinery.

 

[BigBoxaJunk]

The holes don't need to be tapped, you use fine thread bolts with the bolt head on the floor sitting on a Steel Bearing Plate or plates, and a flat washer and nut on both sides and lock washers on the top also of the drilled hole.
You adjust and level the lathe with the bottom nut and when the lathe is plumb and level you lock down the top nuts to secure your adjustments. And this is a minimum, you should set the machine on steel plates and shims so it solid. Sitting on asphalt you might have a problem keeping your lathe level.
It really should be secured to the shop floor with anchors.
If its not secured to the shop floor and the lathe is sitting on a slope how are you going to keep it from sliding down the grade ?
Even more so if its sitting on plastic sliders ?

Oh, and use all six holes to level your lathe.. They are there for a reason.

Here's a PDF from South bend on installation of there lathes.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggoMAQ&usg=AFQjCNHcQa4zXp-YrX_XWF4Dorxi4dF39A

That manual was interesting. Funny how many of the machine operators in the pictures are not wearing safety glasses. Times change.