I got M1 Garand project

[Tula47]

I'll post a parts number list tomorrow once everything is clean

 

[Bigtanker]

Tagged for the history lesson.

 

[Bapak2ja]

 

[jblomenberg16]

I wouldn't think so.

Correct. 175 degF won't hurt the metal. It would have to get much much much hotter to have any effect. To change the microstructure of steel you have to get up to the eutectic temperature, which depending on the alloy is going to be in the 700deg C range...so you are good to go.


Like others have said, you might have a very early M1 with some very collectable and valuable parts (lock bar sights, un-cut op-rod, etc.). We have several M1 Garand experts on the forum that could help you decide how to best salvage the rifle, or if you decided to part ways with the parts, could give you fair valuations of its worth.


For all the engineers in the room, or those curious about Eutectic and how it affects the microstructure of steel can read more here:

http://web.utk.edu/~prack/MSE 300/FeC.pdf

 

[Orlando8]

You said gas cylinder is stuck?? Did you remove thegas screw and gas lock first? If so then tap the cylinder with a hammer and wood block. It is not worth buying all thetools for a simple barrel change. You will spend more in tools than what a barrel and installation would cost
Again depending on what you have it may be worth more as is than if you rebarrel. If its in the 1942 range I would be interestd in it

 

[Tula47]

You said gas cylinder is stuck?? Did you remove thegas screw and gas lock first? If so then tap the cylinder with a hammer and wood block. It is not worth buying all thetools for a simple barrel change. You will spend more in tools than what a barrel and installation would cost
Again depending on what you have it may be worth more as is than if you rebarrel. If its in the 1942 range I would be interestd in it

Yes I removed the gas screw and the lock wasn't on the rifle, it was the only part that was missing. I have tried tapping it with a rubber hammer and it hasn't moved

 

[jinks]

Yes I removed the gas screw and the lock wasn't on the rifle, it was the only part that was missing. I have tried tapping it with a rubber hammer and it hasn't moved

Let the gas cylinder soak in penetrating oil for a few days and try the hammer and wood block again.

 

[Orlando8]

Probably had alot of corrosive ammo fired through it and never had gas cylinder removed. Try soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil. Rubber hammer isnt thebest methoad. Use a block of wood and a steel hammer and pound on the bayo lug

 

[Colt556]

I never find neat stuff...... Be very careful on what you do to this as mentioned above it could be worth a fair amount of money if salvageable.

 

[halfmileharry]

Probably had alot of corrosive ammo fired through it and never had gas cylinder removed. Try soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil. Rubber hammer isnt thebest methoad. Use a block of wood and a steel hammer and pound on the bayo lug

I'd opt for the Kroil on this one. I like PB Blaster but I've had WAY better luck on the old guns with stuck/rusty parts.

 

[SSE]

One other thing to consider, if you get it all put back together try shooting it if the bore is not totally messed up. Sometimes they will still shoot really good with a bore that looks like crud.

 

[Tula47]

Probably had alot of corrosive ammo fired through it and never had gas cylinder removed. Try soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil. Rubber hammer isnt thebest methoad. Use a block of wood and a steel hammer and pound on the bayo lug

I just now got the parts washer empty so It'll soak over night and ill see what happens.

 

[Tula47]

Here are the numbers that I got off everything:

Barrel - D35448-28-Y-55-D? The last letter is hard to make out because it has a proof mark right on top of it. There was also 2-S-A-2 448 stamped on the barrel as well.

Oprod - D35382 9 SA

Trigger Housing - D28290-12-SA

Bolt - D28287-12-SA

Receiver - R 44 A D 28291 17



Do any of these numbers mean anything to anyone?

 

[Dog1]

Here are the numbers that I got off everything:

Barrel - D35448-28-Y-55-D? The last letter is hard to make out because it has a proof mark right on top of it. There was also 2-S-A-2 448 stamped on the barrel as well.

Oprod - D35382 9 SA

Trigger Housing - D28290-12-SA

Bolt - D28287-12-SA

Receiver - R 44 A D 28291 17



Do any of these numbers mean anything to anyone?

The "D"s are drawing numbers in reference to the blueprints. So...DXXXXX is the drawing number the dash and a number is the revision and the SA is, of course, Springfield Armory.

 

[Denny347]

1944 receiver and a 55 barrel I believe. Restock it, get to working order, then shoot it before you decided to re barrel it.

 

[Dog1]

This is an awesome book on serial numbers and data sheets

http://smile.amazon.com/M1-Garand-S...TF8&qid=1459809968&sr=8-3&keywords=Scott+Duff

 

[citizenkane]

I think the barrel date is going to be 2-44. I'm guessing that's marked on the op rod side of the barrel?

 

[Tula47]

I think the barrel date is going to be 2-44. I'm guessing that's marked on the op rod side of the barrel?

Yep its on the side there

 

[Orlando8]

The parts you have listed so far are correct

 

[Winamac]

Here are the numbers that I got off everything:

Barrel - D35448-28-Y-55-D? The last letter is hard to make out because it has a proof mark right on top of it. There was also 2-S-A-2 448 stamped on the barrel as well.

Oprod - D35382 9 SA



Trigger Housing - D28290-12-SA

Bolt - D28287-12-SA

Receiver - R 44 A D 28291 17



Do any of these numbers mean anything to anyone?

If I remember correctly from my Garand collecting days and anyone please correct me if I am in error, but the 12-SA after the trigger housing and bolt indicate the 12th revision of this particular piece as it pertains to the Garand rifle since its inception. The 9 SA the same as the 12 except it would be the 9th revision of the op-rod as it pertains to the Garand since its inception. As mentioned on here earlier the number as a whole is the drawing number. Please keep us posted this find is so awesome!

One more thing to add. If and when you get this beauty up and running. Might I suggest that you not shoot it with the un-cut op-rod currently with the rifle. The reason is because the uncut rods(like yours) can crack and they are highly collectible therefore a cracked one would be bad and dangerous.Might I suggest that you buy a surplus relief cut op-rod and shoot using it. Just my 2 cents.