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I would like to start reloading 30.06 for my Garand. Where do I start?
- Thread starter mxxkffg
- Start date
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You are in a great area to get started in the right direction. Stop by Profire and see Andrew, he will get you set up and started in the right direction.
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/profire_arms_and_supply_inc/
https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/profire_arms_and_supply_inc/
Most of the information you need to reload is pretty much universal. Case prep, sizing, priming charging, etc is all the same.
Tuning the load can be firearm specific.
The M1 has a gas system that is unforgiving if the powder burn rate or pressure curves are outside of specification. More than one op rod has been bent with 30-06 ammo that was good ammo for another rifle. This link will get you dependable load data for the M1.
M1 load data (courtesy of NRA)
4895 and 4064 powder has always been a favorite for the M1.
I have an old booklet about the M1 that was published by the NRA probably 40 years ago. I don't know if it is still in print. The info on the website is from that booklet.
Pay careful attention to the warning about true military brass. In that era, US military brass really was thicker than commercial. Foreign brass is a crap shoot. If in doubt, size and trim the unknown brass. Weigh it and compare that weight to a sized a trimmed piece of commercial (REM, WIN, FED) brass and also to a piece if known US Military (LC, WCC, TW, FC) you will easily see which brass weight your unknown brass matches. Good Luck and have fun.
Tuning the load can be firearm specific.
The M1 has a gas system that is unforgiving if the powder burn rate or pressure curves are outside of specification. More than one op rod has been bent with 30-06 ammo that was good ammo for another rifle. This link will get you dependable load data for the M1.
M1 load data (courtesy of NRA)
4895 and 4064 powder has always been a favorite for the M1.
I have an old booklet about the M1 that was published by the NRA probably 40 years ago. I don't know if it is still in print. The info on the website is from that booklet.
Pay careful attention to the warning about true military brass. In that era, US military brass really was thicker than commercial. Foreign brass is a crap shoot. If in doubt, size and trim the unknown brass. Weigh it and compare that weight to a sized a trimmed piece of commercial (REM, WIN, FED) brass and also to a piece if known US Military (LC, WCC, TW, FC) you will easily see which brass weight your unknown brass matches. Good Luck and have fun.
Good info there from Leo, as usual.
The link that Leo posted covers a lot of ground.
The Hornady manual has service rifle specific load data. I recommend getting that manual, the Lyman No. 49th Edition, and maybe some reloading manuals from a few other manufacturers. The ABC's of reloading is a good one too. Reloading manuals all have many pages that explain the reloading process in detail. Of course you don't have to run out and buy all of these manuals at once.
Having good info, taking the time to go thru it (numerous times), and paying attention to what you are doing (observation) are key.
Basically learn as much as you can before you ever resize the first case.
Start out working slow, thinking thru the steps.
A basic kit will get you going. Resize a few reasonably clean cases, check them for proper length, then trim & chamfer/deburr as/if needed.
Check the cases in the gun to see that they chamber properly.
Set up your seating die and make up just a few dummy rounds to hand cycle the gun for a function test.
With the correct components and powder charge in properly prepped cases and the correct overall length you are on your way.
You don't have to immediately start cranking out piles of ammo like you are a Dillon 1050. In fact you need to do just the opposite. Work into it gradually and pay attention to everything all of the time.
Getting in a hurry is high on the list of ways to make a mistake, or a batch of several hundred++ mistakes.
netsecurity
Shooter
No expert, but i started with a $20 lee classic hand loader and it works great because the volume of 30-06 isn't super high. Now I have a press, but I see no reason to switch over for my 30-06.
You will enjoy shooting your M1 Garand with your reloads. As noted in the other posts, the Garand uses a range of powder that will not damage the operating rod, some of the most popular are: IMR 4895, H4895, IMR 4064, or Varget. I suggest that you go the the CMP Forum, in the section "Ask Each Other" there is a sub section "Reloading" and do a search. You will find a wealth of information about reloading the M1 Garand. Also keep in mind that if you are not going to be shooting farther than 200 yards, you can look at reloads using a lighter bullet and still use the traditional M1 powders and reduce your recoil and still have an accurate load.
A lot of shooters buy HXP 30.06 ammo from the CMP, shoot it, and then reload using the brass.
Just some ideas on my part. Buena suerte.
A lot of shooters buy HXP 30.06 ammo from the CMP, shoot it, and then reload using the brass.
Just some ideas on my part. Buena suerte.
rimfire_crazed
Master
Do what Leo suggests. The NRA load data is golden.
rimfire_crazed
Master
A Lee Loader isn't going to FL resize like the OP needs in order to shoot safely in his Garand.
Not knowing how old a Lee the poster has, but some of the real old Lee Loaders did in fact full length resize. I have a Lee Loader in .32 Winchester Special that sizes full length. I bought it back in the 50 or 60's.
Current models in bottle neck cases do not full length size tho.
If you're planning to reload brass from military surplus M2 ball, don't forget to get a primer pocket reamer to get rid of the crimp.
I just loaded about 100 rds for my son's M1 earlier this evening. 45 grains of IMR4895, 165 gr Hornady SST bullets. 2.693 OAL to the ogive with a comparator, which is about 3.3 COAL. They group a little better with 46 grains, but we're just plinking at 100 yards so I loaded them light.
If you follow reasonable loading guidelines for an M1 you don't need an adjustable gas plug but I installed one because it gives me better control of how the brass gets ejected so I don't have to search so hard to retrieve them.
I just loaded about 100 rds for my son's M1 earlier this evening. 45 grains of IMR4895, 165 gr Hornady SST bullets. 2.693 OAL to the ogive with a comparator, which is about 3.3 COAL. They group a little better with 46 grains, but we're just plinking at 100 yards so I loaded them light.
If you follow reasonable loading guidelines for an M1 you don't need an adjustable gas plug but I installed one because it gives me better control of how the brass gets ejected so I don't have to search so hard to retrieve them.
