If you were building an AR...

[lovemachine]

I have been saving up cash for awhile to buy an Aimpoint for my one and only AR15. But, after thinking about it, I think I'm going to build another one instead. I have already bought a stripped Spikes Tactical lower. My plan is to buy a BCM upper, while getting a free BCM BCG. I may have to get a KMR as well.

 

[gunworks321]

My sixth and final build will be a 7.62x39 AR. Not going to rush in as the upper with BCG and charging handle and completed lower are already in place. So a barrel with block and tube, free float handguard, flash hider and mags are on the Christmas list. Should be fun once completed.

 

[Mike Grasso]

Well, I guess all the guns we have built/repaired/modified were just flukes........

Could be, I'm sure every Military Unit and LE Department allow individuals to build and then utilize their own weapons. They surely don't use dedicated Armorers, do they?
But don't get all butt hurt over it, it's the internet.
Moving on to allow posts back on track.

 

[1911ly]

Could be, I'm sure every Military Unit and LE Department allow individuals to build and then utilize their own weapons. They surely don't use dedicated Armorers, do they?
But don't get all butt hurt over it, it's the internet.
Moving on to allow posts back on track.

I didn't sense any butt hurt??

 

[Trigger Time]

Could be, I'm sure every Military Unit and LE Department allow individuals to build and then utilize their own weapons. They surely don't use dedicated Armorers, do they?
But don't get all butt hurt over it, it's the internet.
Moving on to allow posts back on track.

I had a police "top armorer" work on a couple AR's for me and he didn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. I'll never let anyone else touch my guns again. A title and some certificates don't mean **** to me.

 

[Que]

I may start with a stripped lower since I'll be in a gun show. Any particular brand to avoid or even consider above others? I know that I'm not touching the polymer stuff!

Someone mentioned items that are more difficult to find; what would some of those be?

 

[RobbyMaQ]

WHen I did mine, everything was difficult to find lol. Took me like 4 months to find a BCG at a fair price. I doubt that is the case now.

fwiw I just saw free shipping at PSA this weekend;
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...3348-palmetto-state-armory-free-shipping.html

 

[M67]

I may start with a stripped lower since I'll be in a gun show. Any particular brand to avoid or even consider above others? I know that I'm not touching the polymer stuff!

I personally like billet receivers, adds character to a rifle and they're great if you appreciate good machine work. Cost more, but the attention to detail is worth it to me.

Mega, Seekins, POF, and Noveske offer some nice forged lowers though. Good attention to detail, smooth transitions, and nice little extra features

 

[seedubs1]

I just picked up 5 aero precision lowers online for $56 each after shipping and transfer fees. Pretty dang cheap, but not quite as cheap as the Anderson lowers, but I can't stand that stupid horse on fire stamp. Same with zombie stamps. But that's just me being a dumb ass.

Most lowers from decent manufacturers are GTG. Almost all 7075 t6 forged lowers are essentially the same minus the stamping on the side. Get what's cheapest.

Uppers are almost all the same. But some will have a bit better fit between the barrel/receiver. I've found Aero uppers to have a nice tight fit between the upper/barrel, and I've heard the same about BCM uppers.

I may start with a stripped lower since I'll be in a gun show. Any particular brand to avoid or even consider above others? I know that I'm not touching the polymer stuff!

Someone mentioned items that are more difficult to find; what would some of those be?

 

[gregkl]

I may start with a stripped lower since I'll be in a gun show. Any particular brand to avoid or even consider above others? I know that I'm not touching the polymer stuff!

Someone mentioned items that are more difficult to find; what would some of those be?

I read and hear a lot about the quality differences between lowers. Supposedly I am gambling on my recent purchase which is an Anderson lower. Of all the lowers I have looked at and used, I really don't see any functional difference between them. And most I don't see any visual difference except maybe for the amount of sheen on the hardcoat.

Now Seekins and some others have some "fancy" metalwork done, but I prefer the "stock" look personally.

I passed on some DTI's because I didn't like the roll mark. I do take some key measurements when I get my stripped lower prior to building it up just to see how close to nominal they are. So far, they are usually right at nominal of close enough that I attribute it to measurement error by me.

If I check the Anderson's and they are out, I'll return them. Widener's is reputable. They will stand behind their sales.

 

[1775usmarine]

I was able to find what I was looking for with good deals in less than a month an a half. Of course I was laid up from work so I had all day to look online. My first build and I was pleased with the results at 100. Have some fine tuning with the scope, but it runs flawless so far with 100 rds. Though I did take a chance on an Integrity Arms S/S 18in barrel, but have a spikes upper and lower, rock river LPK, Yankee Hill free float, clamp on front sight, birdcage flash hider, PSA mil butt stock and buffer, and Bushnell Legend scope.

 

[jagee]

This would not be for precision shooting. Just for plinking; some run-n-gun fun; and the experience of building an AR, what would be the FIRST piece of the project you would purchase and why?

The FIRST thing I would buy is a case of Bud Light bottles and an INGO phone book to get cm's number!

 

[j706]

I must be weird because my first component is the barrel. My main interest is precision and a top notch barrel will most always be the most expensive part. My favorite AR has a Douglass SPR barrel that cost me $450.00, almost what everything else cost. Minus the optics the barrel has always been the hardest to find for me and or the longest wait. IMO the barrel is what makes the gun on an AR. I have never seen one that will shoot well with a junky no name eBay barrel even with a high dollar upper lower combo,a FF rail and even a good trigger. Take a good barrel and put it on the cheapest goofy looking receiver that is in spec and it will most likely shoot great.

*** Guess I need to read better, I missed the "not" in precision AR!

 

[churchmouse]

I must be weird because my first component is the barrel. My main interest is precision and a top notch barrel will most always be the most expensive part. My favorite AR has a Douglass SPR barrel that cost me $450.00, almost what everything else cost. Minus the optics the barrel has always been the hardest to find for me and or the longest wait. IMO the barrel is what makes the gun on an AR. I have never seen one that will shoot well with a junky no name eBay barrel even with a high dollar upper lower combo,a FF rail and even a good trigger. Take a good barrel and put it on the cheapest goofy looking receiver that is in spec and it will most likely shoot great.

Good point but the OP stated it is to be an ammo hose. Battle accurate in his interests. Standard non-chrome 1/7 PSA barrel ills this very well.

 

[churchmouse]

The FIRST thing I would buy is a case of Bud Light bottles and an INGO phone book to get cm's number!

It was stated up thread that we do not know what we are doing as we have had no formal training...........

 

[jagee]

It was stated up thread that we do not know what we are doing as we have had no formal training...........

Formal training is for suckers! Just buy some beer (BL BOTTLES!) and watch CM perform his magic!

 

[seedubs1]

If Wideners doesn't, Anderson will. You should be fine building with one of those.

I read and hear a lot about the quality differences between lowers. Supposedly I am gambling on my recent purchase which is an Anderson lower. Of all the lowers I have looked at and used, I really don't see any functional difference between them. And most I don't see any visual difference except maybe for the amount of sheen on the hardcoat.

Now Seekins and some others have some "fancy" metalwork done, but I prefer the "stock" look personally.

I passed on some DTI's because I didn't like the roll mark. I do take some key measurements when I get my stripped lower prior to building it up just to see how close to nominal they are. So far, they are usually right at nominal of close enough that I attribute it to measurement error by me.

If I check the Anderson's and they are out, I'll return them. Widener's is reputable. They will stand behind their sales.

 

[bigcraig]

Que, I suggest you purchase the lower first. There are a lot of low cost lowers on the market that will serve you well, but if you plan on keeping this build forever and want some of the added features that a boutique billet lower can give, shop around and be prepared to spend some money.

As far as uppers are concerned, unless you just want the experience to build from scratch, there is no reason to over think this. Just pick a quality upper from BCM, DD, Ranier or Noveske that has the configuration you like and just save your pennies and buy it.

 

[Mr Evilwrench]

Hmm the last 4 posts...

Remind me not to have any of you build me something.

There is way more to it than a lego build.

The Internet is not your friend when it comes to gunsmithing.

And lastly, without proper instruction you wouldn't have the slightest idea how to deal with a malfunction due to a smithing error.

But go ahead, hope that everything is in spec and put it together, but it's not a good idea to make sure your head is real close when you pull the trigger the first time.

I'm sure you're a nice guy and all, and have our best interests in mind, but this just rubs my fur the wrong way.

That all may apply to Cletus in the trailer park, but as an engineer, I'm quite capable of understanding what I'm watching. I can get a couple of levels deeper than just which spring goes where, but I do kinda need to know which hole each of the springs goes in. The internet has been my friend, not just with the ARs but with an M1A and a couple of other things.

I do have a lathe and mill, and experience working with both. I have all the special tools, but I could build an AR with duct tape, WD-40 and a spork, and I'd be confident in it because I probably know almost as much about the thing as Eugene Stoner did. I built one for my son already, and I'm kinda protective there. We're working on a 6.5 Grendel for him, as well. I rednecked a 300BLK upper together out of a barrel and spare parts. I don't mean to come across as bragging or something, but some of us do indeed have the chops, and to dismiss that because we don't have the wallpaper is just offensive.

Myself, I don't want a polymer lower. As long as it's aluminum, and the measurements are in spec, you won't really go wrong. Billet is great, and I've seen complaints about the cast ones, but I had an Olympic cast lower back in the 80s and either I didn't run enough thousands of rounds through it to break it, or they're just fine. Realize: the lower is actually a pretty low stress part, especially with a low recoil round like the 5.56x45.

Oh, and yes, get a 5.56 barrel or a .223 Wylde. Those are both rated to hold the pressure. 1:7 is good for your 77gr bullets, 1:9 or less should do for 55 or 62, just avoid those 60s 1:14s and 1:12s.

 

[Trigger Time]

I read and hear a lot about the quality differences between lowers. Supposedly I am gambling on my recent purchase which is an Anderson lower. Of all the lowers I have looked at and used, I really don't see any functional difference between them. And most I don't see any visual difference except maybe for the amount of sheen on the hardcoat.

Now Seekins and some others have some "fancy" metalwork done, but I prefer the "stock" look personally.

I passed on some DTI's because I didn't like the roll mark. I do take some key measurements when I get my stripped lower prior to building it up just to see how close to nominal they are. So far, they are usually right at nominal of close enough that I attribute it to measurement error by me.

If I check the Anderson's and they are out, I'll return them. Widener's is reputable. They will stand behind their sales.

Whoever is telling you your taking a risk with an Anderson lower is talking out their ass! Anderson made lowers and other things for military contractors and then decided to start getting into the game themselves. You won't have any problem out of anything Anderson!