Is it normal for cases to shave copper from bullets while seating?

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  • 243rem700

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    While reloading for my 243 I am seating my 90 grain SGKs with Lee dies. While seating my bullets I will get a small ring of copper that is shaved off of each bullet. Will this affect the pressure or accuracy of the loads and is this normal?
     

    rockhopper46038

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    I'm certainly not an expert, just started reloading myself recently, but that sounds like you aren't getting a good enough "bell" on the case.
     

    tenring

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    Belling the case mouth for a .243 is a new one on me. The case mouth after full length resizing, trimming to proper length, should be de-burred on the outside, and especially the "inside". Sounds like you have missed this step. Chamfering the inside removes any burrs that might still be there, and acts as a guide for the projectile you're trying to seat. Boat tail bullets take very little chamfering to guide the bullet in, but if yours is a flat base, a little more might be need to get the job done right. Some of the reloading manuals have very good instructions with pictures to help you along with this little bit of information. Also, are you using the correct configuration in your seating stem?
     
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    Yeah

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    Not unusual.

    Virgin brass and non-bushing sizing dies run a little more neck tension than necessary and you'll get some shaving once in a while. Especially if you don't VLD chamfer. You might find a BR guy somewhere with a setup that could wring out the difference in accuracy but most of mortals won't see it.

    What is more concerning, if the shaving keeps happening on subsequent loadings, is that it makes concentric seating more difficult and you'll see more runout. And runout is definitely bad.

    Here is a pulled 155 Scenar that had been in a virgin 300 WSM case. Not only was the moly knocked off, but you can see that there are a few spots where the case mouth dug into the jacket. After fireforming to the chamber this will be smoothed out a bit.

    IMG_7447.jpg
     
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    243rem700

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    Belling the case mouth for a .243 is a new one on me. The case mouth after full length resizing, trimming to proper length, should be de-burred on the outside, and especially the "inside". Sounds like you have missed this step. Chamfering the inside removes any burrs that might still be there, and acts as a guide for the projectile you're trying to seat. Boat tail bullets take very little chamfering to guide the bullet in, but if yours is a flat base, a little more might be need to get the job done right. Some of the reloading manuals have very good instructions with pictures to help you along with this little bit of information. Also, are you using the correct configuration in your seating stem?

    The 90 grain Game Kings are boat tails and the insides of the cases were all chamfered. I'm not exactly sure what the seating stem is, but I haven't adjusted or changed one from the original Lee settings and there is no mention of it in the instructions. This is what has me so confused.
     

    sloughfoot

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    Pistol cases get a belled neck. Bottleneck rifle cases like the 243 should not get a belled neck.

    I know you said you chamfered the necks. You just aren't chamferring enough if a ring of copper is being peeled off. Prove me right or wrong by taking one case and chamferring the neck until it is so sharp, it could be used as a leather punch. You can't overdue the chamfer, it just takes a lot of extra time to over-chamfer.

    To your question, no it won't effect pressure or accuracy in a run of the mill factory rifle used at normal hunting distances.

    I too, don't understand the comment about the configuration of the seating stem.

    You just need a couple more twists with the chamfer tool.
     

    243rem700

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    I know you said you chamfered the necks. You just aren't chamferring enough if a ring of copper is being peeled off. Prove me right or wrong by taking one case and chamferring the neck until it is so sharp, it could be used as a leather punch. You can't overdue the chamfer, it just takes a lot of extra time to over-chamfer.

    I will give this a try. I was worried about removing too much material from the neck. I will see if this helps. Thanks for the advice!
     

    Leo

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    Forster makes a chamfering reamer for VLD bullets that makes a longer angle than the normal 45 degree deburing tools. I think it does a good job. I think I got it at sinclair
     

    tenring

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    Pistol cases get a belled neck. Bottleneck rifle cases like the 243 should not get a belled neck.

    I know you said you chamfered the necks. You just aren't chamferring enough if a ring of copper is being peeled off. Prove me right or wrong by taking one case and chamferring the neck until it is so sharp, it could be used as a leather punch. You can't overdue the chamfer, it just takes a lot of extra time to over-chamfer.

    To your question, no it won't effect pressure or accuracy in a run of the mill factory rifle used at normal hunting distances.

    I too, don't understand the comment about the configuration of the seating stem.

    You just need a couple more twists with the chamfer tool.

    Maybe I'm too old school, but many moons ago, when you bought a set of reloading dies, the seating die might just come with a stem machined for round nose bullets, and another for spitzers. Couple of years ago, I had RCBS make up a stem for the Hornady 75gr. Amax, for a .223 I had built. Stem contacts on the ogive, and not the tip. Made a difference in my groups. Y MMV
     

    243rem700

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    I tried giving the cases more of a chamfer this weekend and it worked great. I guess I thought I was chamfering the case when I was really just knocking the burrs off of the case mostly with no real material removal.

    Thank you to everyone for the help!
     
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