Kimber Prob - question

[Gino66]

Working on a Kimber 1911 SS, in 9mm. the issue is it will not eject the spent case. Not every time, but way too frequently to be reliable, thats the problem. It's a Kimber, so def expecting more reliable than not! The extractor is engaged well, and seems to be fine. The ejector has me puzzled. It appears to be a "normal" sized one, and has plenty of (read that as too much?) clearance to the slide. It is chamfered on the inside, and to me, that is where it engages the case rim the most so it should have more metal, not less.
Has anyone else have this problem? I am thinking of recommending an extended or heavy duty ejector to fix. thoughts??

something like this http://www.midwayusa.com/product/49...ector-1911-9mm-luger-38-super-stainless-steel

 

[SERparacord]

BREAK-IN PERIOD
Before firing the pistol for the first time, Field Strip
and clean the firearm following proper procedures
(see DISASSEMBLY, CLEANING and
LUBRICATION and ASSEMBLY
Instructions in this
Manual). Kimbers firearms are quality custom
pieces. Our firearms are hand fitted to tight
27 tolerances. For proper Break-in of the firearm
shoot 400-500 rounds of Quality Factory Ball
(230g. FMJ). Ammunition, cleaning and lubricating
the gun every 100-150 rounds.


How many rounds have been through yours?

 

[Gino66]

I'm told 350 rnds of several flavors of ammo. I will be doing a detailed cleaning. Working on this for friend. Agreed, it is tight fitting. I installed slide (sans bbl, spring, guiderod, bushing) and placed a snapcap in extractor to observe operation. I looked from rear of slide forward thru gap between ejector and slide and there is very little engagement to the case rim. I plan to reassemble tomorrow and sharpie the snapcap and then cycle to see exactly how much engagement ejector has. The question remains, is this a common prob? The purpose for an extended or heavy duty ejector is said to stop "stovepiping" or ejection probs. Can't seem to find one SS tho.

 

[SERparacord]

I'm told 350 rnds of several flavors of ammo. I will be doing a detailed cleaning. Working on this for friend. Agreed, it is tight fitting. I installed slide (sans bbl, spring, guiderod, bushing) and placed a snapcap in extractor to observe operation. I looked from rear of slide forward thru gap between ejector and slide and there is very little engagement to the case rim. I plan to reassemble tomorrow and sharpie the snapcap and then cycle to see exactly how much engagement ejector has. The question remains, is this a common prob? The purpose for an extended or heavy duty ejector is said to stop "stovepiping" or ejection probs. Can't seem to find one SS tho.

I haven't heard of it being a common problem. But then 9mm Kimber are few. Wilson makes bullet proof 9mm parts.
Wilson Combat Bullet Proof Extractor 1911 9mm Luger 38 Super Series 70

 

[Gino66]

THANKS, appreciate the feedback. Yes, looking into Midway parts. My troubleshooting guide/shop manual on 1911 suggests first, check for spring or guiderod malfunction. Not in this case, its a full length guiderod, and perfect spring. Next, for loose Ejector, which is not a prob. When I manually cycle, I can see the ejector missing the rim of the case. I think the width of the ejector is at fault, and the chamfer on the inside edge is not helping. gonna explore that some more......it is roll pinned, so gonna remove it tomorrow when cleaning.

 

[Leo]

I would not be discouraged in your Kimber at this point. It may be other issues. Too light of loads will also do this. Anything short of a full stroke cycle will act up. Nato spec 124 grain ammo has a little more rear thrust that ensures a complete cycle. If that is not what you are using, give that a try. If you like light 115 gr ammo loads, a 2 lb lighter recoil spring may be in order. My bullseye gun wears a 12 lb spring where the normal for .45 is 16 lbs. That is part of the joy of the 1911, you can tune them for your exact use. Brownells has a complete selection of weights. I like to stone my frame mounted ejector to a sharp edge, with a 5 degree bevel, longest edge to the top and bore centerline.

 

[Gino66]

I would not be discouraged in your Kimber at this point. It may be other issues. Too light of loads will also do this. Anything short of a full stroke cycle will act up. Nato spec 124 grain ammo has a little more rear thrust that ensures a complete cycle. If that is not what you are using, give that a try. If you like light 115 gr ammo loads, a 2 lb lighter recoil spring may be in order. My bullseye gun wears a 12 lb spring where the normal for .45 is 16 lbs. That is part of the joy of the 1911, you can tune them for your exact use. Brownells has a complete selection of weights. I like to stone my frame mounted ejector to a sharp edge, with a 5 degree bevel, longest edge to the top and bore centerline.

Appreciate the input LEO! I am attempting to fix for a friend. I considered the spring (and have a lighter one to try), but the engagement of that ejector really concerns me the most. So if everything is measured from the centerline of the bore out, on a .45 the distance to engage the case is greater than a 9mm, by virture of the larger diameter brass. IF, because I don't know the spec differences, say they installed a .45 ejector on a 9mm gun, then it could miss the case and not eject. When I look from behind, there is a 2-3mm gap from the ejector inward to the slide. If that space was metal on the ejector, it would engage the case properly. So I may call Kimber to speak with a gunsmith there and break out the micrometer to see if this ejector is correct. I will try the spring also... like I needed another excuse to shoot this sweet 9.

 

[singlestacksig]

when it fails to eject, what happens? does case stay in chamber, stove pipe, or get crushed straight on?

 

[SmokinSigs357]

Pardon me for sounding stupid, but is this a new gun/warranty issue? Sounds like a phone call or trip to authorized gunsmith away to me.

 

[RangeJunkie]

BREAK-IN PERIOD
Before firing the pistol for the first time, Field Strip
and clean the firearm following proper procedures
(see DISASSEMBLY, CLEANING and
LUBRICATION and ASSEMBLY
Instructions in this
Manual). Kimbers firearms are quality custom
pieces. Our firearms are hand fitted to tight
27 tolerances. For proper Break-in of the firearm
shoot 400-500 rounds of Quality Factory Ball
(230g. FMJ). Ammunition, cleaning and lubricating
the gun every 100-150 rounds.


How many rounds have been through yours?

230gr is a big 9mm bullet.

 

[singlestacksig]

Pardon me for sounding stupid, but is this a new gun/warranty issue? Sounds like a phone call or trip to authorized gunsmith away to me.

it might cost more to ship the gun than to just put in a new spring & extractor ...

 

[SERparacord]

230gr is a big 9mm bullet.

LOL Actually that is Kimber advice for a .45 ACP. His owners manual should have the correct statement for a 9mm.

 

[Chance]

Extractor tension

If you have not changed this before, reminder that a replacement extractor must be tensioned correctly to be reliable in a 1911 style pistol.

 

[Gino66]

this was a factory gun. I am the 1st to work on it. It is as someone suggested, expensive to ship it back to Kimber.....like $90 insured. The extractor is a critical part, but seems to be working fine. When it fails, the ejector seems to be missed by the retreating brass edge which should be caught to flip it out, as its guided off by the extractor grip. The extractor is holding the brass firmly and it tries to cycle with the spent and new cartridge together. When manually cycling with snapcaps, it just misses....so I am still in the ejector is not wide enough department, and that 1-2mm will make the difference. Also, its still strikes me as odd that the inboard corner of the ejector is chamfered off at 45 deg. that is the MOST critical corner of the part, where case engagment is so vital

 

[singlestacksig]

It might just be broken & not chamfered off.. I had the extractor on a S&W auto break like that..
I also have a Kimber in 38 super that would not eject the brass, it would shove it back into chamber or smask it long ways.. it was to heavy of spring .. the case was not going back far enough to get kicked out.. I changed the spring & the extractor just to be sure.. gun runs flawless now..

 

[palerider0485]

really have to see a picture, sounds like half the ejector is missing, and it could be, ive never seen that happen in a gun that new though, if its broken you will be able to tell by looking at it, also if the ejector is broken it should repeat the malfuction every shot, extractors and ejectors do need to be tuned correctly,

 

[Hoosier45]

230gr is a big 9mm bullet.

I think that's the new -p round.

 

[Hoosier8]

A suggestion. If you have a removable sleeve for your recoil spring guide rod, turn it 180 to see if it makes a difference.

I turned mine 180 during disassemble and had binding because of it.

 

[Gino66]

Thanks all, for the input. Its a solid bar guiderod, with a nice straight spring over it. Considered the spring being too strong, but having manually cycled it, I am convinced of the ejector contributing to the prob, if not THE prob. This pistol is "smooth as butta" and not particularly hard to cycle. I might take a full 360 deg. coil off the spring as a last resort. I actually have pics to accomodate the story, but have not figured how to get them posted just yet. going to FAQ next.....try to get them posted today.

 

[Gino66]

http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o678/Ginoref/Kimber1_zpscaf52e9b.jpg

http://i1337.photobucket.com/albums/o678/Ginoref/Kinber2_zpse7a7cd29.jpg


OK, so I can set up the photobucket link.....suppose I need to read on to have the photo just insert to the thread.