Knife sharpening problem.

[Sirshredalot]

Hey INGO.

Im pretty much an amateur at sharpening...I can put a useable edge on an axe or hatchet...and can keep my knifes workable...at least I thought.

I got a new japanese water stone 1000/6000 combo for christmas and have been fooling around with a couple of my carry knives...and theyre duller than ever now. A leek and a Junkyard Dog..

I can get a decent feeling "bur?" on the 1000 side, but as soon as I hit the 6000 side they become butter knives with polished edges

Im afraid that I have screwed up the angles....how can I fix it?

How do the pros keep the angle right with such a small surface area to work with? Im laying the blade flat on the stone and rolling the spine up until the slurry pushes out in front of the blade.
I dont have a strop but I have plenty of scrap leather.

Please and thank you
God bless
-Shred

 

[Dean C.]

I use a wicked edge system for my sharpening it takes all the guess work out of sharpening and is almost idiot proof (I have seen some messed up knives that were sharpened on a wicked edge) Now when you say you can feel the bur on the edge at 1000 grit what other grits have you used before that? Because really the 1000 is just polishing and refining the edge not really removing metal like say a 100 grit stone would?

Basically what progression of stones are you using like just the 1000, 6000 or are there more steps involved? And can you feel a bur on the edged of the knives currently?

 

[Sirshredalot]

Ive got a Diamond 325/600 combo as well but i havent been using it much as it feels like Im dragging my knife across gravel.....?

Let me ask this question....what does a "bur" feel like?...maybe I am misunderstanding bur.

God bless
-Shred

 

[Dean C.]

Ive got a Diamond 325/600 combo as well but i havent been using it much as it feels like Im dragging my knife across gravel.....?

Let me ask this question....what does a "bur" feel like?...maybe I am misunderstanding bur.

God bless
-Shred

The 325/600 especially the 325 should feel a bit "gravely" that is the stone removing metal and re profiling the edge and from the way it sounds you may need to do that. When I sharpen a knife I start on one side only it does not matter what side. You use repeated strokes on the stone to what is called apexing the edge, once properly apexed on the opposite side you sharpen if you run your finger along the edge you will feel the bur you just created (it will feel like a very small ledge and be very obvious.

Once the first side of the knife has been apexed you repeat the process with the opposite side. This process ensures you are sharpening the entire secondary bevel out to the edge making sure you are actually honing and refining the cutting edge. Once both sides have been apexed you will use the traditional one stroke per side sharpening method progressing through your stones ending with the leather strops.

The tricky part of the entire endeavor is keeping the angles of your sharpening consistent because it doesn't matter if you apex the edge perfectly at the 325 grit only to mess up on the 600 and mess up the edge. Now when you finally get to stropping I would use an more acute angle because the leather will "mold" to the edge and I have seen people actually dull a very sharp just hones edge with a bad stop job.

Hopefully this made sense and did not terrify anyone looking to sharpen their own knives. Let me know if you have any more questions as usual.

 

[Bradsknives]

The 325/600 especially the 325 should feel a bit "gravely" that is the stone removing metal and re profiling the edge and from the way it sounds you may need to do that. When I sharpen a knife I start on one side only it does not matter what side. You use repeated strokes on the stone to what is called apexing the edge, once properly apexed on the opposite side you sharpen if you run your finger along the edge you will feel the bur you just created (it will feel like a very small ledge and be very obvious.

Once the first side of the knife has been apexed you repeat the process with the opposite side. This process ensures you are sharpening the entire secondary bevel out to the edge making sure you are actually honing and refining the cutting edge. Once both sides have been apexed you will use the traditional one stroke per side sharpening method progressing through your stones ending with the leather strops.

The tricky part of the entire endeavor is keeping the angles of your sharpening consistent because it doesn't matter if you apex the edge perfectly at the 325 grit only to mess up on the 600 and mess up the edge. Now when you finally get to stropping I would use an more acute angle because the leather will "mold" to the edge and I have seen people actually dull a very sharp just hones edge with a bad stop job.

Hopefully this made sense and did not terrify anyone looking to sharpen their own knives. Let me know if you have any more questions as usual.

@!#%^%$^&....Brain overload...and this why Dean sharpens all of my knives.

 

[SchwansManDan]

I dont have a strop but I have plenty of scrap leather.

I don't have a strop, but I DO have old leather belts that no longer reach all the way around my expanding waist. I normally hang the buckle of one on a hook attached to the wall, and use it as a strop.

 

[Nam1911]

That's exactly what a strop is...just a piece of leather....there is no need for a fancy strop.

 

[Doug]

Buy The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening to understand the geometry of a sharp edge. Keeping the angle consistent is vital; if the angle between the blade and the sharpening surface varies, the edge will be rounded, not sharp.
I use a Lansky sharpener to set the primary and secondary angles.
I use a Razor Edge pocket steel to polish the edge and steel the edge after about every 30 minutes of use. I do not use a strop.