lee pro 1000 and lee 4 hole turret press

[45calibre]

Do you mean the Loadmaster?

yes the loadmaster.

 

[45calibre]

i did some research and i came up with a quick list of all the things ill need. this is $214 without shipping. i decided not to skimp on a scale and chose a dillon so i dont overcharge anything. my ultimate goal in reloading is to be able to go to the range at least one a month and shoot at least 200-300 rounds, more if possible.

· Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press- $50 Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press
· Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale-$55 Dillon's 'Eliminator' Scale: Powder Scales
· Hornady Electronic Caliper 6" Stainless Steel- $25 Electronic Caliper 6 SS
· Lee Auto Prime XR Hand Priming Tool, auto prime shell holder- $17+$3 Auto Prime XR Hand Priming Tool Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool Shellholder #19 (9mm Luger 40 S&W 10mm Auto)
· Lee press shell holder- $4 Universal Shellholder #19 (9mm Luger 40 S&W 10mm Auto)
· Lee carbide dies- $40 Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set 40 S&W 10mm Auto
· Lee perfect powder measure- $20 Perfect Powder Measure

 

[kludge]

I started out slow, took my time. I watched a lot of videos on youtube because I had read all the negative comments. I highly recommend the videos. It's pretty simple actually.

I got both the large and small primer kit. I also got the Universal Decapping Die. This eliminates the major complaint about priming issues. Decap with UDD in station 1, pull the decapper out of the sizing die and put the sizing die in station 2. The sizing die in station 2 holds the case in perfect alignment while the case is being primed. This only works for pistol calibers.

People said the primers system is a problem. Advocated say, just keep primers in the tray. This has been true for me. Once I let the tray go low on purpose, just to see what would happen. Sure enough, on the last few primers in the chute... like 5 or so... I would get primers that wouldn't feed; I got one that was crushed sideways in the primer pocket. If there are primers in the tray I have not had one single issue. Knock on wood.

You will have to take time and adjust the priming lever for each case you want to load, but really that's the longest part of the caliber swtich over. Everything else is cake.

If you're going to do rifle you'll probably need the "riser" for the Auto Disk. You should get the "Pro" Auto Disk in the kit. I didn't get the riser but I will because I plan on doing a bunch of .223. The Pro Auto Disc doesn't like Unique, but that's not uncommon. I was getting charges that were off by ~0.5gr either way the first time I tried it. My favorite pistol powders are dead nutz on and flow perfectly. (No.2, Universal, No.7). In fact I spot checked No.7 the first time I used it in the Loadmaster and my charges did not vary, not even 0.1gr.

I also got the case coallator. This is nice when you load a lot of one thing. If you switch calibers a lot the case feeder will have to be adjusted. I switch calibers a lot, so I don't even put it on unless I'm loading .40 (that's what I shoot the most of).

I seat and crimp with the Factory Crimp Die in separate steps with revolver cartridges because I like the control it give me. (Lee pistol dies do a nice job without needing the FCD, IMO)

I want to get another ProAuto Disk so I can leave one set up on my .40S&W turret.

 

[kludge]

· Lee press shell holder- $4 Universal Shellholder #19 (9mm Luger 40 S&W 10mm Auto)
· Lee carbide dies- $40 Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set 40 S&W 10mm Auto

The press shell holder comes with the Lee dies.

Save your money and get the 3-die set. No need for the FCD on .40 S&W... unless you going to fix Glocked brass before loading it. (search on youtube)

And Natchez usually beats Midway prices by a few bucks... and shipping at Midway is generally high.

 

[45calibre]

The press shell holder comes with the Lee dies.

Save your money and get the 3-die set. No need for the FCD on .40 S&W... unless you going to fix Glocked brass before loading it. (search on youtube)

And Natchez usually beats Midway prices by a few bucks... and shipping at Midway is generally high.

FCD means factory crimp die? who not? wouldn't it be better?

 

[shibumiseeker]

FCD means factory crimp die? who not? wouldn't it be better?

Go ahead and get the FCD, it's much simpler than setting up the bullet seating die to crimp, a step that is predicated upon each piece of brass being uniform length. We're not talking about more than a few bucks difference in cost and if you decide you don't need to do that step then you don't have to use it.

 

[kevinsr98]

I bought the classic turret press only, I already had a single stage before that and had some of the other stuff. The kits are nice though, but that lee scale is garbage lol.

I am very happy with it. No bad as of yet, occasionally a primer will be flipped or fall out of the cup, but rarely. Changes are easy when you buy additional turrets. I have four already set up and ready to go. Literally 2 minutes changeover if both calibers are running the same primers, maybe 4 if they arent.

Eventually I will step it up to a progressive but I just don't shoot enough to warrant it right now. Both of my presses have been Lee and both have been excellent.

I will probably spring for a loadmaster some day, the pro 1000 is nice but I prefer the loadmaster for its strength and 4 die capability. On my 9mm, 40, and 45 I use the factory crimp die in the 4th position.

The loadmaster actually has 5 die capability. If you keep an eye out you can pick up a Loadmaster fairly cheap. I have two of them and they work great! I have less than $400 in both used, I also got 3 sets of dies, and all the extras.
I think a lot of people buy them and get frustrated. There is a learning curve. But with youtube it's not too bad. Anyway, they get mad and sell them for a loss. That's how I got both of mine.
I still have a turret press and have tried the pro1000. The Loadmaster is hands down better in my experience FWIW. I load handgun ammo only, and you can crank out a lot with the Loadmaster.
PM me if you get one, I would be glad to help you get it going. Good luck.

 

[45calibre]

The loadmaster actually has 5 die capability. If you keep an eye out you can pick up a Loadmaster fairly cheap. I have two of them and they work great! I have less than $400 in both used, I also got 2 sets of dies, and all the extras.
I think a lot of people buy them and get frustrated. There is a learning curve. But with youtube it's not too bad. Anyway, they get mad and sell them for a loss. That's how I got both of mine.
I still have a turret press and have tried the pro1000. The Loadmaster is hands down better in my experience FWIW. I load handgun ammo only, and you can crank out a lot with the Loadmaster.
PM me if you get one, I would be glad to help you get it going. Good luck.

did you have to do a lot of mods to it to get it going good? theyre $218 on natchess.

 

[rockhopper46038]

You might try factory sales.com for pricing on Lee stuff. Sometimes they are the absolute cheapest. They also are in Wisconsin and its usually no more than 2 days to get your stuff.

 

[pinshooter45]

You'll also want one of these, if you don't already have something to mount it to:
https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...eloading_supplies/164627-reloading_bench.html

 

[kevinsr98]

did you have to do a lot of mods to it to get it going good? theyre $218 on natchess.

That's not bad. You will also want to get a factory crimp die for each caliber and an extra decapper die for each also.
Station 1- Decapper
Station 2- Decapper with pin removed(it alleviates a lot of primer problems)
Station 3- Powder charge/case flare
Station 4- Bullet seat/Crimp (but you won't use the crimp feature here)
Station 5- Factory crimp die
With this set up and some time on youtube, you'll be GTG.

When I said I got all the extras for that price that included FCD's, extra turrets, shell plate holders, bullet feeders, dies and alot of other spare parts in 9mm, 45acp and 44 mag.

Didn't do what I would call "modifications", more of learning how to tweek and adjust it to get it working the best. And just a piece of advice, keep extras of the plastic parts. They don't cost much and it will save you down time if/when one breaks or wears out.

 

[kludge]

FCD means factory crimp die?

Yes.

who not? wouldn't it be better?

For auto pistols it's not needed. For the last 15 years or so the Lee seat/crimp die is doing essentilly the same thing as the FCD, and it's easy to set up.

For the revolvers I get them for every caliber. I like the flexibility, and I don't know why but it's not as easy to set up the seat/crimp die for revolver cartridges and get the crimp just how you like it. when you load .38/.357 and .45/454 with the same dies it's very helpful to dial in the exact amounf or crimp you want.

For the auto calibers you're really just taking the "bell" out of the case mouth.

 

[04DarkShadowGT]

Yes.



For auto pistols it's not needed. For the last 15 years or so the Lee seat/crimp die is doing essentilly the same thing as the FCD, and it's easy to set up.

For the revolvers I get them for every caliber. I like the flexibility, and I don't know why but it's not as easy to set up the seat/crimp die for revolver cartridges and get the crimp just how you like it. when you load .38/.357 and .45/454 with the same dies it's very helpful to dial in the exact amounf or crimp you want.

For the auto calibers you're really just taking the "bell" out of the case mouth.

I find just the opposite. I dont use the factory crimp die on 38 or 357 but do on 9mm, 40, and 45.

My thought process is on the semi auto stuff I would rather have a more accurate crimp because of all the movement of the round. I want to have as little chance of the bullet being seated further when its being ejected from the magazine, put up the ramp, and into the chamber. Also I find it easier to dial in the crimp on a single die on 38/357. Its not hard on the others but I just think it does a better job for me. Not saying I am right, probably not as I have been doing it for a lot less time. But thats what I find works for me.

 

[kludge]

did you have to do a lot of mods to it to get it going good? theyre $218 on natchess.

Zero mods on mine.

 

[XtremeVel]

my ultimate goal in reloading is to be able to go to the range at least one a month and shoot at least 200-300 rounds, more if possible.

It comes down to how much time you are willing to spend in that month to load that 200-300 rounds... The turret could easily handle that task in a short 2-3 hours.

I have the Classic turret and couldn't be happier. Now days, the single stage rarely gets used.

I also buy the (4) die sets with the FCD included and use the FCD for both auto loaders and revolvers, but for different reasons...

 

[45calibre]

That's not bad. You will also want to get a factory crimp die for each caliber and an extra decapper die for each also.
Station 1- Decapper
Station 2- Decapper with pin removed(it alleviates a lot of primer problems)
Station 3- Powder charge/case flare
Station 4- Bullet seat/Crimp (but you won't use the crimp feature here)
Station 5- Factory crimp die
With this set up and some time on youtube, you'll be GTG.

When I said I got all the extras for that price that included FCD's, extra turrets, shell plate holders, bullet feeders, dies and alot of other spare parts in 9mm, 45acp and 44 mag.

Didn't do what I would call "modifications", more of learning how to tweek and adjust it to get it working the best. And just a piece of advice, keep extras of the plastic parts. They don't cost much and it will save you down time if/when one breaks or wears out.

so right out of the box when you set it up it was running good? as long as i set it up good ill be fine? i might as well get the loadmaster since it comes with everthing and its cheaper than a turret set up.

 

[kludge]

For station 1 consider a Universal Decapping die Instead of a sizing/decapping die. Then you can use the UDD for more than one caliber.

45caliber, is this your first relaoding setup? If so you might also want to get a single stage press.

 

[45calibre]

For station 1 consider a Universal Decapping die Instead of a sizing/decapping die. Then you can use the UDD for more than one caliber.

45caliber, is this your first relaoding setup? If so you might also want to get a single stage press.

yes it will be a first.

 

[rlw9337]

I have used the Pro 1000 press. The 40 has worked better than the 9mm. The 40 seems to hold the cartridges more firmly. The Pro 1000 can not be forced. If you get a glitch clear the problem and do not try to push thru the problem. I have a few of the nylon ratchet spare parts in case I get it out of time. The ratchet will slip a little and the center seems to get stretched. A partial stroke can get you out of time. When my timing is good the machine delivers. We've run several thousand rounds thru this machine. If you want to crush primers (revolvers) in the Pro 1000, it didn't work well for me - I couldn't get them as flattened as much as I like.

 

[rcam1977]

reloading presses

i have a Lee 4hole turret press and would recomend it to anybody just getting into reloading, its a little intimidating at first if you have have never used a reloading press. i bought mine as a kit for 115.00 on ebay and got both the small and large primer feeders, with the box style auto disk powder thrower, and thye lee powder scale which is difficult to use, i deffinately suggest a digital scal and good digital calliper. just buy a turret for each set of dies and its a quick process to change between loading different calibers, and if you get the Richard Lee book,it gives you all the data for the auto disc , there not always 100% accurate but give you a good starting point. you also get a chart with the lee dies, but the Richard Lee reloading book is a good book to have on hand as well.