Mosin Jamming

[kriggo15]

Just got my mosin 91/30 a few weeks ago and the first time I shot it, it jammed using non-corrosive ammo. It was so jammed that I had to put the receiver in a vise and hit the bolt handle with a hammer to open the bolt. Then it took several hits from the rod to un-jam the empty casing.

I took it apart and cleaned it again thinking that maybe I didn't get the cosmoline all the way out.

I took it out last night to shoot some surplus ammo and it did the exact same thing on the first shot.

Any suggestions on how to fix this?

 

[mammynun]

YouTube - mosin sticky bolt

and

https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/long_guns/99189-bolt_difficulty_with_my_mosin_nagant.html

 

[Leo]

What does the brass look like? It the primer flattened out badly, or the case badly deformed? The brass will show if it is a heavily pitted chamber or if you are having dangerous over pressure problems. Be warned, those rifle hadd a lot of sketchy life over the last 75 or so years. I have seen some that a .312 bullet would almost fall through and I had one that was a fresh Tikka rebuild that was a true .308 barrel. Look at the brass, lead slug the bore to get a good measurement, measure the ammo. Remember, those rifles were commie war tools, that did not have to be manufactured or rebuilt under sammi specs. PLEASE STOP shooting it until you get the problem figured out! I do not want to read in the paper that you died when the rifle blew 1/2 your face off.

 

[kriggo15]

Thanks for the replies. I will try to take a picture of the brass tonight and post it. I have watched the youtube video and plan on doing an even more extensive cleaning and polishing of the chamber tonight.

Leo, what do you mean by lead slug the bore?

 

[ragnar]

sticky bolt

your best bet is going at the bore with a 12 ga brush soaked in solvent. What I usually do is put the end of a cleaning rod into a drill, screw on a brush, soak it in solvent, and go at the bore. A trick that usually works for nagants all around is stripping off all the wood parts, and boil up a whole bunch of water, then pour the water over all the metal parts. Of course be cautious not to burn yourself

 

[kriggo15]

I've read a bunch of today about the issue I am having and was planning on boiling some water when I go home to pour over the metal. Will most of the cosmoline come out this way or will it just heat up and repel the water since it is a grease? I am just curious as to how much hot water will remove.

 

[Leo]

One of the methods of getting an accurate measurement of the rifled bore is to get a piece of soft lead. (In your case a piece of 00 buckshot will be enough) Drive it into the muzzle a couple inches deep and then drive it out with a good, rigid rod. The lands and grooves will be cut into the lead. Now you can easily measure both the minor and major diameter of the rifle bore with a standard dial caliper.

BTW, lighter fluid cuts cosmoline. best done outdoors with no fire or flame nearby.

 

[ragnar]

the boiling water heats up the cosmoline to its melting point. That's the key. Leo is right, you can also use lighter fluid or several other chemicals. Just make sure you take the wood far far away.

 

[christman]

Diesel fuel also works well if you work or live near a garage.

 

[kriggo15]

So I came home, cleaned with lighter fluid and then boiling water. Cleaned everything extremely well and disassembled the bolt and reassembled. Just took it out and shot it and same *&$# thing.

I took a couple of pics to show what it looks like after firing. You can see the scuff marks that were made while trying to un-jam it on the side.

Can someone please help me out!?

 

[Leo]

The pictures look like the brass is flowing into heavy pitting in the chamber. Really a bad thing. Any chance you can take it back? It is not safe to shoot. To fix the problem, you will need to change the barrel. For a high dollar rifle, a gunsmith can bore the chamber and sliver solder in a sleeve, but that cost would be more that 3 nagants could cost. Sorry man.

 

[kriggo15]

Can't take it back. Bought it from AIM Surplus and just passed the 30 day mark.

 

[mammynun]

Leo may be correct about the pitting in the chamber, but I think that I would try a more aggressive cleaning before I wrote it off. Mosin's can have some ungodly crud in their chambers. Can you see any pitting (or anything that doesn't look "right") in the chamber?

 

[kriggo15]

I can't see anything that would make me think it wouldn't work. Then again I'm not the best judge. I'll probably have to take it to a gunsmith.

 

[sgreen3]

to the OP were bouts in southern,In you located?

 

[kriggo15]

to the OP were bouts in southern,In you located?

Corydon

 

[johntheplinker]

Hey, I'm just over from you in Perry Co., if you want I'd be willing to meet you halfway and take a look at it. It might be some pitting in the chamber, or it could be some crud as mammynun suggested. Even if it is pitting, it might be possible to polish out the worst of it.

 

[kriggo15]

Hey, I'm just over from you in Perry Co., if you want I'd be willing to meet you halfway and take a look at it. It might be some pitting in the chamber, or it could be some crud as mammynun suggested. Even if it is pitting, it might be possible to polish out the worst of it.

Sounds great... Pm sent.

 

[Libertarian01]

Kriggo15,

First, sorry to hear about your problem. Mosins are known for sticky bolt issues.

That said, looking at your spent cartridges it would appear that something is scraping the sides in the exact same pattern. This may be something for you to look down there and see if there is a spur or something. If you can't find anything maybe a gunsmith could have better luck.

Also, that ammo IS corrosive! Everything surplus and eastern bloc is corrosive and you should clean with anticorrosives after every time at the range. The only stuff that comes in tin cans that isn't corrosive is new in a box and is Wolf, Brown Bear, or Tula ammo.

Good Luck.

Regards,

Doug