My first stipple job attempt on my S&W M&P 40 Pro

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  • T4rdV4rk

    Sharpshooter
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    May 1, 2012
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    NWI
    I agree.

    That said, what does doing something like this do to the resale value of a firearm?

    I would generally consider it to decrease the value. Understanding guns are meant to be shot, I still prefer mine as new as possible when buying used.

    Some people might pay more for a great job like that though!
     

    RobbyMaQ

    #BarnWoodStrong
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    Mar 26, 2012
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    Lizton
    I did this to one of my backstraps as well. The beauty of this with an M&P is replacement backstraps are super cheap if you screw it up. I still haven't worked up the courage to stipple the actual frame. I kind of feel like its one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" situations. I love the way it feels now.

    Go for it! The frame, being harder material, doesn't 'melt' as quickly as the backstraps. This (IMO) makes it easier. well... alcohol helps also :D

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...ers_with_firearms_and_a_soldering_iron-2.html
     

    DustyDawg48

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    May 11, 2010
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    Mount Vernon
    DUDE! Normally I want to vomit when I see stipple jobs but that one is absolutely brilliant! I seriously cannot think of a better looking stipple job out there. Bravo!
     

    Indycobalt19

    Plinker
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    Oct 13, 2011
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    Greenwood
    Perhaps you can give a short write-up of what you did, how you did it and provide any tips.

    No problem. Well first thing that i did was get the materials. I got a nice soldering iron off of amazon for 12 bucks shipped. Its a Weller 40w soldering iron kit. The kit included the iron, a stand, and three different tips. I used the fine tip on my gun. Then you will need to have some sort of tape just to mark the edges of what you do and do not want stippled. I just looked at the gun and followed its natural lines to make a basic area of what i wanted. Then i just started on the bottom of the gun in the corner towards the mag well and just worked my way up the frame. After doing it for the first time it actually wasn't that bad, it just take a lot of focus and patience. But before i tried this stippling on a firearm, i made sure to practice on a pmag just to get the technique down. I would highly recommend practicing on a pmag or something relatively cheap so you don't mess up a $500 gun. Hope this helps!

    DUDE! Normally I want to vomit when I see stipple jobs but that one is absolutely brilliant! I seriously cannot think of a better looking stipple job out there. Bravo!

    Thanks! :yesway:
     

    n9znd

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    Jul 28, 2009
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    Lafayette
    Great job on your stipple job. I have done a few guns myself and love the feel of them. Here is my little TCP that I did last night. The little .380 would dig into your hand a little but still felt slick. A nice stipple job feels like Velcro. Loev the way mine turned out. Jim
    TCP3_zps5bfd5f61.jpg

    TCP4_zps422a3467.jpg
     

    Ltrain

    Marksman
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    Jun 8, 2012
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    Ok. You talked me into it. I've been throwing around the idea of doin it to my Springfield XD 45 or my M&P 9c. I've done several Pmags and they came out real nice. Time to test it out on a gun.
     

    CQB

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    Jul 4, 2012
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    Central North Forty
    Best thing I ever did to my G23. Also used a Dremel to reduce the front strap. I had tried a couple different slip-ons. Just made the already giant grip bigger in my non-giant paws. I wasn't concerned about adding or negating value, this gun is a keeper. Still may alter the final shape of the stippling, haven't decided yet. Not too aggressive, doesn't bother my skin when holstered.

    I think the keys for success are:

    First thing - practice on something non-important to get the feel of the process. Different plastics react differently to the hot iron - be aware. The first time I stippled a Glock for instance, I did a small area inside the frame under the recoil spring out of sight to see how the plastic reacted or how fast it melts.

    1. Plan your area and mask it off with tape
    2. Use a fine tip on the iron
    3. Keep the tip clean
    4. Keep the tip hot - keeping the tip clean aids this - may need a few breaks to let the iron regain heat if it is a low wattage model.
    5. Keep the iron tip perpendicular to the target
    6. Use short, shallow, random strokes - you can always go back over an area if the texture isn't aggressive enough for your liking. You can not undo your mistake if you go too deep as a starting point (there are a lot of "that's what she said" moments here).
    7. Take breaks, it's not a race. Tunnel vision and fatigue lead to unwanted mistakes
    8. Personally, I like to very lightly run a fine foam nail file over the finished area to take off the sharpest edges and remove any loose material.

    Deciding to do it yourself is honestly the hardest part of the whole process.

    2hqdxna.jpg
     
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