Need help with a H&R Sportsman .22 revolver

[magic man]

It looks like the tip of the firing pin/hammer is either broken off or bent. From what I can tell it doesn't come out far enough to strike the round.

Here are some pics-

Does anyone know if I can still get a new hammer for this?

The only other problem it has is that is it very hard to pull the hammer back or the trigger double action. This isn't the case when it broken open, so the problem seems to be cylinder being stiff. That should be taken care of with a good cleaning which it'll get tomorrow. I'm sure being in an attic for the past 20+ years didn't help it.


Any other info about it is appreciated. Age, value, etc.


Full pic-

 

[Cat-Herder]

You might be able to find what you're looking for here. If you can't, and are willing to sell it, i have been looking for a 999/sportsman parts gun for quite a while. I've got one my grand-dad trained me on, and i'd like to have a spare. Good luck!

All Availble Harrington Richardson Gun Parts,Harrington Richardson Pistol parts, Harrington Richardson Shotgun parts, Harrington Richardson Obsolete Pistol Parts, Harrington Richardson Gun Stocks, Harrsington Richardson Semi Finish Gun Stocks, Harrin

 

[magic man]

Thanks for the link. I'll keep you in mind if I decide to get rid of it.


Anyone else?

 

[shootinghoosier]

Your gun looks like an older one, but without a serial no#, it's hard to tell. A day or so ago, somebody else was inquiring about value, age, etc. with a serial no# of 75xxx. I posted the following response:

The following is verbatim from Fjestad's 31st edition (copyright 2010), "Blue Book of Gun Values":
"Sportsman Double Action Model 999 Large Framed Top Break -
.22 LR or .22WRF cal., 7 (.22WRF cal.) or 9 shot, blue finish, 6 in. ribbed barrel, safety rim cylinder, automatic cylinder stop, adj. rear sight, three different front sights - fixed full blad, Partidge type, and Partridge type pinned to barrel top rib, finger rest trigger guard, one-piece oversized checkered walnut grips, birds-head grip fram (Rice frame), frame mounted firing pin, hammer face is flat, cylinder release is long pivoting lever on right side of frame (there are two different version of this), serial numbered in its own series from 01 up to at least 89761 by the end of 1939, starting in 1940 letter codes were used. Mrg. 1932 - 1952.
100% - $425
98% - $365
95% - $315
90% - $275
80% - $235
70% - $195

Early production until about 1933 the letter code "D" was used to denote double action.
First Variation; round heavy weight ribbed barrel with non-adjustable front sight blade - 1932 - to before April 18, 1933.
Second Variation; adjustable front sight - 1933 (after 4-18-1933)
Third Variation; firing pin moved to hammer - 1934
Fourth Variation; three inch barrel was offered - 1935
Fifth Variation; two patent dates marked on cylinder (before there was only one) - 1936 (after 3-17) - 1937
Sixth Variation; top of barrel markings moved to right side of barrel - 1937 - 1939
Seventh Variation; .22 WFR caliber dropped, 3 inch barrel dropped - 1940 - 1941
Eighth Variation; one piece over size plastic grips are standar, limited production during WWII Years - 19421 - 1952"

 

[speedsix]

I shot one of these when I was a kid and I seem to remember that the DA pull was very heavy and that may just be normal for this gun. I am not an expert but seemed to be just the way it was.

 

[magic man]

My serial number is D27xxx. That means it was made in 1932-1933 according to that info.

 

[freeclimber57]

i have a newer model. but yours should still not be hard to pull the trigger without cocking the hammer.

 

[Cat-Herder]

if you cock the hammer and ride it down with your thumb, will the firing pin protrude far enough to strike a cartridge rim? this model won't allow the hammer forward without pulling the trigger to the rear, i'm almost 100% certain of it. i'm at work and don't have mine handy!

 

[Calvin]

I have one made in 1934. It's also a Double Action. The DA is buttery smooth. It does sound like you have some sort of an issue there.

I have a .pdf of the disassembly of that model. It was difficult to find, but I found it in a book at the library and scanned it. It would help you in removing all parts for cleaning and inspection. I would be happy to email that to you if you PM me your email address.

 

[magic man]

Thanks for the info guys.

Cat-herder, I found that out on another forum and I'm happy to report the revolver fired just fine. Thanks for the info.

fc57, I cleaned the hell out of it and it's pretty darn smooth now. The cylinder was really gummed up and didn't turn well at all.

Calvin, I'll send you a PM. Thanks.
Also, when you take the cylinder off, is there anything other than the spring, the metal base for the spring, and the ejector? I'm having problems with the ejector resetting. I have to push it down to load the rounds. If I'm not careful when dumping the brass the ejector will fall right out.

 

[malern28us]

I just fixed my H&R after finding the parts in a Numrich catalog. I would definitely check with them. Their catalogs can be had for around $30. The bonus is that they have exploded diagrams on all the guns they offer parts for.

 

[magic man]

Also, when you take the cylinder off, is there anything other than the spring, the metal base for the spring, and the ejector? I'm having problems with the ejector resetting. I have to push it down to load the rounds. If I'm not careful when dumping the brass the ejector will fall right out.

I got this problem fixed thanks to your PDF Calvin. If you look at this diagram, I didn't realize that the ejector and part #12 screwed together.Numrich Gun Parts Corp. - The World's Largest Supplier of Firearms Parts and Accessories


Thanks for your help guys. The only other thing is that the firing pin is still bent, but I'm going to take it to a smith and see if he can straighten it out.

 

[Calvin]

Awesome! I'm glad it helped. It's amazing how helpful watching someone do the breakdown step by step is.