Need some guidance to reloading .223/5.56

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  • Seabass

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    7   0   0
    Jan 14, 2013
    61
    6
    NE Indiana
    Does anyone know if there is a beginner thread for .223/5.56 reloading? I have a Dillon 650. I ordered it with 45 ACP & 9mm. I've made about 1000 rounds total with no issue. I'm confident I can get my machine set up properly, it's about everything else that I have no clue. I've never loaded any rifle ammunition. I have all the basic reloading components, brass (mixed head stamp possibly some military), powder, primer, projectiles.

    I'm looking for information/guidance on the following:
    Case Prep Tools (Trim, Swage? Etc)
    Case Prep process.
    How do I identify military brass vs factory brass. And how does that impact the process?
    Specifically with the Dillon 650 I've been told I'll have to run my brass through it twice, why?

    Might there be anyone in NE Indiana using a 650XL that would be willing to show me their actual process? I'll do the work, you just tell me what to do!

    For my first run, I'll be using 55gr Hornady V Max, Hogdon H335, and No. 400 CCI Small Rifle Primers.

    Any guidance would be much appreciated.
     

    red_zr24x4

    UA#190
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Mar 14, 2009
    29,098
    113
    Walkerton
    On military brass that has a crimp ring you will either need to swage it or you can use your chamfer tool. Just don't remove to much using the chamfer tool.
    Commercial brass about the only thing you'll need to check is that the flash hole is open and that there isn't excessive carbon.
    As to your question about identifying military brass, most of it will be marked with the nato cross, which is a + inside a circle .
    You will see a ring stamped around the primer or 3 hash marks around it
     

    Gluemanz28

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    29   0   0
    Mar 4, 2013
    7,430
    113
    Elkhart County
    I have a trim station that I run all of my cases through. It has a crimp remover, pocket cleaner and brush. I find it just as easy to run each case through instead of inspecting them. It takes about the same amount of time and they are all ready for primers after afterwards.

    I have a new hornady LNL trimmer with drill adapter for sale if you are in need for one. I'm located in Elkhart. Send me a PM and I will give you more information.
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    Specifically with the Dillon 650 I've been told I'll have to run my brass through it twice, why?

    I do two passes on my 550 (two toolheads).

    First pass sizes/deprimes and trims (I use the dillon trimmer).

    If you're using another trimmer just do it between passes. I then tumble briefly to remove lube and brass shavings. At this point I swage the primer pockets if necessary.

    Second pass uses a universal decapper (to make sure no tumbling media in the flash hole), powder drop, bullet seat, and (if you so choose, I don't) crimp (basically just like running pistol ammo on the second pass).

    If you don't need to trim/swage you could do it in one pass. Get's kinda messy w/ the lube though....

    IMO you should have a case gauge to make sure you have the shoulder set back the right amount.

    -rvb
     
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