New 1911 Full Build

[ghuns]

You are also correct that buying the mill is the easy part. I could spend 10x that price in tooling and probably still need more.

Just tooled up a pair of 630mm pallet horizontal machining centers. I feel your pain.

 

[bdybdall]

I just stumbled on this thread and I had to read every post. As a 30+ year tool maker, I appreciate the machining that was done. It's amazing what can be done on a Bridgeport (or other mill) with some specialized tooling. I imagine you created a lot of it yourself. Did you use a rotab or a rotary cross-slide to cut the grip serrations? I can do machining well but I would be afraid to cut into gun parts not really knowing what to do to them.

 

[Cree]

Bdydall,

Thank you for the kind words! I used an indexing head to cut the front strap checkering. I use this homemade fixture on the indexer to hold the frame. It works well, but not the best solution.

One of the best things going for me is a very good friend with 30-years of machinist experience who has helped me with setups, tooling, technique, knowledge, suggestions, etc. Gentlemen like my good friend, and you, have SOOO much experience and knowledge that you are a huge assets to gunsmiths and guys like me.

 

[SPOOK331945]

Being a Tool Maker myself (not 30+ years experience though , one day.. one day..) this has been a very very interesting thread.. I work a lot with molding and stamping tooling for small electrical components, I haven't gotten the chance to do some "REAL" gunsmithing myself yet. Machined a couple things on a friends mill but I don't considered AR15 builds gunsmithing more like a lego set haha. Unfortunately the company I work for isn't gun friendly nor off the clock work friendly. I've been trying to get tooled up the myself the past couple years so I can start doing work like this. Got a M2HB project coming up, most of that work is just drilling the side plate, not creating a work of art like this. Love to be a gunsmiths apprentice for a couple years.

VERY clean table and organized tools.. Bravo sir, bravo

 

[madvarminter]

Love watching art come to life

 

[Cree]

You've likely heard of the slide debacle that I am finally out from under, but if not, I ordered a bunch of slides from a company and get several hours of work into them before I realized they had major problems. The company was outstanding in their customer service and refunded my money. In came JEM to the rescue and they have been catching me up on slides. The slide for this 1911 will be here soon, so I am working on a few small items now.

I high-cut the underneath side of the trigger guard on the mill and then blended it by hand. I'm considering checkering the trigger guard as well.

 

[churchmouse]

Man I do like that.

 

[Steel and wood]

That blend between the trigger guard and frame is outstanding. Ever time you post it makes me want to turn my RO into something special. Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship with us.

 

[churchmouse]

That blend between the trigger guard and frame is outstanding. Ever time you post it makes me want to turn my RO into something special. Thank you for sharing your craftsmanship with us.

Do it. The RO is a great platform to modify. I have done it to more than a few.
Not wanting to divert the thread but this is an RO.....well, the frame and slide is anyway......
I have changed up the color scheme but the gun remains as we built it.

 

[Cree]

I agree with Churchmouse, the RO is a good 1911 to build upon. The undercut could easily be done with files, it would just require some extra care and patience. If you have access to a mill, then give a few upgrades a try! New internals, fitting a new BTGS, contouring new thumb safeties - there is quite a few things you can do to upgrade your 1911.

 

[Steel and wood]

You guys are getting me off the fence I don’t have that one pistol that is my personal piece. Great ideas thank you both.

 

[Cree]

Before and after on fire control parts. I apologize, the shinny surfaces cause havoc with my camera.

 

[churchmouse]

I have never addressed the the end of the hammer strut and spring plunger in that fashion...........Me likey.

 

[Cree]

Churchmouse, thank you! The reason I do it, aside from the fact that it does reduce friction, is that I have replaced mainspring caps with heavy gouges in them from struts with flat sides, or were too sharp on the end. The strut will eventually wear a heavy grove into the cap. Can it be felt? Not so sure about that, but it will certainly last longer and provide good service. For what custom guns cost these days, it is cheap insurance and a nice touch.

 

[Cree]

Some before and after pics of softening up the lines on the EGW grip safeties. Maintained the lines, but made them look and feel a lot softer - if metal can be described as "softer"...

 

[churchmouse]

Churchmouse, thank you! The reason I do it, aside from the fact that it does reduce friction, is that I have replaced mainspring caps with heavy gouges in them from struts with flat sides, or were too sharp on the end. The strut will eventually wear a heavy grove into the cap. Can it be felt? Not so sure about that, but it will certainly last longer and provide good service. For what custom guns cost these days, it is cheap insurance and a nice touch.

As in anything you can not ever do "Enough" when building something like this. Every contact point can and should be addressed. I do this when building engines for people. Drag racers mostly. People on a tight budget. Make it live for them just that much longer. Same with what you are doing.
Thanks for sharing that. Next deep clean cycle on my pieces I will give this area some time.