New to realoding

[AR Maker]

I am concidering taking up reloading. I have been given a Press and a set of dies for .45 and .223. besides brass, primers, bullets, and powder what will I need to get started? Next where can this stuff be had? And is it honestly more economical to reload or just buy new?

 

[shibumiseeker]

For supplies you may have to hunt around some to find it in your local shops. Once you have components you like you'll find it is much cheaper to order them bulk online.

As far as saving money, you will end up spending as much if not more. But you will shoot a LOT more. Once you've got your bulk sources nailed down, your price per shot for ammo can be anywhere from 75% to 25% of commercial ammo depending on what calibers and type of ammunition (plinking or precision) you are loading.

The NEXT thing you need to get is a good reloading manual. There's several available and they are all pretty good for the novice reloader. Get this and read it before you start reloading. While reloading can be pretty safe, there's some places where error can have serious consequences and result in injury and damage to equipment.

 

[kludge]

Must Haves:

Manual (Lyman #49 and/or the one from your favorite bullet maker)
Read it twice.
Load data online can be found at all the powder makers' websites.
Log book (spiral notebook works, so does a spreadsheet)

Scale
Powder measure
Calipers
Case lube (for resizing all rifle brass)
Case trimmer
Case chamfer tool
Primer pocket cleaner

First Additions:

Brass Tumbler
Tumbling media and case cleaner/polish
Chronograph

 

[Terry A]

Reloading

I am concidering taking up reloading. I have been given a Press and a set of dies for .45 and .223. besides brass, primers, bullets, and powder what will I need to get started? Next where can this stuff be had? And is it honestly more economical to reload or just buy new?

You can save money reloading.You can also spend a little or a bunch on reloading equipment ,such as press and prepping tools depending on what you decide you want. I would suggest you first get a reloading manual, or try to find someone close to you to help you start out. A good place to buy STUFF is Shooting Supplies, Reloading, Gunsmithing, Hunting, Ammunition, Gun Parts & Rifle Scopes — MidwayUSA If you already have a press and dies that is a good START, depending on how much you shoot and how much time you want to spend on reloading. It is very easy to do and can get addictive and like any thing else, the better the quality of the reloading tools you get, will probably make it,faster , much easier, and last longer, and cost less in the long run. There is good info on this sight and you can get answers to any question you have. When first starting out take your time and go slow.

 

[snapping turtle]

It adds a whole new dimension to your shooting.

Manuals are essential. Safety is of the upmost importance.

I have some calibers that are just to expensive to shoot without reloading. 7-30 waters is one. I straight walled cases like 45 38 357 and 44 mag are easier to start with.

A couple of other items you might want to look at would be a bullet puller, (15 dollars or so) A very sturdy work bench, and good lighting for the work area.

 

[Skip]

Depends on what you mean by cheaper!

Is reloading cheaper? Yes. Will you save money by reloading? No, because you will shoot much more. If you used to spend $20 on ammo, and that got you 50 rounds, now it can get you up to 200 if you do things right.

You will still spend that $20, it's just human nature. Expendable income is going to be expendable income. Unless you become unemployed that is!


The thing about being able to reload is that you will always have ammo. You will always have the exact ammo you want. If you want something different in the same caliber, pull some bullets and make them over again.

I like casting too. It takes my handload cost down to the $1.50/50 or less for 50 rounds of 45ACP target ammo.

A good place to get equipment is your local shop. Check with other shooters in your area. Another place is Kempf Gun Shop in Michigan City, IN. They have a website. They usually have about any kind of Lee equipment you would want in stock.

Manuals are nice but not just for the data. The articles in them are essential to proper skill development. Having a mentor is a good thing to.

A balance beam scale is also an essential thing. There are lots of ways to measure powder but you will need to check those means against a good scale.

A set of calipers. Some bullets don't have a crimp groove and you will need to make sure your bullet isn't seated too deep. If there is anything that will destroy a handgun it is a bullet that is seated too deep. Pressures rise exponentially.

Hope this helps!

 

[super38]

Always use another source to verify the load data. Check your bullet maker manual against the powder companies.. Quality is always better than quantity.
Safer, at least.

 

[Hoosier]

All the suggestions from others are on target. Additionally, it's important to determine if your dies are carbide...carbide dies do not require lube...standard dies require lube. I use cartridge gauges to check dimensions. It's a "machined tube" that is created for a specific cartridge. You drop in a reloaded cartridge and if the cartridge fits...it's in spec.
I reload 375 H&H magnums...if I have the brass to reload...it costs $15 for twenty. The purchase price of a manufactured box is $45 to $50.
Good Luck...Please ask any questions of the members...there is a wealth of experience on this site.
Hoosier

 

[Robert Richardson]

Patience and the willingness to read.

 

[308jake]

which type of die is better, carbide or standard?

 

[shibumiseeker]

which type of die is better, carbide or standard?

Carbide for the win. You don't have to lube cases and they last a lot longer and are more resistant to scratching/wear.

 

[308jake]

thanks. I'm just getting into reloading too and bought some dies and presses off of clist. This may be a stupid question, but how do you tell the difference?

 

[jblomenberg16]

Carbide is going to be more forgiving of cases that are not as clean, will probably last longer, and does need as much if any lube for a full length resize.

Depending on the die and the brand, they aren't that much more expensive than standard dies.

I'm fairly new to reloading as well, and just make it a rule to lube my rifle cases that are full length sized, and I'll be honest that I don't know if those dies are carbide or not. Dies for my pistol cartriges are carbide and I don't lube them.

 

[shibumiseeker]

Carbide is going to be more forgiving of cases that are not as clean, will probably last longer, and does need as much if any lube for a full length resize.

Depending on the die and the brand, they aren't that much more expensive than standard dies.

I'm fairly new to reloading as well, and just make it a rule to lube my rifle cases that are full length sized, and I'll be honest that I don't know if those dies are carbide or not. Dies for my pistol cartriges are carbide and I don't lube them.

Most (not all, but most) rifle dies are not carbide. It's harder to do carbide dies for rifle since the case walls are not straight. For pistol dies they just use a ring of carbide material for the resize which is much cheaper than having to make a longer tapered body.

 

[jblomenberg16]

Most (not all, but most) rifle dies are not carbide. It's harder to do carbide dies for rifle since the case walls are not straight. For pistol dies they just use a ring of carbide material for the resize which is much cheaper than having to make a longer tapered body.

Thanks for the info...that makes good sense.

Good thing I'm lubing all of my rifle cases!

 

[308jake]

thanks. I will lube them too.

 

[Hazwhopper]

If you are near Farmersburg, there is gun store that sells Lee Precision equipment. He can set up a Progressive loader 223 and or 45 and when you walk out the equipment is ready to add material and start loading. He will show you how to start and soon you will be making up to 500 rounds an hour. I start with a single stage and it is alot slower but every step is done one by one and you have less problems with misfires. That is until you feel you have the handle on it and then you start going faster and then you make your first mistake. IT WILL HAPPEN! I have to say it does and then you regain your respect for reloading all over again. So I soon learned to make 5 rounds - shoot them - check them for problems and then if I liked the accuracy and feel then reload 50 + 3. Then shoot the 3 to make sure they are what you want then you still have a box of 50 for the shelve. I bought some Avery labels and make my own labels to place on boxes to identify the powder - caliber- case- how many times loaded- bullets - where from- and date. Then I bought some nail polish and water proof the primers and bullet ends . Cheaper and still effective.
Good luck

 

[Big Mac 1911]

Haz,

What is the name of the store, or location? Thanks

 

[Big Mac 1911]

Then I bought some nail polish and water proof the primers and bullet ends . Cheaper and still effective.
Good luck

Is this something that has to be done? I never thought of painting the primer or bullet crimp ends....

 

[shibumiseeker]

Is this something that has to be done? I never thought of painting the primer or bullet crimp ends....

Only if you are planning on using your ammo under extreme wet weather conditions (like you are going to be out in the weather for weeks on end like soldiers), or if your rounds are going to be exposed to a lot of oil where it has a chance to soak in. Oil won't kill primers, but it can kill powder. Not a little oil residue, it takes a fair amount. The only issue I ever had was once with a gun that I used for EDC and had to oil it every couple of days in the summer to keep it from rusting. The top round in the magazine pushed the bullet into the barrel from the primer (factory ammo), but that was after 3-4 months of not rotating the ammo through and constant exposure to oil. Otherwise don't bother, though I sometimes use nail polish to mark different colors on rounds that have different charges when I am working up a load (I do this less now that my reloading station and range hut are the same building).