New to reloading

[Big J]

I am trying to get started in reloading and having some trouble with the powder. I have been told not all power is the same. Is this true?

 

[Fishersjohn48]

Yes. have you read and understand a couple good manuals like Lee Modern Reloading or Lyman's 49th edition? If you don't understand what powder you are using and can see the differences from the load charts stop reloading now and buy factory ammo. Sorry but not understanding anything about reloading is asking for trouble and I for one do not want to be the guy standing next to you at the range when your pistol blows up. I have not reloaded a single round yet but have been studying for over a year so that i know what I am getting into.

 

[ckcollins2003]

I am trying to get started in reloading and having some trouble with the powder. I have been told not all power is the same. Is this true?

To answer your question, yes, every powder will burn differently. Don't just stop completely and buy factory ammo. That's not the answer and I know it's not what you want to do. Buy a reloading manual and read about the powders and that will tell you what you need to know. Don't reload anything until you know what you need and what you are doing. Making a mistake in a reloading process can cause serious injury and possibly death.

Some powders are rifle powders, some are pistol powders, and some are shotshell powders. Each burn in their own way to benefit the type of round you are shooting.

If you elaborate more on what you are wanting to reload I know there are plenty of helpful people here on INGO who can get you where you want to be. While the final decision on powders, bullets, and primers will be yours to make but the people here can give you experienced outlooks on what they have used.

 

[lovemywoods]

As noted, some research and reading up front is important.

Another suggestion I'll offer: Spend some time with someone who is a reloader and look over their bench and gear. Start to see what the different parts and tools do. Have the reloader take you through the basic steps common to all reloading.

An hour or two with some hands-on experience will move you ahead in your reloading confidence enormously!

I can't tell where you're located. If you are in central Indiana, I can recommend the beginners reloading class held by ProFire Arms, an INGO advertiser.

 

[Chefcook]

To answer your question, yes, every powder will burn differently. Don't just stop completely and buy factory ammo. That's not the answer and I know it's not what you want to do. Buy a reloading manual and read about the powders and that will tell you what you need to know. Don't reload anything until you know what you need and what you are doing. Making a mistake in a reloading process can cause serious injury and possibly death.

Some powders are rifle powders, some are pistol powders, and some are shotshell powders. Each burn in their own way to benefit the type of round you are shooting.

If you elaborate more on what you are wanting to reload I know there are plenty of helpful people here on INGO who can get you where you want to be. While the final decision on powders, bullets, and primers will be yours to make but the people here can give you experienced outlooks on what they have used.

Yea this ^ get some instruction or read up on the proper powders and equipment. There are many many different powders available some rifle powders are for big bore rounds while others are more suited to smaller calibers like 5.56 other powders like Blue Dot are for pistol or shotgun while others are specifically for either shotgun or pistol, some are better for large bore pistols and others for smaller rounds like 9mm and .380 auto. If your just getting started you definitely need to learn some things first. Using the wrong powder could cost you a hand or an eye or your life...

 

[Aszerigan]

There are numerous different types of powders -

Powders for light handgun, medium handgun, heavy handgun, magnum handgun, etc. Repeat this for rifles.

The major difference in the powders is the burn rates. You want a much faster burning powder for pistols and shotguns, and a slower, more gradually burning powder for rifles. Although all powder burns nearly instantaneously to the human eye (when under compression, like in a round of ammunition), the burn rates vary significantly.

Also, different types of powder react differently when burned. Flake powder like they use in Handguns has much more surface area, so it burns faster. Ball and extruded powder burns from the outside inward, offering a much slower burn and a more gradual pressure curve when ignited in a confined space. (read: in a round of ammunition)

There's a million things to learn - and no one learns all of them. But having a firm concept of this one property of powder is very, very important. Put a rifle powder into a pistol case, and the bullet may fall out of the muzzle. Put a pistol powder into a rifle case, and you're rifle will explode. It's best not to mix these types of powder for any reason at all. Always keep them separate, open and work with ONE type of powder at a time, and always, when in doubt of the powder type, dispose of it. Don't use it. That's just plain dangerous.

 

[bman1962]

Take a reloading class with Aszerigan like I did before I ever started reloading. I learned alot and have called him a couple times I needed information or advice and he will be there for you like he was for me. Best money I spent towards reloading I think.

 

[msd]

There are numerous different types of powders -

Powders for light handgun, medium handgun, heavy handgun, magnum handgun, etc. Repeat this for rifles.

The major difference in the powders is the burn rates. You want a much faster burning powder for pistols and shotguns, and a slower, more gradually burning powder for rifles. Although all powder burns nearly instantaneously to the human eye (when under compression, like in a round of ammunition), the burn rates vary significantly.

Also, different types of powder react differently when burned. Flake powder like they use in Handguns has much more surface area, so it burns faster. Ball and extruded powder burns from the outside inward, offering a much slower burn and a more gradual pressure curve when ignited in a confined space. (read: in a round of ammunition)

There's a million things to learn - and no one learns all of them. But having a firm concept of this one property of powder is very, very important. Put a rifle powder into a pistol case, and the bullet may fall out of the muzzle. Put a pistol powder into a rifle case, and you're rifle will explode. It's best not to mix these types of powder for any reason at all. Always keep them separate, open and work with ONE type of powder at a time, and always, when in doubt of the powder type, dispose of it. Don't use it. That's just plain dangerous.

+1 to Aszerigan and actually to all who posted to help Big J out. Sometimes reloading can become confusing when you're new to it and bad mistakes can happen if you don't have the info or experience thats needed.
To help Big J out I pasted a website that shows powder burn rates.

Big J this chart is from slowest to fastest burn rates of powders.

But please still follow what the reloading manuals show to use in powders.

Powder Burn Rate Comparison Chart @ www.reloadersnest.com

 

[U.S. Patriot]

Before I started myself I asked a lot of questions. The rest I learned from actually getting my hands dirty. If there is a reloading class nearby, I highly suggest you attend. There are a lot of powders on the market. I myself went with TiteGroup for my 9mm loads. I heard a lot of good things about it and I can get it locally at a good price. Sometimes it takes experimenting to find what works for your specific loads. One reason I bought only a lb. of powder to begin with.

 

[billybob44]

All good answers to you "J"--EXCEPT--

J, welcome to the joy of hand loading your own ammo. To me, I enjoy the loading process almost as the shooting. HA..
All great words of wisdom so far posted to you, especially the loading class held by Andrew at ProFire Arms&Supply.
IMO the only difference of opinion that I have is on the subject of a new hand loader+use of TiteGroup powder.
TiteGroup is a VERY fast burning powder (so is Bullseye). In other words, it takes a VERY small amount of powder for each load. Probably the biggest (Read MOST unsafe) mistake a new hand loader can make is double charging a case with powder. In some cases, it is possible to TRIPPLE charge a case with TiteGroup. A double charge of TiteGroup can damage a gun+shooter. A triple charge of TiteGroup WILL damage a gun/shooter!!
It is my suggestion for new hand loaders to start with a slower burning powder, like Unique,HS-6, 2400, etc.
In your load manual (That I know you have bought BEFORE you started loading), look for the powder charges that start with the most grain weight. These powders will fill the case usually enough that if you DO double charge a case, you will notice it.
Before I get slammed: YES, I do use TiteGroup powder in a lot of my loads, it is a very good powder. And YES, I have pulled a press handle a few times...Bill.

 

[kboom524]

Alot of good advice here. Best advice is get a couple reloading manuals and read up on it. Pick a caliber to start with and study what powders your manual suggests for it. One very good book that I use anytime I am looking into a new powder is Propellant Profiles.

Amazon.com: Propellant Profiles (Revised and Expanded) (9781879356771): Wolfe Publishing, Wolfe Publishing Company: Books

Main thing is if you are not sure ask. When I started reloading, a very long time ago, there was no internet and no one was offering classes. I just bought my equipment and a couple manuals and taught myself. Now a days you have the internet to help you learn, there are alot of knowledgeable people here on INGO. There people offering classes. Aszerigan's classes come highly recommended by people on here who have taken his classes and any of his comments that I have read on here are always very good advice. Take advantage of any of these resources that you can. Just start slow, take your time with every step, and enjoy yourself.

And by the way to the Reloading family.

 

[Que]

There is a lot of great advice given here. But, just in case the OP is someone like myself, who has never read a reloading manual -- and I'm not saying anyone should not read a manual -- take a class and learn about the most popular powder and loads for your caliber and stick with it. Or find an INGOer in your area to mentor you. I use Titegroup and Clays for pistol caliber loads, because that is what I used in my class and it works.

I'm more of a hands-on person and I need to see something work before I actually try it.

 

[WoodWizard]

Welcome to the joys of building your own ammo,
A tip from me: Powder makers all put out free reloading books, ask for them when you shop for powder. They cover handgun loads, shotgun, and most rifle loads.

 

[Aszerigan]

Welcome to the joys of building your own ammo,
A tip from me: Powder makers all put out free reloading books, ask for them when you shop for powder. They cover handgun loads, shotgun, and most rifle loads.

Or call the company directly and they'll send them for free.

 

[U.S. Patriot]

J, welcome to the joy of hand loading your own ammo. To me, I enjoy the loading process almost as the shooting. HA..
All great words of wisdom so far posted to you, especially the loading class held by Andrew at ProFire Arms&Supply.
IMO the only difference of opinion that I have is on the subject of a new hand loader+use of TiteGroup powder.
TiteGroup is a VERY fast burning powder (so is Bullseye). In other words, it takes a VERY small amount of powder for each load. Probably the biggest (Read MOST unsafe) mistake a new hand loader can make is double charging a case with powder. In some cases, it is possible to TRIPPLE charge a case with TiteGroup. A double charge of TiteGroup can damage a gun+shooter. A triple charge of TiteGroup WILL damage a gun/shooter!!
It is my suggestion for new hand loaders to start with a slower burning powder, like Unique,HS-6, 2400, etc.
In your load manual (That I know you have bought BEFORE you started loading), look for the powder charges that start with the most grain weight. These powders will fill the case usually enough that if you DO double charge a case, you will notice it.
Before I get slammed: YES, I do use TiteGroup powder in a lot of my loads, it is a very good powder. And YES, I have pulled a press handle a few times...Bill.

Depending on what you are loading it's easy to tell if you have double charged with TiteGroup. I load 4.2 grains for my 9mm loads. It fills slighly more than half a case. I check every case before I seat bulles to double check.

 

[billybob44]

Depending on what you are loading it's easy to tell if you have double charged with TiteGroup. I load 4.2 grains for my 9mm loads. It fills slighly more than half a case. I check every case before I seat bulles to double check.

You're right Pat. The thing is if the New Loader is starting out with .38 Spl. target loads, it would very easy to double charge a case.
With the normal small amount of charge with TiteGroup, it also does not give ANY room for error with a Newbie"s scale readings.
As I said, I do use TiteGroup, with complete satisfaction, I just do not think it is the ideal powder for the beginner..Bill.