Newbie 1911 questions

[Tom Threetoes]

I have wanted a 1911 for some time and today someone offered me what I'm hoping is a good buy on my dream gun. Being a newbie, I need to know if it's as good a deal as I think. It's a used but very nice stainless SA loaded target with hard case, two mags, and plastic goodies for $900. The only flaws I can find is an idiot scratch on the frame from the slide release and the guide rod allen screw is a little boogered. I'll go GI and do away with the full-length rod so that's not a big deal. I didn't take it apart and I wouldn't know what to look for any way. I'm hoping the idiot scratch will polish out. Is there anything else I should check? What say you experts is this a deal or no?

 

[Mgderf]

Calling the Mouse...

 

[88E30M50]

A quick check of gb shows a handful of Springer Loaded model 1911s all going for more than $900. None of those are stainless. Stainless tends to bring more money.

The idiot scratch is not too big a deal on a stainless gun. It's a very forgiving material to make a gun out of

 

[drillsgt]

I have wanted a 1911 for some time and today someone offered me what I'm hoping is a good buy on my dream gun. Being a newbie, I need to know if it's as good a deal as I think. It's a used but very nice stainless SA loaded target with hard case, two mags, and plastic goodies for $900. The only flaws I can find is an idiot scratch on the frame from the slide release and the guide rod allen screw is a little boogered. I'll go GI and do away with the full-length rod so that's not a big deal. I didn't take it apart and I wouldn't know what to look for any way. I'm hoping the idiot scratch will polish out. Is there anything else I should check? What say you experts is this a deal or no?

Tell them there's one on GB right now for 750.00.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/931691841

 

[churchmouse]

$750 is a smoking deal
$900 is at the top of what I would consider a fair deal on that gun.
$800 works.
Idiot scratch will polish out depending on how deep it is. It's called that for good reason.

 

[churchmouse]

I have wanted a 1911 for some time and today someone offered me what I'm hoping is a good buy on my dream gun. Being a newbie, I need to know if it's as good a deal as I think. It's a used but very nice stainless SA loaded target with hard case, two mags, and plastic goodies for $900. The only flaws I can find is an idiot scratch on the frame from the slide release and the guide rod allen screw is a little boogered. I'll go GI and do away with the full-length rod so that's not a big deal. I didn't take it apart and I wouldn't know what to look for any way. I'm hoping the idiot scratch will polish out. Is there anything else I should check? What say you experts is this a deal or no?

Why do people want to lose the full length rod. I just do not get that. I used them in every 1911 I had when I found them to be a positive. And yes they are a positive.
The argument that the GI plug has worked since the beginning is true. Yes it "WORKS" but the rod is an improvement on a solid platform.

But hey, don't listen to me. Save the $40 bucks.

 

[Cameramonkey]

As a former 1911 owner I have one bit of advice: Dont cheap out on a 1911. You'll spend more at your gunsmith to make that cheap 1911 work properly. (not personal experience, thank God. Just what I observed here)

 

[indyblue]

Why do people want to lose the full length rod. I just do not get that. I used them in every 1911 I had when I found them to be a positive. And yes they are a positive.
The argument that the GI plug has worked since the beginning is true. Yes it "WORKS" but the rod is an improvement on a solid platform.

But hey, don't listen to me. Save the $40 bucks.

I know there have been threads here about this before, but could you elaborate? I notice it seems to be a slightly controversial subject over on 1911 forum. Supposedly only an advantage for competition with the extra forward weight giving a little more balance and less rise.

I love my SA Stainless TRP with it's FLGR and this pistol is butter smooth, easy to shoot accurately, 100% reliable so far and pretty. Needing to keep a allen wrench handy is only a slight inconvenience. It's never come lose as some have experienced, but when I reassemble it, I do take care to clean the threads of any lubricants and give it a good tightening. I wouldn't change a thing.

I am happy to read & learn.

 

[Squid556]

You'll want to look at the feed ramp area to see if someone has been having issues and tried to polish the ramp.

Id say a gun like that is worth around 8 to 9. Wouldn't pay more than 9.

 

[Amishman44]

As a former 1911 owner I have one bit of advice: Dont cheap out on a 1911. You'll spend more at your gunsmith to make that cheap 1911 work properly. (not personal experience, thank God. Just what I observed here)

Exactly...do a 1911 right, not cheap! You'll be glad in the long run!

 

[Amishman44]

You'll want to look at the feed ramp area to see if someone has been having issues and tried to polish the ramp.
I'd say a gun like that is worth around 8 to 9. Wouldn't pay more than 9.

Bingo...the feed-ramp area on a 1911 is a key part of its overall function...if that area is not marked up, scratched, etc...at the minimum, there's less headaches for you in the future.
Idiot mark is a least a $50 decrease in value...point it out with something like, "Hmmm...looks like someone scratched it here!"

 

[Refrigerator27]

In my non important opinion, there’s no such thing as a bad deal when buying your dream gun. Enjoy it!

 

[Squid556]

In my non important opinion, there’s no such thing as a bad deal when buying your dream gun. Enjoy it!

Surprising wisdom from an unlikely kitchen appliance! Haha

But he’s right, if you find a dream gun and it’s in good shape, can’t go wrong. A lot of times I hear about people finding rare items, sleeping on it, then going back and never seeing it again.

 

[Tom Threetoes]

Thanks everyone, I was hoping I'd get several responses to help me decide. The gun belongs to my brother so I'm not inclined to haggle much on price. As far as removing the scratches I would probably try some Flitz polish and a pencil eraser.

 

[BE Mike]

Thanks everyone, I was hoping I'd get several responses to help me decide. The gun belongs to my brother so I'm not inclined to haggle much on price. As far as removing the scratches I would probably try some Flitz polish and a pencil eraser.

Those stainless SA 1911's have a brushed finish. To match it, I wouldn't use Flitz or any polish. Some Scotch Brite pads can pretty well match the brushed finish. Full length guide rods only add weight and make disassembly more complicated. They don't improve accuracy or function.

 

[Robert Richardson]

600 or finer grit sandpaper and some light tapping, small hammer or heavy brass punch, on the scratch area will hide the scratch. Done rub or buff on it, it will come out as shiny spot compared to the matte stainless finish. Take your time and go slow.

 

[Frontiersman]

Been shooting a plain GI model for about 40 years or so. I've never had a problem with the stock equipment. But, I've only put a few thousand rounds through it. Not a competition shooter.

Most of the time, you can work a scratch out of SS. What grit to use, etc. depends completely on the finish or desired finish.

Price is so dependent on location and vary greatly. I don't feel 900 is out of line for an asking price. 750 is not a low ball and would be the comfortable, I should be able to resale it if I don't like it price.

 

[drillsgt]

Those stainless SA 1911's have a brushed finish. To match it, I wouldn't use Flitz or any polish. Some Scotch Brite pads can pretty well match the brushed finish. Full length guide rods only add weight and make disassembly more complicated. They don't improve accuracy or function.

This advice is good, just get some scotch brite pads, I usually use the maroon or light gray and go with the grain, if the scratch is really deep you might have to hit it with some sandpaper first like 300 grit.

 

[Frontiersman]

This advice is good, just get some scotch brite pads, I usually use the maroon or light gray and go with the grain, if the scratch is really deep you might have to hit it with some sandpaper first like 300 grit.

Even a green one will make a nice finish on something rugged, like a ruger single six. I've made some really beat up looking stainless guns look good again using nothing but scotch bright pads.

Finish it off with some flitz and a soft cloth and you can mimic nickel

 

[Tom Threetoes]

Thanks for the scotch brite tip, the scratches are not deep I can't feel them with my finger nail.