Newbie reload question

[sgreen3]

Its said that everything was included in the box to start reloading, seems to me that was a little mis-leading.

An about the powder dispencer, what adapter do I need to be able to use it? An whats this about resizing while you fill?

 

[Menace67]

You don't have to crimp the .223 i highly recommend taking a reloading class. I took Andrews and I now reload with confidence knowing I am doing the right thing.

 

[sgreen3]

Yea I need to, Just wish I wasnt in college 4 days a week, lol . Are there any classes in the southern indiana area?

Also after doing some reading, it appears that a few guys dont like to use the Auto-Disk Powder Measure that comes with it for various reasons, How do you guys load your powder?

 

[NWIeng]

Also after doing some reading, it appears that a few guys dont like to use the Auto-Disk Powder Measure that comes with it for various reasons, How do you guys load your powder?

The auto-disk powder measure serves it's purpose. Personally, I use the auto-disks for both 9mm and 223 and work well, but at the same time I know their limitations.

If you've read the instructions for the disks, you'll find that the spacing between a certain disk size (or combination of sizes in the case of 223, which you need 2 disks stacked one on top of the other) is far from .1 grains as you'd get on a beam or digital scale.

So if you're willing to settle on a powder charge that a set of discs give you, and then sight-in your rifle for said load, then they work great for ease of repeat-ability.

Though as always, verify charges on a beam scale. You will also find that the actual charge being spit out by the disks are not precisely what Lee says they are. But again, find what they're actually spitting out and if you work up the load for it, then you're set.

All in all, I'd give a +1 for the auto-disk system for creating plinking-accuracy ammo, which for me is all I need.

 

[sgreen3]

The auto-disk powder measure serves it's purpose. Personally, I use the auto-disks for both 9mm and 223 and work well, but at the same time I know their limitations.

If you've read the instructions for the disks, you'll find that the spacing between a certain disk size (or combination of sizes in the case of 223, which you need 2 disks stacked one on top of the other) is far from .1 grains as you'd get on a beam or digital scale.

So if you're willing to settle on a powder charge that a set of discs give you, and then sight-in your rifle for said load, then they work great for ease of repeat-ability.

Though as always, verify charges on a beam scale. You will also find that the actual charge being spit out by the disks are not precisely what Lee says they are. But again, find what they're actually spitting out and if you work up the load for it, then you're set.

All in all, I'd give a +1 for the auto-disk system for creating plinking-accuracy ammo, which for me is all I need.

Yea for starters all im wanting is just some plinking ammo. After I get more comfortable with how all this stuff works, Id like to work up some custom stuff for my target rifles. The disks seem simple enough, I have a book that says to start my .223 on the 1.36 opening I belive which is easy enough to put that one on there. But I can even use the measure yet because I dont have anything to attach it to the turret. So I nned to find out what else I need to make that work. But I like the idea behind it being able to jut swap out a turret for a new caliber.

 

[sgreen3]

Oh yea how do you use the chart for the auto-disk. I know i pick which powder i have, then how do I know what number to pick to get the size of disk hole to use?

 

[sgreen3]

Think I may have answered my own question the number in the middle of the chart is the grains your wanting to put into the case then look up an that is the number size of the disk you want to use. Im pretty sure this is the way it works. An u get custome loads from the starting point in the lee loading book I got and should not exceed the maximum number of grains in your custom loads.

 

[sgreen3]

To gain accuracy in a bolt gun, you can just neck size if the ammo is going right back into that firearm. The Lee Factory Crimp Die in rifle calibers, squeezes from the outside in, with a split collet. Very nice for those evil black rifles.

What you need to do is go to the Lee website and watch the videos there. Read the front part of any manual and then re-read it before you start loading.

THEN, you need to give that girl a kiss for getting you started in handloading. It is the best thing she has done for you and you need to realize it!

Oh, by the way, if it were me, I'd marry that smart young lady! She is a keeper!

Yea I watched the videos, and she also got me the Modern Reloading book by Richard Lee, that I have been reading in.

An yea She is the best, she likes guns as much as I do

 

[kludge]

Do you have a reloading manual? If not I suggest Lyman's 49th or ABC's of Reloading.

The "Pro" Auto Disc is better (round hopper) than the Auto Disc (square hopper). If you set up the priming system you will wan the "riser" and you will need the rifle charging die if you want to charge cases on the press or use your press in "auto indexing" mode.

Lee Precision: Powder Measure Accessories
Lee Precision: Rifle Charging Die
Lee Auto-Disk Riser - Natchez Shooters Supplies
Lee Rifle Charging Die - Natchez Shooters Supplies

Whether you prime and charge on the press or not, I recommend you leave the auto indexing parts off for the moment (the twisted square bolt and the square plasic slider) and just use your press in single stage mode until you get the hang of reloading (i.e "batch loading")

BTW the you tube videos for this press are very helpful to understand the process.

The Auto Disc will charge powder through the "powder through expanding die" that comes with pistol die sets. Rifle dies sets don't come with this die, so you would need the charging die to charge cases on the press.

It would be nice if you had a powder measure, but what you have will work OK. (I have a couple "cheap" Lee Perfect Powder Measures, and they work just fine for me.) I also have a powder dribbler that I use for working up loads... it's more accurate for "match" loads and it's easier to get the right amount of powder when working up a load than fiddling with the charging bar/screw/discs, etc. Once the load is where you want it, you can set the powder measure once and load a whole batch.

Yes, "everything" you need to reload might be a little misleading.

 

[sgreen3]

Do you have a reloading manual? My GF got me a big book called Modern Reloading by Richard Lee that has some starting reload data in it, is that what you mean? If not I suggest Lyman's 49th or ABC's of Reloading.

The "Pro" Auto Disc is better (round hopper) than the Auto Disc (square hopper)I have this one. If you set up the priming system you will wan the "riser" and you will need the rifle charging die if you want to charge cases on the press or use your press in "auto indexing" mode.

Lee Precision: Powder Measure Accessories
Lee Precision: Rifle Charging Die
Lee Auto-Disk Riser - Natchez Shooters Supplies
Lee Rifle Charging Die - Natchez Shooters Supplies (is this the one I need?)

Whether you prime and charge on the press or not, I recommend you leave the auto indexing parts off for the moment Good idea already took it off (the twisted square bolt and the square plasic slider) and just use your press in single stage mode until you get the hang of reloading (i.e "batch loading")

BTW the you tube videos for this press are very helpful to understand the process. Recomend any that you like I looked at some but the ones I looked at kind of went a little fast for my likeing an didnt really go in that much depth on the starter type stuff

The Auto Disc will charge powder through the "powder through expanding die" that comes with pistol die sets. Rifle dies sets don't come with this die, so you would need the charging die to charge cases on the press Ok makes sense why I couldnt find what woiuld work cause i have a .223 deluxe kit. But I want to eventually re-load .40S&W, 9mm, .308Win, 7.62x54r

It would be nice if you had a powder measure My kit came with the Lee Saftey Powder Scale, is that what your talking about?, but what you have will work OK. (I have a couple "cheap" Lee Perfect Powder Measures, and they work just fine for me.) I also have a powder dribbler I like the sound of this were do I get one and how does it work? that I use for working up loads... it's more accurate for "match" loads and it's easier to get the right amount of powder when working up a load than fiddling with the charging bar/screw/discs, etc. Once the load is where you want it, you can set the powder measure once and load a whole batch.

Yes, "everything" you need to reload might be a little misleading.

Thanks for your help Kludge

 

[U.S. Patriot]

Oh ok, But shoul I get a FCD for it as well?

If you use a boat tail bullet you should be fine with not crimping. If you use a straight wall bullet, you'll have to flare the case mouth then crimp it.

 

[U.S. Patriot]

Also, check the online data provided by the powder manufacture. I have the newest Lyman manual but it did not have the charge for the bullet weight I'm using.

 

[sgreen3]

Oh ok I see what you saying i think. I guess it wouldnt hurt anything to just crimp them all would it?

 

[kludge]

Do you have a reloading manual? My GF got me a big book called Modern Reloading by Richard Lee that has some starting reload data in it, is that what you mean? If not I suggest Lyman's 49th or ABC's of Reloading.

That will do nicely.

Lee Precision: Powder Measure Accessories
Lee Precision: Rifle Charging Die
Lee Auto-Disk Riser - Natchez Shooters Supplies
Lee Rifle Charging Die - Natchez Shooters Supplies (is this the one I need?)

For .223, yes. For pistol dies you may also need the riser for the powder measure to clear the priming arm. I don't use the priming arm (didn't buy it) I just stick primers one at a time on the priming lever.

Whether you prime and charge on the press or not, I recommend you leave the auto indexing parts off for the moment Good idea already took it off (the twisted square bolt and the square plasic slider) and just use your press in single stage mode until you get the hang of reloading (i.e "batch loading")

BTW the you tube videos for this press are very helpful to understand the process. Recomend any that you like I looked at some but the ones I looked at kind of went a little fast for my likeing an didnt really go in that much depth on the starter type stuff

"Ammosmith" does a pretty good job with his videos.

The Auto Disc will charge powder through the "powder through expanding die" that comes with pistol die sets. Rifle dies sets don't come with this die, so you would need the charging die to charge cases on the press Ok makes sense why I couldnt find what woiuld work cause i have a .223 deluxe kit. But I want to eventually re-load .40S&W, 9mm, .308Win, 7.62x54r

When you get a pistol die set the Auto Disk will mount on top of the "powder through expander die". When you load rilfe, use the charging die. BTW Lee says the charging die will work from .22 Hornet through .308 Win... the 7.62x54 case will be maybe a tad too large.

It would be nice if you had a powder measure My kit came with the Lee Saftey Powder Scale, is that what your talking about?,

No. this one... Lee Perfect Powder Measure - Natchez Shooters Supplies

but what you have will work OK. (I have a couple "cheap" Lee Perfect Powder Measures, and they work just fine for me.) I also have a powder dribbler I like the sound of this were do I get one and how does it work?

Lyman Powder Dribbler - Natchez Shooters Supplies Powder Dribbler

You put some powder in the hopper, turn the knob and powder slowly comes out of the tube. You set up the tube so that it falls into the pan on your scale, and when your charge gets to weight you want you stop.

that I use for working up loads... it's more accurate for "match" loads and it's easier to get the right amount of powder when working up a load than fiddling with the charging bar/screw/discs, etc. Once the load is where you want it, you can set the powder measure once and load a whole batch.

To start I will adjust my powder measure to "throw" a charge that is less than the charge I want, then I add powder with the dribbler, to bring the charge up to the desired amount. I can do this in as many increments of charge weight as I want. Then I can do a "OCW" (optimal charge weight) or "ladder test". (Google)

 

[kludge]

Oh ok I see what you saying i think. I guess it wouldnt hurt anything to just crimp them all would it?

Opinions vary greatly on whether crimping rifle cartridges helps or hurts. But most people agree that if the bullet doesn't have a cannelure, don't crimp it. Hard recoiling rifles and pistols can benefit from a firm crip. Rifles with tubular magazines and rifles used in less than ideal conditions can benefit from a crimp by preventing bullet setback.

 

[sgreen3]

Ok one last thing an I think I have it, For pistol rounds take a different charging die than rifle rounds? I see that you need the rifle charging die for rifle rounds in your list but which is for the powder through expander die? Also Im guessing its probably best if your were going for a real custom load for a target rifle it would probably best best to hand measure everything out on a scale an pur it into each case by hand correct? An would it hurt to use the full length sizing die on all the cases? An I still cant tell which is which between the neck an the full

 

[sgreen3]

Opinions vary greatly on whether crimping rifle cartridges helps or hurts. But most people agree that if the bullet doesn't have a cannelure, don't crimp it. Hard recoiling rifles and pistols can benefit from a firm crip. Rifles with tubular magazines and rifles used in less than ideal conditions can benefit from a crimp by preventing bullet setback.

Oh ok I got it, That does make sense

 

[U.S. Patriot]

Ok one last thing an I think I have it, For pistol rounds take a different charging die than rifle rounds? I see that you need the rifle charging die for rifle rounds in your list but which is for the powder through expander die? Also I'm guessing its probably best if your were going for a real custom load for a target rifle it would probably best best to hand measure everything out on a scale an pour it into each case by hand correct? An would it hurt to use the full length sizing die on all the cases? An I still cant tell which is which between the neck an the full

If you order a 4 die pistol set, It will come with a powder through expanding die. When you press the case into the die it expands the mouth of the case. If not the bullet would have to be forced into the case and you would damage the case. The die is open at the top so you can place a funnel to funnel your charge into the case. That's why pistol bullets need crimped. If not the bullet would set back when chambered and could cause over pressure.

When you start out, adjust your seating die to the depth you are wanting to achieve for the appropriate cartridge OAL. Take a case with no primer or charge and seat a bullet. Then get your crimp die set up. Start with a light crimp at first. Then chamber the round 5 times or so. Once you do that, check the bullet for set back. Keep doing that until you are satisfied.

As for loading precession rounds. You can get a good powder trickle for $20, I use a RCBS. That way you can throw your charge light then trickle the rest until you reach your desired charge. I do not use a powder measure myself because it's not very consistent. I highly recommend you get a beam scale. You should always check to make sure your charges are within the recommended safe limits. I personally weigh every charge.

How far South are you? As I would be willing to help you with getting started reloading pistol ammo.

 

[sgreen3]

Also why is it when one of the die's is used it makes it to were the bullet will fall into the case, am I doing something wrong with it?

 

[sgreen3]

If you order a 4 die pistol set, It will come with a powder through expanding die. When you press the case into the die it expands the mouth of the case. If not the bullet would have to be forced into the case and you would damage the case. The die is open at the top so you can place a funnel to funnel your charge into the case. That's why pistol bullets need crimped. If not the bullet would set back when chambered and could cause over pressure.

When you start out, adjust your seating die to the depth you are wanting to achieve for the appropriate cartridge OAL. Take a case with no primer or charge and seat a bullet. Then get your crimp die set up. Start with a light crimp at first. Then chamber the round 5 times or so. Once you do that, check the bullet for set back. Keep doing that until you are satisfied.

As for loading precession rounds. You can get a good powder trickle for $20, I use a RCBS. That way you can throw your charge light then trickle the rest until you reach your desired charge. I do not use a powder measure myself because it's not very consistent. I highly recommend you get a beam scale A Lee Saftey Powder Scale came in my kit. You should always check to make sure your charges are within the recommended safe limits. I personally weigh every charge.

How far South are you? As I would be willing to help you with getting started reloading pistol ammo.

Thanks that would be greatly appreciated, Im in Scottsburg