Just found this. May be perfectNOT an expert, but if it is a relatively small amount I would scrap it & buy new. Going to be hard to get paint to stick over the top of paint that is already prone to chipping. May be able to get some of the synthetic quarter round & use paint designed for plastic.
Rhino liningQuestion for the DIYers or pros.
We had stained wood cabinets that were stripped and then repainted. Getting a fair amount of chipping, mainly on the quarter round.
I suspect it's from vacuum/mops mainly.
How can I end up with black quarter-round that is chip resistant? I plan to redo them myself.
I was going to suggest PVC. It's durable, it doesn't warp, rot, or absorb moisture.Just found this. May be perfect
Royal Mouldings 5111 5/8 in. x 5/8 in. x 8 ft. PVC Composite Espresso Quarter Round Molding 0511108075 - The Home Depot
With its striking espresso color, this 8 ft. x 5/8 in. x 5/8 in. Cellular Vinyl Quarter Round Molding can add just the right finishing touch at your floor's edge. Install this quarter round with eitherwww.homedepot.com
If you have any spots with outside corners the PVC breaks pretty easily if snagged on that miter joint.Just found this. May be perfect
Royal Mouldings 5111 5/8 in. x 5/8 in. x 8 ft. PVC Composite Espresso Quarter Round Molding 0511108075 - The Home Depot
With its striking espresso color, this 8 ft. x 5/8 in. x 5/8 in. Cellular Vinyl Quarter Round Molding can add just the right finishing touch at your floor's edge. Install this quarter round with eitherwww.homedepot.com
Maybe your experience has been different, but I've never had PVC break. I've even intentionally tried to break a piece off (1/4" thick) for a clamping spacer, and it wouldn't snap. I had to cut it. PVC is very pliable, and bends, but I doubt it would ever break, just by snagging an edge. JMO and experience.If you have any spots with outside corners the PVC breaks pretty easily if snagged on that miter joint.
If you just want to repaint, scuff it up and use some primer, then repaint, then adding some clear on that would help give it some added protection. Just pick whatever sheen you want, flat, satin etc.
The mitered corners definitely can break if snagged, and it dents pretty easily. I've replaced quite a few pieces usually around islands or peninsula toe kick. I've also replaced a few warped pieces that were above a stove, but it was kind of an unusual use.Maybe your experience has been different, but I've never had PVC break. I've even intentionally tried to break a piece off (1/4" thick) for a clamping spacer, and it wouldn't snap. I had to cut it. PVC is very pliable, and bends, but I doubt it would ever break, just by snagging an edge. JMO and experience.
I do work with PVC quite a bit, but I use sheets.
It's actually recommended to glue any joints. Epoxy works well, or they have a dedicated adhesive.The mitered corners definitely can break if snagged. I've replaced quite a few pieces usually around islands or peninsula toe kick. I've also replaced a few warped pieces that were above a stove, but it was kind of an unusual use.
If I was using it I would make sure to glue the miters and make sure the fit is good.
I'm not saying it's bad stuff, I actually like the stuff. Just giving a heads up.
Yeah I know. A lot of DIY is installed wrong and not clean miters.It's actually recommended to glue any joints. Epoxy works well, or they have a dedicated adhesive.
Over a stove? That would definitely warp; PVC is shaped by heating it. Don't burn it, the fumes are toxic.
Perhaps the ready made trim is a different density/composition than the sheets. If I need trim, I mill it from the sheets.