Pickup Truck - Bed size question

[Libertarian01]

I think (hope) I found a good one for me. Much bigger than I was planning, but the size is great and the miles seem reasonable for age and type of truck.

Link: https://www.evanstoyota.com/auto/us...00-laramie-slt-155-wb-fort-wayne-in/44096166/

Several things concern me I need to look into. First, the passengers side outer tire (it's a dualie) is bald in the middle. This could come from overinflation but there may(?) be a mechanical issue.

There are several rusty pieces underneath, but as a vehicle ignoramus I don't know if it is just cosmetic or a real problem. I will try to post pics.

Finally, there is a thingy in the back I would want to get rid of. Not the box, I like the idea of a box. I'll post that here if I can.



What would I be losing if I removed this thing? It just seems to be holding a spare tire and I sure as heck do NOT want to waste the entire truck bed for one spare tire!

Your thoughts? I wasn't planning on one this big, but I could certainly handle it fine as I drive a small bus for work, plus without that thing it would be great for hauling about anything.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[Libertarian01]

Here were a few of the rusty parts from underneath.

 

[Rookie]

That thingy is a fifth wheel hitch.

 

[Libertarian01]

That thingy is a fifth wheel hitch.

Thank you! Can it be easily removed?

 

[boogieman]

The fifth wheel hitch just bolts in. What you need to consider is that truck has 181,000 miles on in and with the hitch means that it has been pulling a bigger trailer with it. I would have someone really check out the engine and make sure it isn't worn out to much. If only one of the dual tires is bald I would equate it to someone running that one tire flat. What happens is the other tire takes the pressure from the road and the second tire just kind of spins and doesn't make good contact which causes it to loose rubber. The rust I wouldn't worry to much about if none of the parts are damaged. Where you will have problems in if you have to start replacing parts. Rusted parts don't like to come loose.

 

[long coat]

From the second pic you posted, the one showing the frame by the rear axle.

THE BRACKETS FOR THAT HITCH ARE GONE, DON'T TOW ANYTHING WITH THAT HITCH.

There should be 4 brackets, 2 on each side, 1 under each side front and rear. Bolted to the rail in the bed and bolted to the frame. The second pic looks like the head was cut off the bolts and the bracket removed.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

Unless you're going to tow a heavy trailer, why would you go for a 3500 dually? That's like buying a sledge hammer to crack walnuts. It's going to ride like a buckboard when unloaded, you're going to pay more than a similar 1500 that'll do everything you want to do, maintenance will be more expensive (you didn't want a diesel because of maintenance costs but you want a dually with a V10?) That's also not a crew cab, which you said you wanted.

You do you, but I'd not spend $6k on a 22 year old truck with nearly 200k miles and indications it's been towing heavy for a good portion of that.

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/1D7HU18DX4S636283 is $2k cheaper, less miles, 6 years newer, and has a cab you can actually get people in and out of.

https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/1GCEK19T74E348499 is $1k cheaper, looks pretty straight from the photos and has probably had an easier life, and is 6 years newer.

Not recommending either truck, just something popping up with a quick search of your area for comparison.

Whatever you do, but especially with an obvious tow vehicle, pay a 3rd party mechanic to inspect it and see what "delayed maintenance" it's going to require. Trucks that old and with that many miles, purchase price is just the entry cost, it's not the total cost.

 

[long coat]

Why is the front drive shaft in the bed?
Transfer case problems?

 

[ditcherman]

Tundra guy here; and come from a long history of owning and using a lot of trucks in a hard way. Sorry I'm late to the party, BTW, but wanted to throw my 2 cents in. Most notable from a daily driver standpoint is an 02 F350 crew cab diesel 6 speed long bed and it's a big truck. Wanted to move to something lighter/more agile in the mud and had always wanted a Tundra so tried one out a few years ago, the crew cab is the absolute best on the market, the only thing comparable imo is Dodges mega cab, and that's more for storage than creature comfort. Anyway, the Tundra crew cab is only available with a 5.5' bed. My friends told me I should have bought a Honda Ridgeline. I told my accountant I bought it, and he informed me that what I bought the IRS does not consider a truck for tax deduction purposes. I don't know which insult hurt worse.

Anyway, moving from 8' beds to the 5.5 took some serious adjustment, and I'm glad I still have a Dodge cummins dually around, but I assure you I can haul 2 fridges even with my diesel tank in the bed, and when the the help climbs in the truck they will way wow guaranteed and ride in comfort. I will put my 07 Tundra up against any regular F250 for towing purposes. (I say regular because somehow I ended up with a F250 with ton springs and axles, the new camper special I guess)
If initial budget is a concern the Tundra might not make the list, although just like all Japanese cars I believe they make up for it in holding their value.

I wouldn't buy an 8' bed just because I had to haul 2 fridges.

Edit to add, relative to the tow info above: when I considered my 07 purchase I compared it to what Ford and Chevy ratings were with their half tons, one of the biggest complaints from Tundra owners is the no changes since 07, while the big three have continued to push their capabilities up.

 

[ditcherman]

I think (hope) I found a good one for me. Much bigger than I was planning, but the size is great and the miles seem reasonable for age and type of truck.

Link: https://www.evanstoyota.com/auto/us...00-laramie-slt-155-wb-fort-wayne-in/44096166/

Several things concern me I need to look into. First, the passengers side outer tire (it's a dualie) is bald in the middle. This could come from overinflation but there may(?) be a mechanical issue.

There are several rusty pieces underneath, but as a vehicle ignoramus I don't know if it is just cosmetic or a real problem. I will try to post pics.

Finally, there is a thingy in the back I would want to get rid of. Not the box, I like the idea of a box. I'll post that here if I can.

View attachment 87354

What would I be losing if I removed this thing? It just seems to be holding a spare tire and I sure as heck do NOT want to waste the entire truck bed for one spare tire!

Your thoughts? I wasn't planning on one this big, but I could certainly handle it fine as I drive a small bus for work, plus without that thing it would be great for hauling about anything.

Thanks,

Doug

Not to sound mean, but from the questions you're asking I'm not sure thats the truck for you. Resist the initial urge, and really look into that to see if it's a "project" or something you can use. Some people can get away with using baling wire to keep something together and working for a long time, and some people who ask about "rusty pieces" are preparing to hand their firstborn to the first unscrupulous mechanic that hears them use those words. Once again, no offense intended, we all have our own talents.

 

[foszoe]

My thinking, most others will vary. My POV considering you said this is for work on YOUR property and will be mostly driven locally. (When I say haul, I am talking payload not towing)

1. If it's for property usage, I would throw out the crew cab unless you have a crew. You say people but how many we talking? 3 in a bench for local runs is not a horrible thing. Besides, try parking a crew cab with a long bed If you go dually, try going through some drive thrus. those are things to think about. Crew cab with a long bed, nice for more people and/or hauling stuff, can stink for convenience in town. Consider an extended cab with full bed, still haul people on short runs, less hassle in town and extra inside storage.

2. Long bed. ABSOLUTELY. anything a 6.5 can do a 8 can do better. That said, you didn't say anything about 1/2, 3/4, 1 ton. IF hauling dirt and gravel, get the 350(0). You don't need great ride quality empty. That is if you are getting it primarily to haul stuff around, you want a truck meant to haul stuff around. IF you go with a 6.5 OR a 1/2 ton then I would DEFINITELY want a tow package to pull a wagon carrying the stuff the truck bed can't handle.

3. Tow package, just pulling a mower shouldn't strain the truck. Tow package up front usually cheaper than paying to add it on later. As others noted it is not just putting on a brake/hitch.

4. Definitely want 4 wheel drive for a property truck. In fact I assumed you didn't have a tractor/wagon on this property because For my range project, I used my tractor/wagon. Which is what I usually do on property. Truck just gets materials home.

5. Gas/Diesel. For what you want Gas is great.

Where I am coming from. Occasional Truck user not a mechanic or enthusiast. I have used my Trucks mostly as property trucks but now plan some long camping trips out west.

I have a 1996 Ford 350 Gas. I used it to tow a popup camper and haul all sorts of stuff for the property. It never left Indiana, and most times stayed within a county of home. Did everything I needed and would probably do everything you need. Got it for $3700 7 years ago. I drove it once a month or so.

Last year bought a 5th wheel camper and the 96 couldn't tow it so I bought a 2016 F 350 Extended cab 4WD XLT with Tow and some other extra packages. It has more bells and whistles then my bought new 2006 top line accord model with 370,000 miles that I still drive (yes am the type to drive them into the dirt).

The 2016 was Diesel and ran around $35,000. A comparable gas truck should be in the $25k range. I don't know your price range but that should give you some boundaries. Have put 6K on it in a year.

I buy Fords as you can tell, so specifically if you buy a ford, I would go with a 2009/10 or later. It was in those years that the towing and payload capacities started going way up. Also around those times Ford introduced an option on the front axle that became standard one or two years later that really decreased the turning radius (called fat boy or big boy). Will help tremendously maneuvering around in town/parking lots.

I have needed a pickup truck for property out in the country for several years. Finances have held me off. Things are looking a bit better and I am now shopping online.

I started with five (5) must haves:

#1) It must be a crew cab. I don't want to need to haul stuff and people and not be able to get the people.
#2) It must be a long bed. When I want to haul something big like a refrigerator or lots of dirt I want to really be able to haul it.
#3) It must have a tow package. When I tow my big mower somewhere I don't want to strain the truck too much.
#4) It must be 4 wheel drive. I am going to go through some muddy ground and I've stuck my mower several times. I want 4x4 to minimize the risk.
#5) It must be gas. I've heard diesel, while great, can be very expensive to work on.

I've thrown out the "must have" for the tow package. I want it, but in thinking about it I won't tow too much so while I'd get a truck with over without, I'm not sticking to it.

I'm now waffling on the requirement for a long bed. It is a royal pain to find a truck that is both crew cab AND long bed. When I am talking about a long bed I mean 8'. From my reading a "regular" size bed is 6'5".

So I just thought I'd ask: For those of you who do use a pickup truck to haul stuff in the back is it significantly better to hold out for a long bed or does a regular bed do 95% of the time?

One of the projects I want to do is make my own shooting range. I'll use some railroad ties. The should be able to be secured in the back of a 6'5" bed. I'll come up with other projects over time, but I'm finding it so hard I'll seek advice from ya'll that use these vehicles every day. My budget is very limited so I can't order a new one to specs.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks for the help,

Doug

 

[foszoe]

Doug,

After reading the rest of the thread and based on my limited knowledge of your situation, I just wanted to offer something to think about.

Perhaps your money would be better spend buying a compact utility tractor and a trailer to go with it? For working on your property, clearing trees, cutting firewood, hauling railroad ties.....and being prepared for the future like clearing snow from drives, spreading gravel whatever else. That bucket makes a helluva wheel barrow. When it comes time to mow down the range area, a rotary cutter on a rear PTO is a god send!

Rent a truck for a day to move 2 refrigerators. See about having railroad ties delivered or rent a truck for a day for that task also.

Since you have acreage, I have gravel delivered by the triple axle load for my driveway which is fairly long then use the tractor to spread the gravel. I played/worked around my acres with my tractor/wagon combo for 6 years before buying the 1996 F-350 and never NEEDED a truck. In fact, if I would have had a truck and NOT the tractor, I would have accomplished a LOT less. Except for the refrigerators, I did everything you mention.

 

[edporch]

I wouldn't have anything other than an 8 foot bed.
I personally have an extended cab (as opposed to a full crew cab), 8 foot bed, towing package with Duramax diesel and 4WD.

 

[BehindBlueI's]

Why is the front drive shaft in the bed?
Transfer case problems?

Good catch. There's a reason it's on the back "as is" lot.