Problem with my first batch

[Hemingway]

Finally reloaded my first batch today (60 rounds of 25-06).

I took my time, measured everything and was as meticulous as I could be.

However once they were all done, I tried to cycle them through my Remington 700.

About 6 of the 60 are VERY difficult to feed into the chamber. The bolt goes forward but I have to really force it the bolt handle to go down.

The overal length is under the maximum and is the same as the others that do work.

Some of the rounds feed easier than others but these 6 are difficult.

What is wrong?

 

[rimfire_crazed]

You likely did not adjust your sizing die properly, or it moved in the press as you were working your way through the batch. When I'm loading for a new caliber, i always FL size the brass, and ensure that it chambers before i move on to charging and bullet seating.

I would probably pull everything, and resize - probably crank your sizing die down another quarter of a turn.

Don't forget you'll be decapping live primers so either fire them or be very careful when resizing.

We all make mistakes. I just necksized 20 pieces of belted magnum brass and only half of it chambers. I need to do the exact same thing. (and switch back to the FL die)

 

[Aszerigan]

I can think of three possible things:

First, the decapping / resizing die wasn't set to the proper depth. This is the most likely culprit.

Second - the 25-06 fired from a bolt gun can indent the case mouth to the point that it raises a ridge around the mouth. You'll need to chamfer this off to ensure they go into the chamber properly.

Third - when you're seating the bullets, parts of the copper jacket can be sheared off by the case mouth if its not chamfered on the inside. I recommend doing this as it makes seating the bullets significantly less likely to sheer the exteriors.

If you don't have a case gauge, get one. I highly recommend having a case gauge for every round that you reload. They're $25 per, but Wilson makes a good one for the 25-06. I have one if you'd like to check your rounds. It will tell you if the shoulder is set back far enough - the most common reason for rounds to not chamber in a bolt gun.

 

[Chefcook]

Brass stretches when you shoot and re-size it trim your cases to the proper length.

 

[billybob44]

Good to see you got started!!

As has been said--you have a sizing problem-MOST-likely. Hem., take the 6 that are tight pull the bullets+save the powder. Whatever your size die is set at, from previous cased, tighten down deeper into the press 1/8 of a turn at a time, until you can close the bolt of your 700 with normal ease. It may take a time or two of turning down the size die until you get it right. When you get it right lock down the set screw of your die lock ring.
This should be the proper adjustment from now on for YOUR 700 chamber.
If you set up your size die to just touch the shell holder (with NO case in it) in the up position of the ram, you probably will turn in your size die 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn more.
Let me know how it works out..Bill.

 

[Yeah]

It could also be that your seater moved, or isn't repeatable, and the resistance is coming from your having to drive the bullet into the lands.

Are the bullets of the 6 engraved by the lands?

 

[Hemingway]

I can think of three possible things:

First, the decapping / resizing die wasn't set to the proper depth. This is the most likely culprit.

Second - the 25-06 fired from a bolt gun can indent the case mouth to the point that it raises a ridge around the mouth. You'll need to chamfer this off to ensure they go into the chamber properly.

Third - when you're seating the bullets, parts of the copper jacket can be sheared off by the case mouth if its not chamfered on the inside. I recommend doing this as it makes seating the bullets significantly less likely to sheer the exteriors.

If you don't have a case gauge, get one. I highly recommend having a case gauge for every round that you reload. They're $25 per, but Wilson makes a good one for the 25-06. I have one if you'd like to check your rounds. It will tell you if the shoulder is set back far enough - the most common reason for rounds to not chamber in a bolt gun.

I chamfered the mouth thanks to Bill selling me some tools today

I will get with you this week and check these things.

Brass stretches when you shoot and re-size it trim your cases to the proper length.

The case length is to spec.

As has been said--you have a sizing problem-MOST-likely. Hem., take the 6 that are tight pull the bullets+save the powder. Whatever your size die is set at, from previous cased, tighten down deeper into the press 1/8 of a turn at a time, until you can close the bolt of your 700 with normal ease. It may take a time or two of turning down the size die until you get it right. When you get it right lock down the set screw of your die lock ring.
This should be the proper adjustment from now on for YOUR 700 chamber.
If you set up your size die to just touch the shell holder (with NO case in it) in the up position of the ram, you probably will turn in your size die 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn more.
Let me know how it works out..Bill.

Thanks for the time and advice today, Bill. I appreciate the help. Guys, Bill is a great guy!!

It could also be that your seater moved, or isn't repeatable, and the resistance is coming from your having to drive the bullet into the lands.

Are the bullets of the 6 engraved by the lands?

I'm not sure I understand the first part, but I did check the bullets closely (and the case) to see if there were any discernible marks on anything from inside the chamber--there aren't.



I should say that the bullets WILL go in and the handle of the bolt WILL go down, but it is difficult. For my information, is it unsafe to fire if the case hasn't been resized properly?

Thanks for all the help, guys. I need it

 

[JB75]

get a lee foctory crimp die it made the chambering of rounds easyer on my 220 swift. Not alot fo crimp is needed and midway has a lee crimp die for 11.99

 

[billybob44]

For my information, is it unsafe to fire if the case hasn't been resized properl

Probably no one here will tell you that it is safe to fire an extremely tight round. It has been done before though, by most of us???Bill.

 

[billybob44]

get a lee foctory crimp die it made the chambering of rounds easyer on my 220 swift. Not alot fo crimp is needed and midway has a lee crimp die for 11.99

You should need NO crimp on a 25-06 load in a bolt gun---Or for that matter, a 220 Swift bolt gun...Bill.

 

[msd]

I usually check 1 every 10-20 rds, when I resize in my 25-06 or for that matter any of my bolt guns

 

[jlm223]

Don't forget you'll be decapping live primers so either fire them or be very careful when resizing.

Can the primers be reused?

 

[shooter1054]

As said above. Also check your crimp. If you over crimp, the die may buldge out the shoulder of the case. I have done this. It is difficult to see as it doesn't take much to make it tough to completely chamber.

 

[Aszerigan]

You should need NO crimp on a 25-06 load in a bolt gun---Or for that matter, a 220 Swift bolt gun...Bill.

I'll second Bill on this one.

 

[Aszerigan]

Can the primers be reused?

As long as the anvil isn't damaged (which it shouldn't be), then yes. Primers are very resilient. It takes ALOT of force to detonate one. Use caution, but don't be afraid to decap live primers.

 

[indymadcaster]

full length resize!!!!! adjust the die so the shell holder just Kisses the bottom of the die
use case lube or lanolin dissolved in 95-99% alcohol I bet its a simple die adjustment use a bullet puller put the powder back in the CORRECT can and pull your decap pin out and resize those 6 or so start over then you will not even lose the primer indymadcaster

 

[indymadcaster]

crimping is an individual choice I do on certain calibers I.E. semi auto or lever gun
not so much in bolt guns but it has fixed vertical stringing in several loads ...... again it not science nor art its both

 

[mertbl]

You should be able to pull your decapping pin from your die and leave the primer in place.

 

[45fan]

You should be able to pull your decapping pin from your die and leave the primer in place.

Beat me to it. If you find yourself needing to resize loaded ammo, you can save having to deprime live primers by removing the decapping pin. This will also save having to catch, find, inspect, and reseat the primers that are already in the case. When I load for my bolt gun, typically I work up that load a few at a time, and only load quantity after I have tested it extensively. For ease of setting up the dies each time, I set up a dummy round that isnt primed, but the bullet is seated and crimped just as a live round would be, and only load a box at a time.

 

[indymadcaster]

IMI used to run 41AE ammo thru a full length sizer with decap assy removed I discovered this from Evan Whildlin I was having accuracy issues with my pin gun in that caliber!
and that made my loads shoot like the factory loads : ) knowing stuff is a wonderful thing