Question about a safe in the garage

[mospeada]

UPDATE: This project is now done, see the info here https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...about_a_safe_in_the_garage-3.html#post2400658

I picked up my new safe today (Cannon 36 gun water/fire resistent) and it'll be staying in the garage (attached, temp controlled). My question: is it wise to bolt it to the cement floor with the understanding that I park my car in the garage during the winter months and melting snow/slush gets on the floor and could come into contact with the safe?

I've thought about a platform, but that brings about possible problems with securing it properly to the floor and what sort of material the platform should be. I've also thought of a barrier to protect it from water/chemicals.

Any suggestions? I will not be placing this in the house, it will remain in the garage and if it comes to it, I'm willing to sacrifice the longevity of the safe and simply plan on buying another down the road to replace it.

 

[Mike_Indy]

I'm in the same boat. I'm thinking of putting a layer between the floor and the bottom of the safe. I am thning thru two options...
A thick, heavy plastic that would not be affected by water. The material used by cutting boards. My plan is for a smaller safe. You may face a weight issue with yours on this one. Sample material: Plastic Cutting Boards, Cutting Boards, HDPE Cutting Boards, Cutting Boards, Poly Cutting Boards, Polyethylene Cutting Boards: TAP Plastics

Other idea is to use heavy gauge alum tube in the corners. Still thinking thru this one.

Good luck with your plan. As to bolting it down, more worried about natural disaster like a twister than I am with theft, so far.

 

[clt46910]

How about mounting your safe then either building a dam around it with concrete or using a caulking compound to keep water from getting under it?

 

[Drail]

You definitely want to get it up off the floor. I would either bolt into two walls in a corner or build a brick or cinder block pad under it with a couple of open spaces in the blocks to run bolts through and then bolt into the floor with the biggest bolt anchors you can find. Or both. Inside corners are good because you can deny thieves the ability to use a crowbar on the side of the door that swings out. If they can pull it away from the wall and tip it onto its back they can get it open very quickly. Also if you can camouflage it with a fake wall or something so it's not visible to the smash and grab punks. I have built hiding places in past homes by framing out a fake wall covered in pegboard and installing a door covered in pegboard with tools hanging all over it that opens to reveal the hiding place. Use your imagination. A great book full of good ideas is titled Everybody"s Got Something to Hide. The guy who wrote it worked in New York and built hidey holes of every size and desciption for clients.

 

[SSGSAD]

Some kind of "silicone" sealer, should work... you can put an outline where the safe will sit, and then "caulk" around the edge, and use your finger, or spoon, whatever you want to "shape" the seal .....

 

[Drail]

Sealing it to the floor will only trap moisture under it if the floor ever sweats. It needs to be up off of the concrete with some venting to allow moisture to escape. I have seen safes that were mounted and caulked to a cement floor. The bottoms were rusted almost completely out.

 

[SSGSAD]

Sealing it to the floor will only trap moisture under it if the floor ever sweats. It needs to be up off of the concrete with venting to allow moisture to escape.

Good idea, didn't think of that !!!!!

 

[HandK]

What ever you wind up doing don't forget to caulk around the bolt holes with a fireproof caulk, my instructions that came with my safe said that if I do bolt it down it voids the fire safety time, as this will be a place that heat and smoke could enter!

 

[Mackey]

I'd mount it on a treated wood platform that has been firmly secured to the floor to raise it up a couple of inches, paint it to match the safe, then caulk around the bottom edges.

 

[IndianaResident]

Huh...we just got one today, moved it into the basement.

Its bolted directly to the floor, which is concrete with thin carpet on top. I had already caulked the holes so water couldn't rise into it if it floods, but I didn't think about the carpet holding water and rusting.

At least it won't sweat....may have to reconsider though.

 

[42769vette]

just make sure to take it off the pallet it comes on. believe it or not when i was researching a safe companies had to make a point of saying that. the bad thing is if they have to say that it means somone actually left there safe on the pallet and got it stolen. you would think that would go without saying

 

[mospeada]

Thanks guys, I'm going to look into using some 4" cinder blocks I have or buy some thinner stuff like patio tiles to build a base and bolt through that to my floor if I can find bolts long enough. I'm sure it'll be a pain in the butt, but worth it in the end type of thing.

Thanks for the fireproof calk idea, I hadn't thought of that as Cannon has zero information about bolting this safe to the floor, although it comes with bolt holes on the bottom.

 

[Boiled Owl]

Outline the safe on the floor. Take your solid blocks and glue them in place, after they dry you can drill your anchor holes and place the safe without the blocks shifting. Once you have it bolted on top of blocks, how about taking some baseboard or coving of some type and wrapping it around the three sides exposed? Keep dust and debris out.

 

[Boiled Owl]

just make sure to take it off the pallet it comes on. believe it or not when i was researching a safe companies had to make a point of saying that. the bad thing is if they have to say that it means somone actually left there safe on the pallet and got it stolen. you would think that would go without saying

Oops! I've got one like that at the farm! But I keep the keys out of the forklift

 

[mospeada]

Outline the safe on the floor. Take your solid blocks and glue them in place, after they dry you can drill your anchor holes and place the safe without the blocks shifting. Once you have it bolted on top of blocks, how about taking some baseboard or coving of some type and wrapping it around the three sides exposed? Keep dust and debris out.

That's almost exactly what I plan on doing. I'll forgo the baseboard covering to let it get air underneath in case the blocks wick moisture.

 

[Bunnykid68]

Thanks guys, I'm going to look into using some 4" cinder blocks I have or buy some thinner stuff like patio tiles to build a base and bolt through that to my floor if I can find bolts long enough. I'm sure it'll be a pain in the butt, but worth it in the end type of thing.

Thanks for the fireproof calk idea, I hadn't thought of that as Cannon has zero information about bolting this safe to the floor, although it comes with bolt holes on the bottom.

This sounds like s decent idea. I would leave very small gaps in the blocks to allow air flow to help keep moisture from becoming trapped. I would also use a basement sealer on the blocks ahead of time, cinder blocks suck up moisture like a sponge.

 

[Boiled Owl]

This sounds like s decent idea. I would leave very small gaps in the blocks to allow air flow to help keep moisture from becoming trapped. I would also use a basement sealer on the blocks ahead of time, cinder blocks suck up moisture like a sponge.

How about a thin layer of some sort of fiberglass sheet or polymer (they sell something like this a Menards) as a barrier between the blocks and the safe?

If I'm remembering correctly the OP's garage is heated? That should help control the snow melt moisture. Of course there's always the 80º day in February when it's been 35º for weeks prior and you throw the door open and the sweat starts.

 

[Bunnykid68]

How about a thin layer of some sort of fiberglass sheet or polymer (they sell something like this a Menards) as a barrier between the blocks and the safe?

If I'm remembering correctly the OP's garage is heated? That should help control the snow melt moisture. Of course there's always the 80º day in February when it's been 35º for weeks prior and you throw the door open and the sweat starts.

I think that would work. Another thought would be to use some weather stripping to keep the safe off the blocks.

 

[45fan]

Kydex, or a similar plastic that will not wick moister would be the best material to use. making an entire platform probably wouldnt be necessary, only a pad that the bolt will pass through to secure it all to the floor. If you could find some (maybe a local cabinet shop, or samples at a hardware store) solid surfaced such as corian would work also. bolt it to the floor with red head anchors, and it should be good.

 

[Drail]

Trust me, you want to get it at least a couple of inches off of the floor and allow air to circulate under it. If it's above the floor there is no need to try to caulk it. If any moisture gets in under your slab floor it can seep up under the safe. And what Boiled Owl said about that one day you open the garage up and everything starts sweating is true. The floor will sweat the worst and the longest. Been there, done that. If there is an air space under the safe you can place a fan to blow air under it until the temps and humidity levels stabilize. Make sure the hold down bolts are surrounded by block/brick so they cannot be seen or accessed. Setting it in a corner and bolting to two walls and the floor makes it really hard to pull it out and tip it over. Hiding it also helps a lot. If they don't know you have a safe and don't see one they'll move on. There really is no way to make it completely non-stealable if they have enough time. But make it as hard for them as you can. They might give up and go somewhere else. Most theives only spend 10 minutes inside a home.