Really dumb question, from an extreme noob, in regards to reloading 44mag

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  • dieselrealtor

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    There are some detailed instructions online better than I can give, basically taking a soft lead bullet or fishing weight larger than the barrel, driving it through the barrel & measuring to see what your barrel size is.
     

    dak109

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    If you are just loading for the .44 Marlin, you may want to slug the barrel. I recently picked one up & have learned they typically have a larger bore than .429.

    Link to a thread at CB

    New to me 1894S in .44 mag with JM stamp

    Mods, if this is not allowed let me know.

    I highly suggest following this advice. I have a 1974 vintage 1894 with microgroove barrel. It won't shoot worth a plug nickel with .429 bullets. Hornady XTP's come in .430 diameter. Made a huge difference in my gun.
     

    ru44mag

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    For many years I just used WWB 240 grain soft points. They worked great. For some reason my Marlin did not like factory Hornady rounds loaded with the 240 grain XTP. Most inaccurate load for me. When I started loading my own, I used a 240 grain Nosler soft point and 24 grain H110. So far I have made 3 clean kills with that combo. One of the Noslers did separate on the far corner of the deer, just under the skin. I have my eye on a 240 grain Sierra soft point for the future. The only time I ever shot a deer with a 240 grain XTP was out of my old TC inline muzzle loader. It was impressive to say the least. And about 125 yards with 90 grains of Pyrodex.
     

    fullmetaljesus

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    You guys are being super helpful, I'm def going to read this whole thread a few times to soak it all in

    When some of you mention issues you seem to be talking about older 1894's. I bought mine last summer from a cool fellow here who had won it at a c.a.s competition so I'm inclined it's a newer model.

    Does that make much a difference in regards to micro groove or not or .229 vs .230
     

    NKBJ

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    Micro groove can be less friendly to slightly undersized diameter bullets.
    Various forms of "standard" rifling extend a little deeper into the bullet and can therefore be more forgiving.
    But, that said, what works in your piece is what works. Like with barrel harmonics making a specific load shoot smaller groups, what works is what works.

    If you shoot cast in a micro groove barrel you might find that they work good if a little oversized.

    Best wishes and go slowly like you're in a muddy field of land mines.
     

    ru44mag

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    You guys are being super helpful, I'm def going to read this whole thread a few times to soak it all in

    When some of you mention issues you seem to be talking about older 1894's. I bought mine last summer from a cool fellow here who had won it at a c.a.s competition so I'm inclined it's a newer model.

    Does that make much a difference in regards to micro groove or not or .229 vs .230

    If yours is newer it probably does not have the micro groove barrel. When Remington moved all the Marlin stuff around 2010 or 11, they stopped using micro groove barrels. The quality was rather poor for 5 or 6 years, before they completely retooled. The last few years the Marlin rifles are much better quality again. If you search you can find a lot of info if you are interested. I did find this below if you want to date your rifle.

    Just in case someone chose a Remlin/Marlin, the...
     

    G19G26

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    I've shot 22gr of 2400 behind most all my reloads, except the 265s. Reduced load is 2400 behind 265gr soft points is awesome. Black bears don't like them on bit!!
     

    AmmoManAaron

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    Couldn't I just measure it with calipers?

    No, you will not get an accurate measurement. Not that it really matters with a gun this new and using jacketed bullets. Slugging the bore is mostly important just for pre-WWII guns when tolerances were often not held as tightly. If you are using lead bullets, always consider slugging the bore because lead bullets are much more sensitive to proper fit.

    I have to be daft, but I can't find
    .429” diameter 240gr XTP bullets.

    Am I blind and or dumb?

    Some/most jacketed bullets come in .429" but XTPs come as .430". Don't worry about it, you probably have a microgroove barreled gun and .430" is the best for those. Honestly, the .001" doesn't mean much in most cases (other than microgroove barrels) since manufacturing tolerance is often more than that. I've had factory jacketed bullets that were supposed to be .308" that measure as small as .305" and others that were as big as .3085". When you start dealing with small-bore accuracy (various centerfire 22's), or medium-bore extreme accuracy like benchrest, then you can start worrying about .001" with jacketed. Load the .430" XTP for your Marlin and let your test targets tell the story, you may need to play with the powder charge a little bit, but you'll probably be able to meet or exceed factory ammo accuracy without too much trouble.
     

    fullmetaljesus

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    Thank you very much, I didn't think that that .001 would be enough to cause a problem, but I wanted to be sure.
     

    bobjones223

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    Also on a side note. The 1894 has a very slow rate of twist in the bore and will not stabilize a heavier pill. I tend to stay in the 240gr with my 1894 but use 300gr in my T.C. contender.

    So as you start gaining experience and start playing more with tailored rounds keep that in mind.
     
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