Reloading 223 on a Dillon 550

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  • xHwyLT

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Jan 6, 2011
    110
    18
    Monroe
    Just wanted to ask those of you that reload 223 ammo on a Dillon 550, what is the reloading sequence you use. Just a little info, I'm not a new reloader. I have used a Rockchucker press for years to reload rifle ammo, and I have also used a progressive (Dillon Square Deal-B, and the 550B) for years just not for rifle ammo.

    I know that you have to:
    1. Clean the brass and inspect for bad cases
    2. Deprime
    3. Lube and then F/L resize the brass
    4. Remove lube
    5. Trim brass to correct length and deburr cases
    6. Seat new primer
    7. Charge brass with the correct amount of powder.
    8. Seat new bullet
    9. Crimp if needed

    With straight wall pistol cases you can usually skip trimming the cases, and the lubing of the brass, especially with carbide dies. Maybe it's because I have reloading experience, but I can't seem to wrap my head around the skipping of the trimming the brass stage, right after the F/L resizing of the brass that has stopped me from using the Dillon 550B for reloading rifle ammo (specifically 223).

    Any help, suggestions you can give are appreciated. Can someone give me his Dillon 550B reloading sequence? Thanks!
     

    red_zr24x4

    UA#190
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    4   0   0
    Mar 14, 2009
    29,085
    113
    Walkerton
    Here's how I do it,
    After trimming. I leave the depriming die out of station 1, run the case up into the hole, prime on the down stroke like normal, continue loading like normal
     

    xHwyLT

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Jan 6, 2011
    110
    18
    Monroe
    That's what I figured, but I was trying to figure out how to do it without interrupting the reloading sequence on the Dillon. Thanks, I'll try it your way.
     

    Woobie

    Grandmaster
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    Dec 19, 2014
    7,197
    63
    Losantville
    You could trim to the low end of the tolerance, the measure a sample of the brass each time it is fired. You might make it several shots before you need to trim again.

    Caveats:

    1. You would have to keep your brass sorted to keep them all on the same cycle.
    2. Range pickups would have to be kept separate.
    3. If you crimp, you would need to adjust the crimp die.

    May be more hassle than it is worth, but it is a workaround.
     

    Cowboy1629

    Expert
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    1   0   0
    Mar 8, 2010
    1,315
    38
    West Central Indiana
    I don't load much rifle ammo but when I do, this is how I do it...

    1) tumble brass to clean
    2) use tool head that only contains the sizing die
    3) lube brass, resize and deprime
    4) trim brass if needed
    5) tumble brass again to remove lube
    6) install second tool head that contains all the dies except the sizing die
    7) run as a normal progressive loader
     

    DRob

    Grandmaster
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    21   0   0
    Aug 2, 2008
    5,895
    83
    Southside of Indy
    I also use a Rockchucker to size and deprime after tumbling. Then I tumble again to remove the lube. I don't like loading greasy cases. If the brass needs to be trimmed that's my next step and the PITA in the whole process. I prime by hand and don't crimp so I'm only using two stages, powder charging and bullet seating, on the Dillon.
     

    JRPLANE

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    14   0   0
    Jan 8, 2009
    182
    18
    Hagerstown, Indiana
    I have loaded thousands of .223 on a 550, tumble brass, load, No depriming or lubing separately, I tumble after loading to remove lube, dillions lube sparing rocks!! If I did everything separately I would never get to shoot. The dillion produces a consistent sub MOA load out of my AR's, you can't beat 1 pull of the handle 1 round!
     

    trophyhunter

    Sharpshooter
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    6   0   0
    Sep 2, 2008
    686
    18
    South Bend
    Dillons case lube is the secret to making the most out of the press, it's allows you to perform all the loading steps progressively and really saves you some time and hassle this is what they sell and it flat out works to eliminate the lube/size/deprime and cleaning step on a single stage before running it through the 550: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vAL0WtuEQc

    I load 223 progressively for ten firings with room to spare after the initial trimming, order a bottle and try it no reason not to use the press to it's full potential.
     

    VinceU1

    Sharpshooter
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    7   0   0
    Aug 1, 2011
    436
    27
    Indy
    Since I use a lot of range pickups, I always deprime and resize separately from the actual reloading. But since the brass has been in the tumbler I don't trust the necks to be round. I put the sizing die high enough so that the neck gets into the die and the sizing button then expands the neck correctly. Lots of extra steps but I know the rounds will chamber in all my AR's.
     

    ljk

    Master
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    30   0   0
    May 21, 2013
    2,705
    149
    Lee single stage to de-prime, and I haven't trimming brass for ever.

    1:8 Lanolin oil(purified liquid, not gel) and 99% alcohol(only available at Grainger, not Homedepot or Lowes) is your best case lube, and they are cheap.

    IMG_1536.jpg
     

    rvb

    Grandmaster
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    4   0   0
    Jan 14, 2009
    6,396
    63
    IN (a refugee from MD)
    https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/ammunition-reloading/404107-lubing-cases-3.html#post6325565

    I use two toolheads on my 550 for rifle.

    first sizes in station 1 and trims in 3 (I can just take the motor off the die for the trimmer if I don't want to bother trimming).

    I spray the inside of a 1qt ziplog bag w/ about 4 good squirts, toss in 50-100 cases, roll it around, and start sizing. If I want I can then do other messy steps like chamfer/debur. I then toss it in the tumber w/ some old media to get the lube and brass shavings off.

    second tool head I load just like pistol w/ no lube.

    I do use a second sizer on the second tool head that's just not set all the way down... decap pin pushes media out of the flash hole and expander ball sets neck size on inside vs the trim die (last step on 1st toolhead) which sizes the neck on the outside.
     
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