Reloading 40 S&W

[ddenny5]

I am reloading .40 S&W and having some crimp issues. The crimp is .420 and the round is still hard to pull out. I am loading 180 grain rounds. Is there anyone that can offer some help with this issue. Thanks

 

[kludge]

Hard to pull out of what? 0.423" is spec, so .420" should fit.

What does it measure at the widest part? Glocked brass? (Meaning there is a bulge near the base of the case.)

 

[sjstill]

Lee Factory Crimp die. Tight crimp is mandatory on the 180, you do NOT want bullet setback, bad things will happen.

 

[ljk]

the Glock bulge is close to the head, not mouth of the casing.

what bullets, brass, die do you use?

I use X-treme plated bullets, Lee Deluxe 4-die set + Bulge Buster, range pickup brass. after 2500rds, I stopped crimp them, it's just not necessary and no difference on accuracy either. all mine are "hour glass" shaped and they are tight.

maybe too much expanding on the powder die?

 

[maverick5990]

I am reloading .40 S&W and having some crimp issues. The crimp is .420 and the round is still hard to pull out. I am loading 180 grain rounds. Is there anyone that can offer some help with this issue. Thanks

Back off the crimp. You're pushing the brass down instead of tapering.

 

[raptorracer]

I don't understand why so many people focus on such a crimp on .40 s and w. I have loaded this caliber for years and years and have the seat dye and crimp set at minimal. Most say (including myself) that none is needed. Mine are very accurate using 5.2 grams of unique and a cheap indiana bullet company lead 180 grain.

 

[sjstill]

If you ever have a bullet set back into the case due to too little crimp, you'll find out what the big deal is. It ain't pretty.

 

[XtremeVel]

If you ever have a bullet set back into the case due to too little crimp, you'll find out what the big deal is. It ain't pretty.

I'd agree that the crimp can hold a bullet secure if we are talking about a heavy recoiling revolver and the use of a roll crimp... Without a decent roll crimp, the bullet can walk forward under recoil...

Now in the case of .40 S&W, I only crimp enough to ensure positive feeding... For preventing set-back, I make sure of proper case mouth tension... If your tension on the bullet isn't sufficient, no amount of crimp is gonna keep that bullet secure....

 

[Leo]

The Lee die set does a pretty good job. I use the lee bullet seat/ taper crimp die backed out so it only seats the bullet. I use a Dillon taper crimp die to actually close the case mouth. It contacts further down the case body than the Lee. My FS 96 readily eats pretty much anything, but my Para Limited has the chamber a little on the tight side, so I use the Dillon die for everything and do not have problems.

Whatever die, I only close the mouth to .422 or .423". There is plenty of tension on the bullet before the taper crimp, so I really do not squeeze the case mouth all that much.

I forget what brand, but I had one brand of brass that seemed to hang up a lot with 180 gr bullets. Once I figured out the problems were centered around the brass, I culled it out and tossed it in the scrap bucket.

You might want to put an unprimed case and bullet together and smoke it with a candle. Drop it in the chamber and carefully pull it out and see if you can tell where it is rubbing tight. That may help diagnose your problem.

Good Luck

 

[XtremeVel]

I am reloading .40 S&W and having some crimp issues. The crimp is .420 and the round is still hard to pull out.

More info would be helpful... Such as what brand of brass, whether it was ever fired out of something with a not so supported chamber, and what barrel are you loading for... OAL of your load and bullet profile might help too, along with brand of dies used.

Anyhow, I wouldn't suspect it to be a crimp issue... You have more than enough...

Hard to pull out of chamber ? Does the round at least drop in to the proper depth ? If not, look for bulged brass, bad brass, or the possibility of your ogive is in contact with the rifling.

 

[billybob44]

Glock Bulge on range brass??

I have a feeling that your rounds are sticking due to the "Glock Bulge"

Redding G-RX Carbide Base Sizing Die Kit 40 S&W 357 Sig 10mm Auto

^^^All of my .40 S&W and 10MM range brass goes through this die before I load, using the normal process. I have not had any problems with my .40 S&W brass since..Bill.

 

[Slawburger]

Bill,

What are your thoughts on the Redding G-RX vs Lee Resizing Die vs U-die?

My understanding (which could easily be wrong) is:

1) Redding G-RX is normally used offline in a single-stage press prior to running the brass through the progressive press.

2) Lee Resizing gets a little farther down the brass than the other dies (e.g. Dillon) and might solve the problem without adding a step.

3) U-Die undersizes the brass by .001 and eliminates the bulge but might overwork the brass.

4) Guns with a looser chamber can fire slightly "bulged" brass without a problem (smileys and ridges are another matter).

5) Glock Bulge can actually come from many guns (e.g Tanfoglio) with a loose or not fully supported chamber.

6) Replacing the Glock barrel with a Lone Wolf barrel will eliminate creating the bulge in that firearm (but range brass is unknown).

7) Redding G-RX requires sizing lube but the Redding Carbide G-RX is usually good to go without the lube.

 

[Sling10mm]

I don't understand why so many people focus on such a crimp on .40 s and w. I have loaded this caliber for years and years and have the seat dye and crimp set at minimal. Most say (including myself) that none is needed. Mine are very accurate using 5.2 grams of unique and a cheap indiana bullet company lead 180 grain.

That must be one heck of a compressed load in a 40 S&W case...

 

[billybob44]

Redding vs Others??

Bill,

What are your thoughts on the Redding G-RX vs Lee Resizing Die vs U-die?

My understanding (which could easily be wrong) is:

1) Redding G-RX is normally used offline in a single-stage press prior to running the brass through the progressive press.

2) Lee Resizing gets a little farther down the brass than the other dies (e.g. Dillon) and might solve the problem without adding a step.

3) U-Die undersizes the brass by .001 and eliminates the bulge but might overwork the brass.

4) Guns with a looser chamber can fire slightly "bulged" brass without a problem (smileys and ridges are another matter).

5) Glock Bulge can actually come from many guns (e.g Tanfoglio) with a loose or not fully supported chamber.

6) Replacing the Glock barrel with a Lone Wolf barrel will eliminate creating the bulge in that firearm (but range brass is unknown).

7) Redding G-RX requires sizing lube but the Redding Carbide G-RX is usually good to go without the lube.

Slaw, not much help here:

I do not have much Lee products, and do not know what a 'U' die is?
I did start out to remove the "Glock Bulge" with a Lee Factory Crimp Die, stripped down inside, and pushed some .40 S&W through it. Had to make up a 'Pusher'=Too cheap to buy the Factory adapter to push the .40 S&W through..HA HA..
When 'said+done', I saw a Redding GR-X push through die in use (@ ProFire, I think?), and I was sold on it!!

I know it is an additional step, but I do push all of my .40's and 10MM through the GR-X after inital clean, and before loading as normal.

Even though this IS a carbide die, it DOES press my RockChucker somewhat pushing these through, so, I do hit the cases with a light spray of 'One Shot' before I push them through.
Be sure to also buy the adapter to fit the GR-X in order to screw on an empty 2 Liter soda bottle to catch the brass.

Slaw, in general, for ME, I REALLY do NOT enjoy loading a .40 S&W, or a 10MM load, only to have it not fit my case guage, because of a "swelled" case. By doing this step, I KNOW that all these rounds will chamber + be ready to fire--I can, and do take a few handloads back apart, but that is NOT, to ME, one of the Fun parts of handloading...Bill

 

[Slawburger]

Thanks for the input Bill.
I will have to look into the G-RX once my funds are replenished (just bought a case of boolits and a bunch of primers). I don't enjoy pulling apart ammo or having ammo that won't function in any handgun (of the same caliber) that I choose to use it in either. An extra step at the bench is better than a failure to feed at the wrong moment on the range.

 

[Giddaltti]

I use a case length gauge first. Once you check the brass the gauge will let you know if the brass has a bulge. You can also use you barrel, once you resize your brass drop it in your barrel. If its not falling into the barrel then you have a bulge or also check your barrel for proper size.

 

[Fishing-Nut]

SJSTILL cam you explain what the seal is if the bullet moves back?

 

[sjstill]

If a bullet gets pushed back into the case, the pressure spikes and you could wind up blowing up the gun at worst, blowing out the case head at best.

I had my Glock 22 blow up due to bullet set back. The chamber cracked, mag release split in two, mag shot out the bottom. The pistol is still in service after a new barrel was installed.

I've worked at ranges since about 2002,and have seen this happen at least twice; once was my Glock, another was a Kimber 1911 .45.

The same thing can happen if you rechamber a carry round multiple times. The bullet can either get pushed back into the case, or the bullet can basically "fall out" the case mouth, and lodge in the chamber.

 

[Fishing-Nut]

so I have the Lee 3 die set is the roll crimp good enough to be safe?

 

[sjstill]

I believe so. Once you get it set correctly, you're good to go.

I've loaded over 10,000 .40's on a Dillon Square Deal, and if I recall, they use roll crimps. After that one incident, never had any other issues.