Reloading for the M14???

[Cerberus]

As some of you may have noticed from another thread in the long guns section, I am currently considering (strongly at that) getting back into the M14 scene. When I had my old Poly M14 I just shot cheaper surplus thru it, never got to the point of reloading for it. I'm not looking for load data here, but I am wondering just what steps are needed to reliably reload for a rifle that has a reputation of being rough on brass. Do I need to look into extra tooling? Do I need to anneal? What is the average lifespan of both LC and commercial brass? Cause I got plenty of each.

Please no rumors and hearsay, just good solid advice from those who feed the beast with home cooked fodder.

 

[tenring]

It's a PITA to do, but I put an ever so light coat of Johnsons Paste Wax on the cases. The case still grips the chamber walls after being fired, but the wax allows the case to be more easily turned [under 12K pressure] as the bolt unlocks turning the case before ejecting. YMMV

 

[red_zr24x4]

Same as any other rifle load, trim/deburr, prime, load.
The only "extra tooling" you'll need is to remove the primer crimp on the first loading.
I've been loading .30-06 for a Garand for 15yrs. and have never annealed. I load light, and have gotten a many as 10 reloadings per case. you will probably loose them before neck splits happen.
I just started loading for my M1A and see it going the same way.

 

[Lock n Load]

I just started reloading again a few years back, still bought alot of the cheap surplus too.

Anyhow, nothing special for the M1As, and like just about everything that I reload I stay about midrange on the powder charge, most everything shoots well and its easier on the firearms and my pocketbook: a little less powder over 1000s of rounds, brass lasts longer etc....

I have brass that is on its 3rd and 4th reload, still looks good. I use a single stage so every piece of brass is visualed a few times over during the process.

HTH,

 

[HavokCycle]

ive seen a lot of nato brass that wasnt crimped. maybe someone else can verify.

 

[sloughfoot]

Everything you ever needed to know is right here. Be sure to read both articles.

Zediker Publishing

 

[1$Chuck]

It's a PITA to do, but I put an ever so light coat of Johnsons Paste Wax on the cases. The case still grips the chamber walls after being fired, but the wax allows the case to be more easily turned [under 12K pressure] as the bolt unlocks turning the case before ejecting. YMMV

I bet you could tumble the rounds in some media treated with a good dose of Nu-finish car wax and get the same results with a lot less headache.

 

[NWIeng]

I have brass that is on its 3rd and 4th reload, still looks good. I use a single stage so every piece of brass is visualed a few times over during the process.

HTH,

Ditto.

I do my 308 all on single stage, for this very reason.

 

[william]

My M1a is rough on the case rim/head whatever you want to call it. I used Lapua brass but have switched to much cheaper LC once fired so I don;t have to worry about the cases as much. I use 168gr Sierra match kings and Varget. Those articles sloughfoot posted are good I read them before I started