Try this source for reference also. Bear in mind that this is user submitted information and is not necessarily the same data that you would find in a manufacture's manual.
I use Lyman, Lee SE, Hornady, Speer, Hodgdon Annual Manual and online places mentioned above.
I usually use at least two different reference points but prefer three or more.
I have found enough differences in the Max loads listed to make me glad I looked at other sources. I never start at the high range when working up a load but know where it is, is very important.
My go to book is Lyman 49th. I do have a binder of data pulled from Alliant,Western and Hodgdon. I load cast bullets almost exclusively so it has way more recipes than the manufacturer data that is free on-line.
To the OP -- what is it you want to do?
Verify and cross-check load data, or understand internal ballistics and characteristics better?
Your two manuals are fine. Those, plus available online resources are great.
I am also fond of the Hornady manual, and enjoyed flipping through the Lyman, Speer, and Nosler manuals as well.
I like the Sierra manuals the best even though I rarely use their bullets. I have also been impressed by the Hornady manuals. I always recommend checking loads across more than one manual or reputable source, because I found a load for 22-250 in a Speer manual 20 years ago that was 3 grains higher than any other source for the same powder and bullet weight. If I recall correctly it was with their 52gr HP and IMR 3031.
For good reading, i recommend speer # 13, and lyman # 47. Used copies in decent condition should be ok. Some of the differences in the load data from those manuals compared to current ones are, INTERESTING . Almost like a plot twist in a romance novel, heh. The couple i like are some 357mag loads and 30-30 loads , where in the old manuals, the starting loads were the same or more the the new manuals max loads. So obviously, our new guns made with state of the art manufacturing, are weaker than old ones made by hand
At the end of the day, I suspect the best reloading manual you will own is the one you create.
I keep a black and white composition book on my reloading bench with every load I've worked. The kind with the stitched binding, so you can't add or remove pages. I write in ink, on purpose. That way, there is a permanent record of what I'm doing, and why.
Powder and weight, COL, projectile, primer, and a few key case measurements go into the book. Date I ran it, observations after firing, how the recipe functioned in different firearms, and observations on how dirty/clean the load worked plus any observations on my brass as I collect it.
The load data you find in books and online is a starting point...
Its unlikely you will find load data that lines up exactly with what you're doing:
Projectile? Plated/Cast/Jacketed? What weight? Shape?
Primer? Wolf/CCI/Winchester?
Brass? Mixed brass can change your crimp
Case Length, Powder?
Start at the low end of the books. Make small batches. Most of what you create won't function in all your firearms. Accept that, and move forward.
Adjust, and record.
Find what works, but doesn't place anyone in danger.
Inspect your spent brass every time.
Find a load that you like, is safe, and effective. And crank them out!
When you can't get a particular powder, projectile or primer... you get to start over!!!!
I have two editions each of the Speer, Hornady, and the Lyman manuals.
I also have single editions of the Nosler, Hodgdon, and Sierra, as well as the Loadbooks (compilations of load data for a specific caliber) for the .30-06, .45 Colt, and 10mm Auto.
Not plugging here, but I would suggest subscribing to http://www.loaddata.com because it costs about what a single manual goes for, and it includes data from just about every published manual and even many from sources not easily obtained in print.
It's a yearly subscription of just short of $30, and if you know anything about how to use cut-and-paste, you can save the data to a text or Word document and keep it for future reference or for where you're offline.
I use it all the time, and it's nice having the huge amount of data available without having to thumb my way through yet another printed manual big enough that it would break my toe if I were to drop it on my foot.